bc help
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From: hudds or the nurburgring ;)
hi all, just got my bc rm's back and they been stripped and sorted, only problem is that everything has to be reset, pre load, ride height and all that.
could anyone supply some rough settings so can get them on my car, garage cant fit me in for at least a week i think.
car is a 52 plate sti type uk
cheers, shawn.
could anyone supply some rough settings so can get them on my car, garage cant fit me in for at least a week i think.
car is a 52 plate sti type uk
cheers, shawn.
Last edited by shawn r; Jul 20, 2010 at 07:08 PM.
Preload is adjust lockring up to spring so its held then tighten a further 5mm. Height can be adjusted in situ so set them all a given length and adjust accordingly. Pretty easy really, HTH
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From: hudds or the nurburgring ;)
nice one, only problem i think i might come across is the front camber bolts, should the cam on the bolt go straight up? or could i just make sure that they are both the same with having camber top mounts?
cheers mate.
cheers mate.
It really needs setting up on a 4 wheeler somewhere, Track Torque near York are good. Make em both the same for trying out but you should have marked em first b4 removing and try put back same. Still should be checked though, mine are just guessed (still) and watch tyre wear
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From: hudds or the nurburgring ;)
i know what you mean, problem was i was doing one side and brother in law was doing other, told him to mark before taking bolts out and turned out that he marked the nut lol
just looking at getting them on for now and straight to garage soon as they have space.
should the ride height gap be the same on all 4 corners with the front being shorter over all?
cheers, shawn
just looking at getting them on for now and straight to garage soon as they have space.
should the ride height gap be the same on all 4 corners with the front being shorter over all?
cheers, shawn
Last edited by shawn r; Jul 21, 2010 at 05:15 PM.
PS - ride height should be checked on a perfectly level surface - get a good accurate measure from the middle of the centre cap to a similar point on the fronts and again on the backs. You'll probably find most setups are slightly different, just what looks/feels good
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From: Slowly rebuilding the kit of bits into a car...
Dont be silly Duncan, it's always nice to chat to fellow enthusiasts.
my setup is aimed at fast road use mainly, rather than out and out track use, so should suit you well.
camber is -1.8 degrees front, -1.6 degrees rear. Parallel toe rear, 0.5mm toe in front. I cant alter ride height which is 380mm front, 352mm rear. The group N PWRC cars on tarmac setup run 364mm front, 344mm rear with a full tank of fuel onboard, so your setup is quite low for a road car and a bit nose low, i'd be temped to raise the front 10mm if it feels very pointy.
cheers
john
Some input from a proper driver - not me !
dunx
P.S. I got mine back tonight ! Tein suggest 345mm F and 340mm R
my setup is aimed at fast road use mainly, rather than out and out track use, so should suit you well.
camber is -1.8 degrees front, -1.6 degrees rear. Parallel toe rear, 0.5mm toe in front. I cant alter ride height which is 380mm front, 352mm rear. The group N PWRC cars on tarmac setup run 364mm front, 344mm rear with a full tank of fuel onboard, so your setup is quite low for a road car and a bit nose low, i'd be temped to raise the front 10mm if it feels very pointy.
cheers
john
Some input from a proper driver - not me !
dunx
P.S. I got mine back tonight ! Tein suggest 345mm F and 340mm R
Last edited by dunx; Jul 21, 2010 at 10:28 PM.


