camber settings
#1
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camber settings
could anyone tell me what camber i should be running front and back? Also does anyone know where i can get a geo set up in derbyshire/notts?
#7
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What are you going to be going with your car?
For road/DD use i would just go for as much as you can get - ie, loosen the clevis bolts on the damper and wiggle as much as you can from the play that's in there. Depending on if your car is lowered or not you should be able to get between 1 & 1.5° negative, which is ample at the rear for road
Also, no need to go to a specialist for that (alot of dosh), just your local alignment shop (someone with something like a Hunter system) and who understands how to 'wiggle' out as much as is possible, rather than saying nah mate, you can't adjust the rears on there
For road/DD use i would just go for as much as you can get - ie, loosen the clevis bolts on the damper and wiggle as much as you can from the play that's in there. Depending on if your car is lowered or not you should be able to get between 1 & 1.5° negative, which is ample at the rear for road
Also, no need to go to a specialist for that (alot of dosh), just your local alignment shop (someone with something like a Hunter system) and who understands how to 'wiggle' out as much as is possible, rather than saying nah mate, you can't adjust the rears on there
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#8
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I've got a spare set of camber bolts out of front and can get a digital angle gauge so can set it fairly accurate. Don't want to be spending a fortune as its a work in progress at min so to pay for geo set up every time i change something isn't going to happen
#11
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What are you going to be going with your car?
For road/DD use i would just go for as much as you can get - ie, loosen the clevis bolts on the damper and wiggle as much as you can from the play that's in there. Depending on if your car is lowered or not you should be able to get between 1 & 1.5° negative, which is ample at the rear for road
Also, no need to go to a specialist for that (alot of dosh), just your local alignment shop (someone with something like a Hunter system) and who understands how to 'wiggle' out as much as is possible, rather than saying nah mate, you can't adjust the rears on there
For road/DD use i would just go for as much as you can get - ie, loosen the clevis bolts on the damper and wiggle as much as you can from the play that's in there. Depending on if your car is lowered or not you should be able to get between 1 & 1.5° negative, which is ample at the rear for road
Also, no need to go to a specialist for that (alot of dosh), just your local alignment shop (someone with something like a Hunter system) and who understands how to 'wiggle' out as much as is possible, rather than saying nah mate, you can't adjust the rears on there
I've got a Jdm sti blob, it's running on bc's has uprated rear arb, drop links f&r, has the flipped pin on the bottom arms. (Non widetrack)
I believe the top plates on the coil overs are the original way around which I've read I can flip from one side to the other? Not sure
I suffer from a great deal of understeer, the front just likes to wash out on tight bends when pushing on, I have fiddled with the DCCD which does help on certain types of road and weather conditions, but it's still noticeable.
I have no idea of how low the suspension has been lowered but it sits quite low imo, (nothing extreme)
I'm running re070 tyres which will shortly be replaced with a fresh set and still on the factory 17" wheels as they have "gone off" so to speak and are solid, car was originally on f1's when purchased and understeer was still quite noticeable, and the rear arb is set on the medium setting.
I'm looking for a good fast road setup for my car and also looking for the recommended height it should be sat at on the coil overs, my local alignment place uses the hunter system and the guy there has been quite helpful over the years with various cars I've had, but I would like to walk in and ask him to set the car to a set of specific specifications that people have tried and tested and found to work if that makes sense. I know alot of it comes down to driving style and I tend to "push on" for a better word through the mountain roads when I'm out for a drive but finding it a bit leery as I can adjust the dccd as mentioned but then it almost catches you out on other bends where the back will try and over take the front so I'm trying to find a happy medium.
I'm not too worried about tyre wear to a degree, I just don't want to be changing tyres every 1-2k and probably do around 4-5k driving miles a year. It's not my daily drive but more of my fun car or when the wife has pìssed me off
If I need to invest in a bump correction kit or whatever it's called then I will, I just don't want to be spending money on things if its not really needed, I'd rather try and solve and work out what's wrong than just dive in and spend on bits "I think" are going to work, I've read through a few threads which is why I've tried to post as much info I can think of.
What would you recommend for the type of setup I have coupled with my driving style, I know it's easier said than done but any help would be appreciated as I'm hoping to have the car back out shortly and this is one of the things I want to get sorted to my style of driving.
Sorry for the long *** post
Cheers
Craig
#13
Scooby Regular
Get your car up to Scoobyclinic. They can give you what ever set up you want and will advice on effect on tyre wear best ride height for the wheel size etc.
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