Guys, who makes the best lowering springs for my car with regards to comfort / performance, also how much are they roughly and would anyone recommend not putting springs on and why?

Thanks.

 

I have prodrive springs on mine (03WRX)
The car came with them on so don't know how the standard springs compare.
I also have a whiteline rear ARB fitted as well, and it has been set up to prodrive spec.

Look at my garage to see how the car sits.

You can use original shocks, but would suggest you change them if they are original as they are probably about shot.

 

Here is my honest reply. Bear in mind i am getting old! LOL
I have Eibach springs on my car with OEM shocks. These shocks have done over 86k miles and so may be getting tired.
The springs are good, they will be noisy at first with creaks and some banging until they settle though.
I live in Nottm, and so am surrounded by speeds humps all over the housing estates my family are. So, would i prefer a softer and more compliant ride? Yes.
Is it that bad i regret the Eibachs? No way.
They are not overly harsh nor hard and they are perfectly good enough for everyday driving. I would like the same ride, but i could use the height being higher in reality now. I have to travel too slow to ensure no damage over some humps, so the 25mm or so the car sits lower, will make a difference to your driving if you hit humps, pot holes, crap roads, etc.
So, all in all, it really is your choice depending upon what you use the car for.

 

Cheers guys tht helps quite abit, i like the look just dont wanna completelyruin the rise comfort.

 

Get the Whiteline rear ARB first, along with some solid drop-links. The ride will stay exactly as it is, but rear body roll will be dramatically reduced allowing the front tyres to retain better road alignment meaning more grip and safer, faster cornering. The best pound/benefit mod there is. Get a 22mm one if you're a normal driver who uses the brakes a lot. If you know Roadcraft and drive smoothly with almost no braking, get the 24mm. Three settings available on each, I always say go for the stiffest

There's nothing wrong with the Eibach springs, but the Prodrive ones are usually regarded as better. They are still actually manufactured by Eibach, but to a different spec which gives better handling and ride.

 

The only Roadcraft i know is the book! LOL. Thats as far as i got.
I need some proper tuition

 

Thats sounds like a good way of doing it, i prob will go fr rear ARB first as your not the first pson to say that. not to blow my own trumpet but i am a quite good driver normal and at speed, saying that i dont know anything about road craft so maybe im not so good ha ha. whatcan you tell me?

 

Hazard perception, risk assessment, vehicle balance, weight transfer, micro-climates, sight lines, vanishing points, where do you wanna start In brief, you should always be able to stop in the distance you can see to be clear. DO NOT use brakes unless in an emergency, if you need to then you have got it wrong ! Smooth application of throttle and steering to maintain balance and perfect weight placement, allied with quality gear changing, matching revs with blips on dowshifts, and using the 'box to reduce speed. Assess the road ahead looking for clues as to its layout, following walls, bushes or tree-lines. Check every sign and road marking, and look for other clues such as skid marks to highlight potential danger areas. Consider the available grip, for example there could be spoil on the road near farms, or under trees it could be cooler and damp, maybe with fallen leaves. When you start to get it right you start to realise just how fast a car can go around a corner when driven well, instead of the usual hooligan way with lots of drama and braking. The ride will become calm, even though the average speed could be considered extreme. I've ridden with many drivers whom feel fast because the effort they appear to put in and the unruliness of the vehicle pitching and flopping about gives a sensation of speed, but a good smooth driver will be ultimately faster yet feel slower. Think about how Jeremy Clarkson looks when he drives a supercar around TG's track, and then how the same car looks when Stig drives it, fluidly and smooth, yet significantly quicker. In-car footage of Lewis Hamilton or Jensen Button, two of the smoothest drivers in F1 is good too.

 

Ah turns out i do know about most of it, i do alot of that stuff now, smooth cornering paying full attention to everything on the road for as far as i can see, also trying to keep the cars weight distribution level under braking and cornering, i cant drive without braking though but have never tried, maybe once i get used to car ill try, need somewhere smooth and empty to practise drifting aswell ;-)

 

The confidence not to brake is one of the hardest parts to learn. When my instructor was heading towards a bend I'd probably approach at 110, braking to 60 or so, he was doing 140. He calmly lifted, dropped a cog, turned it in and from the apex eased back on the gas with the speed not dropping below 130 With the apex speed at over twice what I was used to this seemed mental, and yet the car didn't bat an eyelid. No tyre squeal, no sliding, it just gripped and went around the bend. With the weight balance evenly over the tyres they have massively more grip than when the weight lurches forward under braking, then slamming the back end down whilst unweighting the steering wheels under hard acceleration trying to regain lost momentum.

 

Yeah unfortunately i've had some mistakes where that has happend but generally im pretty good at it now. nothing that a driving course couldn't improve on though, i dont think im the stig or anything ha ha!