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Fitting Eibachs. Need some piece of mind.

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Old Oct 1, 2007 | 10:52 PM
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Default Fitting Eibachs. Need some piece of mind.

Evening all,

I’ve bought some Eibach springs for my MY00, I’m thinking about fitting them myself. (Have to say, not really looking forward to it ).

Would love some input from people who’ve done it themselves

I’ve got as far as removing the rear seats, I can just about see the nuts holding the rear struts (it’s was dark). I’ll attempt to remove the rear shelf tomorrow. Once this is out the way, is there enough room to get at the nuts, or is it best to remove the coiled up seat belts for better access?
For removing each strut, is it just the 3 nuts at the top and the 2 attaching it to the hub? Once these are off (and brake lines), is this all that’s required to remove them?

Are spring compressors necessary? Or could I get away without using any?

Also, what about torque settings when putting it all back together? (or is ‘kin tight the order of the day? )

Sorry for so many questions, I'm a relatively competent mechanical DIY'er but this is my first attempt at changing springs on any vehicle and it would be great if things didn't go pear-shaped!

TIA.
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Old Oct 2, 2007 | 12:12 AM
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If you are fairly useful with a spanner (or hammer) go for it

My advice is.......

. Ensure you have all the required spanners/sockets etc prior to starting.
. Soak all weather exposed nuts/bolts with WD40 beforehand.
. Consider how to remove the strut top nut as I had a bit of a mare as the correct method is using an air gun.

I didn't use spring compressors. I tied wire coathangers around the old spring (still compressed) before removing strut top nut. The new springs just needed a touch of compressing and the wife's useful hand to get the first couple of turns on the top nut.

Good luck.
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Old Oct 2, 2007 | 11:41 AM
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Make sure that the front spring hat has the hole inline with the boly holes. Otherwise it will knock forever.
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Old Oct 3, 2007 | 10:37 AM
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Cheers guys,

I'll give it a go at the weekend.

Thanks again.
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Old Oct 3, 2007 | 10:59 AM
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Firstly you dont have to remove the rear shelf, and yes removing the seat belts will make life alot easier.
Spring compressors are definately recommended but obviously not essential (sp).
Brake lines do not need to removed (saves bleeding the system) just cut the bracket and bend out of the way, Then bend back when refitting.
You will need to take note of the markings on the rear top mounts before you strip the strut as they need to go back on in the correct position.

HTH
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Old Oct 3, 2007 | 12:40 PM
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I got me a set of these to do mine...

Amazon.co.uk: Draper 68615 Coil Spring Compressors (2) *: DIY & Tools

Its very hard to get the top mounts down and the nut on without them.

Make sure you loosen the top nut of the shock shaft (21mm or may be a 19mm I cant remember) before you take the suspension out. This is in the middle of the 12mm nuts at the top of the suspension. Its does have an allen key hole in the top which you are meant to use in combination with a ring spanner buts its not easy. Far better to just slacken it off in situ.

The three top nuts are 12mm, the seat belt bolts are 14mm, the two big bolts at the bottom are 19mm I think.

Follow the advise above about making sure the top cap is in the correct orientation upon reassembly or it will knock like buggery.

Last edited by The Hoff; Oct 3, 2007 at 12:45 PM.
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