hi i have a whiteline alk and 22mm rear arb to fit aswell as front and rear cdf droplinks do i need to put lowering springs on too before i get geo setup as i dont really wont to lower it but if it helps i will cheers

 

You don't need lowering springs to fit an ARB.

 

If you do lower it then add a roll-centre / bump steer kit to your list...

dunx

 

Do i need to get the uprated arb mounts for the arb or can i just bolt it on to the car

 

Only for serious track use, IMHO.

dunx

 

Cheers dunx

 

depends on what model year car you have. the 2004+ cars received uprated rear ARB mounts. I would suggesting uprating your rear mounts if you run a 22mm rear bar on a bug-eye or classic. You WILL brake your rear mount when running a larger rear bar. Its not a question of if but when. Doesn't matter if its on track or road.

Cheapest way is to buy the 04+ rear mount from subaru. But make sure you buy a rear ARB for that year car as the bushing shape that comes with the bar needs to match the bushing clamp of the newer mount. Or you can buy an uprated mount from Whiteline and specify what size ARB you will run. It will come with the proper bushing and bracket for that size bar.

 

My car is a 53plate blobeye

 

Right, just read your other thread. You shouldn't have to upgrade your rear mount then. Good to go!

 

Ok cheers

 

had my alk and 22mm rear adjustable roll bar and cdf droplinks front and rear fitted should i get the geo set up aswell cheers

 

geometry is allways a good idea

 

Yes, with the fitment of an ALK you have to have your geometry set as installing one will throw it out of whack. Make sure you have the shop give you a print out of your before and after settings so you can make sure they did a proper job.

Do you know what geometry settings you want to have?

 

Don know what to set it at any advice welcome

 

Depends on what you want to do with the car. Fast road, track, lots of mileage on long straights, etc. etc. How important is tyre wear for you?

 

Fast road wont be on a track

 

I prefer to max out front camber, so ca. -1.5 up front (equal on L/R sides). Zero toe in the front. Rear camber will be whatever it is but have the tech loosen up the rear bolts and tug on the wheels so that the camber is equal on both sides. Rear camber will be around -1.5 to 1.75. Just try to get it even. Rear toe I prefer 1 or 2mm toe in (equal on both sides).

This is for someone who likes to hit the twisties. If you drive 95% highway then just a few km's on the back roads, you may get some inner tire wear. If you do, back off your front camber a bit to, say, -1. Or, corner harder!

make sure you get a print out of your geometry with before and after on there. And be picky when you are the shop, don't settle for it being way off. You are paying them good money, look to see that they are close to the specs you want.

 

cheers arnie thanks for all the help