DIY fitment of BC's.
#1
DIY fitment of BC's.
Hi all,
After finally finding some Pff's I'm now looking at buying some BC's for my 04 rex. I've had a few quotes on fitting but several people tell me actually it's not that hard to fit them yourself as long as you get it 4 wheel laser aligned after.
How true is this? And how long should I set aside for it?
Thanks all.
After finally finding some Pff's I'm now looking at buying some BC's for my 04 rex. I've had a few quotes on fitting but several people tell me actually it's not that hard to fit them yourself as long as you get it 4 wheel laser aligned after.
How true is this? And how long should I set aside for it?
Thanks all.
Last edited by Kedlestone; 14 November 2011 at 02:38 PM.
#2
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iTrader: (22)
It's a doddle to do.
1.5 hours should be an absolute maximum.
The only difficulties you may have is undoing the strut - hub bolts due to corrosion.
It really is a case of undoing the two 19mm strut to hub bolts at the bottom of the strut and the three 12mm nuts at the top of the strut, removing the brake line off the strut ( you don't have to break the seal of the line so rebleeding the brakes isn't necessary). That's it.
1.5 hours should be an absolute maximum.
The only difficulties you may have is undoing the strut - hub bolts due to corrosion.
It really is a case of undoing the two 19mm strut to hub bolts at the bottom of the strut and the three 12mm nuts at the top of the strut, removing the brake line off the strut ( you don't have to break the seal of the line so rebleeding the brakes isn't necessary). That's it.
#5
fitted these to my classic a few months back.
you will notice as mentioned above that the front top hub bolt is a camber bolt.
the same bolt on the rear is not a camber bolt (At least on my classic) but the hole in the BC was bigger than the bolt. as a result the top of the hub can sit out further than normal and cause the wheel to touch the arches (did for me) so check that and make sure you push the top of the hub in towards the car when you do up the two bolts that bolt the top of the hub to the damper
you will notice as mentioned above that the front top hub bolt is a camber bolt.
the same bolt on the rear is not a camber bolt (At least on my classic) but the hole in the BC was bigger than the bolt. as a result the top of the hub can sit out further than normal and cause the wheel to touch the arches (did for me) so check that and make sure you push the top of the hub in towards the car when you do up the two bolts that bolt the top of the hub to the damper
#7
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#8
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fitted these to my classic a few months back.
you will notice as mentioned above that the front top hub bolt is a camber bolt.
the same bolt on the rear is not a camber bolt (At least on my classic) but the hole in the BC was bigger than the bolt. as a result the top of the hub can sit out further than normal and cause the wheel to touch the arches (did for me) so check that and make sure you push the top of the hub in towards the car when you do up the two bolts that bolt the top of the hub to the damper
you will notice as mentioned above that the front top hub bolt is a camber bolt.
the same bolt on the rear is not a camber bolt (At least on my classic) but the hole in the BC was bigger than the bolt. as a result the top of the hub can sit out further than normal and cause the wheel to touch the arches (did for me) so check that and make sure you push the top of the hub in towards the car when you do up the two bolts that bolt the top of the hub to the damper
Tell the mech. what alignment you want (camber and toe) or he will probably just plonk it within the Subaru standard figures.
JohnD
PS Unwind the hub bracket on the BC's at least 4-5 turns before fitting otherwise the car will be far too low (They're short for packaging purposes?) Drive the car to settle the springs then check ride height at each corner - you may need 2 or 3 goes at getting to what you want and it MUST be on absolutely level ground and do this before you get the alignment done!
Last edited by JohnD; 14 November 2011 at 03:50 PM.
#9
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It's a doddle to do.
1.5 hours should be an absolute maximum.
The only difficulties you may have is undoing the strut - hub bolts due to corrosion.
It really is a case of undoing the two 19mm strut to hub bolts at the bottom of the strut and the three 12mm nuts at the top of the strut, removing the brake line off the strut ( you don't have to break the seal of the line so rebleeding the brakes isn't necessary). That's it.
1.5 hours should be an absolute maximum.
The only difficulties you may have is undoing the strut - hub bolts due to corrosion.
It really is a case of undoing the two 19mm strut to hub bolts at the bottom of the strut and the three 12mm nuts at the top of the strut, removing the brake line off the strut ( you don't have to break the seal of the line so rebleeding the brakes isn't necessary). That's it.
I was quite suprised at the size of the bolts holding the top of the shock inplace, they don't look big enough!
Knowing how easy it is now, I'd definitely have a go myself next time.
#10
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If you get the front adjustable camber plates then I just set the camber bolts to neutral and adjust via the camber plates when I take it to get laser aligned.
It's the lazy man way!
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