J pascoe

iTrader: (1)

Hi all,need some advice on geometry settings
The car in question is a 2002 sti prodrive
Mods are bc coilovers lowered by roughly 20mm
Whiteline anti roll bars front 22mm rear 24mm
Whiteline drop links front and rear
Whiteline rear stout mounts
Whiteline anti lift kit
XXR 527 18 x 8.75
Since fitting these I've had the geo done once but that was to factory settings,I'm also going to roll my rear arches as I'm getting some rubbing when cornering hard and wondered if camber bolts on the rear would also help with this? Thanks I'm advance Jon

J pascoe

iTrader: (1)

Bump

jura11

iTrader: (7)

Hi there

You will need add rear camber bolts at rear for sure and possibly at front too,we running 245/40 with 8.75X18 XXR 530's and we never have problems with rubbing,although we have raised at rear suspension just little bit

Here is our latest geo which we are using like on track or on the road,maybe helps



Jura

bonesetter

iTrader: (9)

https://www.scoobynet.com/suspension...-settings.html

J pascoe

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for reply's guys,here are my settings at the moment

Could you have a look and see what would be best out of the two settings below please
Thanks Jon

J pascoe

iTrader: (1)

J pascoe

iTrader: (1)

jura11

iTrader: (7)

Hi Jon

I would raise at rear little bit ride height,just few cm and this should help with the rubbing like on our one

But best setting what you have is probably 2nd one,but still I would go with more camber at front and at rear with camber bolts like at front or rear

Jura

bonesetter

iTrader: (9)

I dread to think what these settings would be like to drive on. There is a massive amount of toe out. I would guess it would give a feel of too much caster mid corner, but with terrible scrub as well as understeer and overall reduced front & rear grip

Camber is OK, but toe needs to near neutral or a little toe in. this will give good turn-in and preserve dynamic in corner geometry

The green coloured print out looks fine

J pascoe

iTrader: (1)

I was thinking of raising the height slightly all round so would I need to raise the rear a little more than the front ?
If so, how much higher should the rear be than the front ?
I'm running yokohama prada spec 2 225 40 18 and just a little concerned that to much camber would wear my tyres excessively, how do you find tyre wear on yours ? Jon

J pascoe

iTrader: (1)

Think I posted the wrong setting there,the other setting was juras at the top of the page.
As for the green one what are your thoughts on more camber ? Thanks Jon

jura11

iTrader: (7)

Hi Jon

On our one we have only raised ride height at rear,due we have issue like you have with rubbing when we cornered hard

Here is the picture how much at rear is raised ride height against front





Those pictures are with ride height same on front and rear(we have problems like you with the rubbing at rear)





With this ride height we run FR -1.3,RR -2.00,car has been OK on the road,but on the track this setup has been very bad.

After 1 track days we are went with setup like I've posted above and car is now awesome on the track or the road

Excessively or premature tyre wear,we never have,we done on previous set(Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta) around 2500 miles and when we tyres sold,they're been like new,no excessive/premature wear

On yours depends on for what car will be used,but still I would go with more camber at front like rear

Like now you running wide wheels,you will be limited to run more camber,just due this you will need to run camber bolts at front and rear


Jura

J pascoe

iTrader: (1)

I'm rolling my arches this week so will try raising the height at the rear then and let you know how I get on.
With the camber bolts I should only need to buy rear ones ?
As I've got adjustable camber top mounts and the front should already have oem camber bolts ?
Am I right ? Thanks again Jon

jura11

iTrader: (7)

Hi Jon


Personally I would buy front and rear one camber bolts,they don't cost so much and if you want to go with more camber at front,OE can be the limiting factor

We are added front and rear,with OE camber bolts,we are been unable run more than -1.5' at front and at rear we are been able to run -2.00'

Arch rolling will helps for sure


Jura

mantazini

iTrader: (25)

this looks fine to me , but i'd drop rear camber to 1.2 , 1.3 negative and leave front on what it is.. The .08 and .03-4 toe in will make it neutral and will shine when pushing.... You need to take on board as well the tyre you using and where the car is being used.... if it's a road car 2.0 negative camber is just ridiculous, will munch your tyres and wont benefit in any case. Such a camber you need only for a track work as on the loads it becomes positive and eventually will fold the tyre if not enough , although depending on a tyre... there's a bit more involved to balance the car then **** loads of camber... If you ask kindly , Bonsetter will explain you in proper english, lol. I do understand how it works but my vocabulary is to short on that...

jura11

iTrader: (7)

Mantas

You are probably forget he running wide wheels and he have issues with the rubbing(mainly at rear),which means he will need to run more camber or change the wheels at least(raising ride height can help to cure this issue)

If he will run only standard wheels size I would say he will be OK with any above settings,although I wouldn't run those toe

We are running -2.00' at front and -1.50' on our wagon is used like daily or on the track and we never have problems with the excessive tyre wear

Our wheel alignment data are posted above


Jura

mantazini

iTrader: (25)

Sorry , i didnt take the rim width on board.. might be the case , but would still like to hear from Bonesetter or Arnie_1 regards all this, i'm following their advice for years, its all nicely explained and works well.... Although i'm not dismissing others , how would you say this correctly. many opinions as much as people or smtn, lol ..

J pascoe

iTrader: (1)

Little update, I've now raised the rear slightly and also rolled my arches,and so far no rubbing.
I'll be having the geo done next week so will order some camber bolts over the weekend.
Excessive camber is still a little concern for me so was thinking of trying around 1.75 negative camber on the front ?
Jon

mantazini

iTrader: (25)

I'm running 1.75 fr and 1.45 rear with 8J and 7.5J wheels , it works as fast road/ track geometry... I'm not sure as mentioned regards the wider wheels , but my friends inside of the tyre was munched in a very short of time when driving sensibly... You need a lot of camber only if you driving very hard or as Jura mentioned clearance purposes.. Also with a stiff sidewall tyre as R888, RE070, AD08, AD48s you need less camber IMO ....

jura11

iTrader: (7)

Hi Jon

Good to hear this

As on our one,we are done this and we never have any problems with rubbing.

About the geo,depends on where car will be mostly used and from this I would go.

-1.75 camber is OK for fast road or fast track,although I would lower at rear negative camber as have above Mantas,those settings should work on yours on track or on the road

Jura

J pascoe

iTrader: (1)

Was your mate running the same camber as you ?
Went for a longer drive yesterday afternoon played around with my damping settings, threw it around a little and still no rubbing,so shouldn't need to go mad on the camber.
As for tyres I'm running yokohama prada spec 2 and will be mainly road use as the only tracks down in Cornwall are farm tracks😄

J pascoe

iTrader: (1)

Feels much better now without worrying about rubbing,playing around with damping yesterday and its no longer crashing over bumps as I had it set quite hard before because of the rubbing

mantazini

iTrader: (25)

Yes my mate was running similar , but just a bit less camber... Falken 452's tend to wear out quick so in your case might be different/better? Regards crashing, if you drive on bumpy roads , your suspension needs to be setup on a softer side to absorb the bumps etc... be carefull if its set too hard and you will push your car , it can start to skipping and loosing traction...

white noise

iTrader: (8)

Thanks for the specs, mine will need doing soon!

JTJUDGE

pop into the project section and look for the cocky blob. There is a print out of a fast road geo set up sheet giving the results before and after.

J pascoe

iTrader: (1)

Camber bolt have turned up now,so will be getting geo set up next week.
As for the crashy ride, it was only set a little harder than I like because I was trying to save my tyres while it was still rubbing. I've now found I decent damping setting that I'm happy with and feels much better.

J pascoe

iTrader: (1)

I've got to say thanks for all the advise guys,this is what I signed up to scoobynet for you've been a great help and i just wish everyone was this helpful on here. Jon