Fitting Some Tein EDFCs
20 February 2009, 11:49 PM
#1
Fitting Some Tein EDFCs
My weekend task is to remove OE type suspension & replace with some Tein EDFCs.
Never having done a suspension swap, what can anyone tell me about how to do this & to do it right? Fortunate not to have any rear interior to take out/re-fit but as I understand it...
1) Jack up car
2) Remove wheel
3) Undo suspension bottom bolts
4) Undo suspension top 3 bolts
5) Remove old suspension
6) Insert new
7) Do up top 3 bolts
8) Do up bottom bolts
9) Put wheel back on
10) Let car down
11) Repeat x3
12) Then fit EDFC
13) Get 4-wheel alignment
Am I missing anything out or have forgotten/overlooked anything? Anything else I should be aware of or consider? Correct order of operation?
Any special tools required or is it just the ususal 10/12/14mm Subaru types of spanner/socket?
Cheers
Puff
Never having done a suspension swap, what can anyone tell me about how to do this & to do it right? Fortunate not to have any rear interior to take out/re-fit but as I understand it...
1) Jack up car
2) Remove wheel
3) Undo suspension bottom bolts
4) Undo suspension top 3 bolts
5) Remove old suspension
6) Insert new
7) Do up top 3 bolts
8) Do up bottom bolts
9) Put wheel back on
10) Let car down
11) Repeat x3
12) Then fit EDFC
13) Get 4-wheel alignment
Am I missing anything out or have forgotten/overlooked anything? Anything else I should be aware of or consider? Correct order of operation?
Any special tools required or is it just the ususal 10/12/14mm Subaru types of spanner/socket?
Cheers
Puff
21 February 2009, 02:24 PM
#2
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Yes !
3. They are bl**dy tight, I had to ask my "pal" at Kwik-fit to loosen mine for a "fast buck".... then swapped them on Monday night.
HTH
dunx
P.S. Wheel brace fits if you have some scaffolding handy...
17 mm ?
3. They are bl**dy tight, I had to ask my "pal" at Kwik-fit to loosen mine for a "fast buck".... then swapped them on Monday night.
HTH
dunx
P.S. Wheel brace fits if you have some scaffolding handy...
17 mm ?
21 February 2009, 04:50 PM
#3
All seems right to me James especially the order of the strut end bolts- soak the bottom bolts in wd40 night before and then give them a little heat if you have something to hand before getting the boogers loose
Good luck
J
Good luck
J
21 February 2009, 06:53 PM
#4
All done - well the mechanical bit anyway 
The first bolts (rear o/side) were tough but I found a piece of tubing from somewhere & that helped. Then I remembered my torque wrench & after that it was all easy Must have taken me about 2.5 - 3 hours but each one got progressively faster lol
Now its the wiring to do, probably tomorrow as I want to wire up my knocklink as well and whilst I've got the console up, might as well fit the quickshift and boost guage...
Then as it'll need the geo done, its a good time to fit the quick-rack & change the steering pump which is leaking...
Never ends!
The first bolts (rear o/side) were tough but I found a piece of tubing from somewhere & that helped. Then I remembered my torque wrench & after that it was all easy
Must have taken me about 2.5 - 3 hours but each one got progressively faster lolNow its the wiring to do, probably tomorrow as I want to wire up my knocklink as well and whilst I've got the console up, might as well fit the quickshift and boost guage...
Then as it'll need the geo done, its a good time to fit the quick-rack & change the steering pump which is leaking...
Never ends!
21 February 2009, 10:34 PM
#7
Pics of...
Shockers
Shockers + spagetti junction
Rears fitted
Fronts fitted
One of the top-mounts (O/S)
It *might* be
a) the wrong side
b) incorrect alignment
But this is how I think they should go
Cheers
Puff
Shockers
Shockers + spagetti junction
Rears fitted
Fronts fitted
One of the top-mounts (O/S)
It *might* be
a) the wrong side
b) incorrect alignment
But this is how I think they should go
Cheers
Puff
Last edited by Puff The Magic Wagon!; 21 February 2009 at 10:35 PM.
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21 February 2009, 10:45 PM
#8
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If you look closely it has a "L" sticker on it.... for left !
As you increase the camber (negative = inwards) you are losing castor, not ideal as the "feel" of the steering will alter.
Advise that you swap L & R, UNLESS 911 has told you to do it that way !
HTH
dunx
P.S. They look like the Flex model, hope the spring rates aren't way too stiff for our cr*ppy roads.... I went forSuperstreets because they are 40% softer at the front and 25% softer at the rear. Mine are set on fully soft too !
No edfc, run out of money
As you increase the camber (negative = inwards) you are losing castor, not ideal as the "feel" of the steering will alter.
Advise that you swap L & R, UNLESS 911 has told you to do it that way !
HTH
dunx
P.S. They look like the Flex model, hope the spring rates aren't way too stiff for our cr*ppy roads.... I went forSuperstreets because they are 40% softer at the front and 25% softer at the rear. Mine are set on fully soft too !
No edfc, run out of money
Last edited by dunx; 21 February 2009 at 10:55 PM.
21 February 2009, 11:46 PM
#9
If you look closely it has a "L" sticker on it.... for left !
As you increase the camber (negative = inwards) you are losing castor, not ideal as the "feel" of the steering will alter.
Advise that you swap L & R, UNLESS 911 has told you to do it that way !
HTH
dunx
P.S. They look like the Flex model, hope the spring rates aren't way too stiff for our cr*ppy roads.... I went forSuperstreets because they are 40% softer at the front and 25% softer at the rear. Mine are set on fully soft too !
No edfc, run out of money
As you increase the camber (negative = inwards) you are losing castor, not ideal as the "feel" of the steering will alter.
Advise that you swap L & R, UNLESS 911 has told you to do it that way !
HTH
dunx
P.S. They look like the Flex model, hope the spring rates aren't way too stiff for our cr*ppy roads.... I went forSuperstreets because they are 40% softer at the front and 25% softer at the rear. Mine are set on fully soft too !
No edfc, run out of money
Not worried about ride really as its a track toy not a daily driver.We worked on the basis of "looking at the car" right/left as opposed to sitting in the car - couldn't find decent instructions. Now that I know what I'm doing shouldn't take too long to change - that and eased off nuts lol
Thanks m8
). Got the knock & boostguage to finish off as well lol
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