Whiteline parts
#1
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Whiteline parts
Having had the bumpsteer mod and anti-lift kit fitted a while ago I'm looking at a couple more suspension changes:
Rear ARB (22mm adjustable) BSR20XZ
Heavy duty rear ARB mounts KBR20-22
Front drop links (steel) KLC20A
Rear drop links (steel) KLC19
Can anyone confirm that I've got the correct part numbers (for a MY99) please?
Also, is there anything else I should consider at the same time (other than the alignment)?
Cheers
Dibs
Rear ARB (22mm adjustable) BSR20XZ
Heavy duty rear ARB mounts KBR20-22
Front drop links (steel) KLC20A
Rear drop links (steel) KLC19
Can anyone confirm that I've got the correct part numbers (for a MY99) please?
Also, is there anything else I should consider at the same time (other than the alignment)?
Cheers
Dibs
#2
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Can't help you with the numbers etc. but would love to get some feedback on opinions of the bump mod and ALK. Was it done at Powerstation?
I'm trying to get as many opinions as possible for going ahead with these mods plus the ARB and links.
I'm trying to get as many opinions as possible for going ahead with these mods plus the ARB and links.
#3
I seriously race my Sti v3 and drive it (more slowly) on the road too.
I would suggest that you DO fit the complimentary larger fixed rate front bar along with the rear.
As to the bump steer mod, I've driven on a track an RA with this (and the bars) and it really is nice.
Power Station will fix it all for you. Spend wisely now and enjoy the REAL Impreza!
911
I would suggest that you DO fit the complimentary larger fixed rate front bar along with the rear.
As to the bump steer mod, I've driven on a track an RA with this (and the bars) and it really is nice.
Power Station will fix it all for you. Spend wisely now and enjoy the REAL Impreza!
911
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Cheers for the advice 911. From what I've heard on here, you only really need the front ARB if you run the rear on the stiffest setting. Would you agree with this? What is it like as a daily driver - a little more tail-happy?
Eddscott - yes, I had the work done at Powerstation. I was experiencing a lot of squirm under braking and running wide whilst powering out of corners and these were both cured (or at least reduced massively) with these mods - highly recommended. Powerstation certainly know their Impreza's.
Eddscott - yes, I had the work done at Powerstation. I was experiencing a lot of squirm under braking and running wide whilst powering out of corners and these were both cured (or at least reduced massively) with these mods - highly recommended. Powerstation certainly know their Impreza's.
#5
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Had this fitted to STI V5 TYPE R LTD EDDITION:
AST adjustable coilovers.
Whiteline Solid Rear Drop Links. removed and replaced with Whiteline solid Alloy Drop Links.
Whiteline 24 mm adjustable rear swaybar.
Whiteline 22 mm adjusable front swaybar.
Whiteline H/Duty ARB M. kit and Anti Lift Kit.
Bump Steer & Powerstation Geometry Settings
Transforms the handling of the car. The suspension setup is very hard and it is no noticeable differance between hard settings and soft.
I still have the steal drop links at home but PowerStation recommend the H/Duty Alloy ones. They do look much better but then who see's them.
Old Swaybar and steal droplinks.
New Swaybar and H/Duty Alloy Droplinks
AST adjustable coilovers.
Whiteline Solid Rear Drop Links. removed and replaced with Whiteline solid Alloy Drop Links.
Whiteline 24 mm adjustable rear swaybar.
Whiteline 22 mm adjusable front swaybar.
Whiteline H/Duty ARB M. kit and Anti Lift Kit.
Bump Steer & Powerstation Geometry Settings
Transforms the handling of the car. The suspension setup is very hard and it is no noticeable differance between hard settings and soft.
I still have the steal drop links at home but PowerStation recommend the H/Duty Alloy ones. They do look much better but then who see's them.
Old Swaybar and steal droplinks.
New Swaybar and H/Duty Alloy Droplinks
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Presumably it's very hard due to the coilovers? I'm going to stick with the prodrive suspension (eibach springs/bilstein dampers) as it needs to be fairly comfortable day-to-day. I'm really just looking to sharpen things up a bit.
Also, I thought that the 22mm front/24mm rear ARB's were for track work only - I guess that's why it handles so well!
Any idea why Powerstation recommend the alloy droplinks over the steel?
Cheers
Dibs
Also, I thought that the 22mm front/24mm rear ARB's were for track work only - I guess that's why it handles so well!
Any idea why Powerstation recommend the alloy droplinks over the steel?
Cheers
Dibs
#7
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Yea the car is set up for track work, but its my every day run around also.
Same Suspension as Type 25 but on lighter car.
Was told the H/Duty alloy droplinks are much stronger. Whiteline also recommend these for track.
Same Suspension as Type 25 but on lighter car.
Was told the H/Duty alloy droplinks are much stronger. Whiteline also recommend these for track.
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#8
My Sti has every Whiteline and MRT suspension mod on it.
I now have the rear bar on the middle hole. The stiffest setting is too much on hill climb tracks.
My only regret is to have fitted poly bushes to the suspension, but the rest is fine for the road.(and really good for the race!)
There is no excuse for a coil over set-up to be harsh. If you pick the right spring rates then everything is fine, but just for the road I wouldn't bother with coil overs.
911
I now have the rear bar on the middle hole. The stiffest setting is too much on hill climb tracks.
My only regret is to have fitted poly bushes to the suspension, but the rest is fine for the road.(and really good for the race!)
There is no excuse for a coil over set-up to be harsh. If you pick the right spring rates then everything is fine, but just for the road I wouldn't bother with coil overs.
911
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Originally Posted by bob
Whiteline Solid Rear Drop Links. removed and replaced with Whiteline solid Alloy Drop Links.
Whiteline 24 mm adjustable rear swaybar.
Whiteline 22 mm adjusable front swaybar.
Whiteline H/Duty ARB M. kit and Anti Lift Kit.
Whiteline 24 mm adjustable rear swaybar.
Whiteline 22 mm adjusable front swaybar.
Whiteline H/Duty ARB M. kit and Anti Lift Kit.
If my rear was set at the middle hole, which hole is best for the front? (I know it's probably down to personal preference, but I'd like to know if there is combination I should avoid). Thanks.
#10
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I have AST suspension, 22mm rear bar in the midlle setting (softest setting is the hole at the end of the bar BTW...).
I chose my spring rates/dampers settings carefully and I'm very pleased with the setup.
Damping is now tightly and firm but suitable for B-road trashing.
For normal road driving I have 2f/1r from the 14 settings, things are firmed up when I really want to trash or go to the 'Ring (14f/12r on dry tarmac in the summer !)
I also ride on PzeroCorsa's and they stiffen up the ride noticably...
With this setup you have no major understeer and a very controlable rear-end, only slide's when you want it (when you lift iin a corner that is...)
Creepy
I chose my spring rates/dampers settings carefully and I'm very pleased with the setup.
Damping is now tightly and firm but suitable for B-road trashing.
For normal road driving I have 2f/1r from the 14 settings, things are firmed up when I really want to trash or go to the 'Ring (14f/12r on dry tarmac in the summer !)
I also ride on PzeroCorsa's and they stiffen up the ride noticably...
With this setup you have no major understeer and a very controlable rear-end, only slide's when you want it (when you lift iin a corner that is...)
Creepy
#11
Jiggery:
The normal Whiteline front bar is not adjustable, it's just thicker than stock.
The difference between hard/med/soft is not that great until you are really pushing on.
On hardest my car will lift a rear wheel in tight bends off the road = wheel spin.
Med setting tends to stop this = faster passage!
Interestingly (?) my horrid AVO struts need 8/10 front and 7/10 rear to compromise the settings to the spring rate for twisty tracks.
AST's obviously much better product! (can't be worse)
911
The normal Whiteline front bar is not adjustable, it's just thicker than stock.
The difference between hard/med/soft is not that great until you are really pushing on.
On hardest my car will lift a rear wheel in tight bends off the road = wheel spin.
Med setting tends to stop this = faster passage!
Interestingly (?) my horrid AVO struts need 8/10 front and 7/10 rear to compromise the settings to the spring rate for twisty tracks.
AST's obviously much better product! (can't be worse)
911
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50 front 45 rear, on Classic Turbo.
Must say that I had lot's of "clunking" noises in the beginning.
After 2 visits to the AST factory they're all sorted out !!!
(I live on a 80 min. drive from AST in Holland)
The valving is also changed to my preferences, but that is something I cannot explain, , too complicated for my tiny brain...
Creepy
Must say that I had lot's of "clunking" noises in the beginning.
After 2 visits to the AST factory they're all sorted out !!!
(I live on a 80 min. drive from AST in Holland)
The valving is also changed to my preferences, but that is something I cannot explain, , too complicated for my tiny brain...
Creepy
#14
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Originally Posted by 911
Jiggery:
The normal Whiteline front bar is not adjustable, it's just thicker than stock.
The difference between hard/med/soft is not that great until you are really pushing on. ...
911
The normal Whiteline front bar is not adjustable, it's just thicker than stock.
The difference between hard/med/soft is not that great until you are really pushing on. ...
911
Also, getting back to the original poster: does Dibs need to get the geometry done again if he had the bumpsteer mod done when he fitted the ALK? I was told that the fitting of ARBs does not affect geometry (same applies to adjusting the ARBs, you don't need to re-do geometry every time).
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Originally Posted by Creepy
50 front 45 rear, on Classic Turbo.
Must say that I had lot's of "clunking" noises in the beginning.
After 2 visits to the AST factory they're all sorted out !!!
(I live on a 80 min. drive from AST in Holland)
The valving is also changed to my preferences, but that is something I cannot explain, , too complicated for my tiny brain...
Creepy
Must say that I had lot's of "clunking" noises in the beginning.
After 2 visits to the AST factory they're all sorted out !!!
(I live on a 80 min. drive from AST in Holland)
The valving is also changed to my preferences, but that is something I cannot explain, , too complicated for my tiny brain...
Creepy
Im running similar rates (50f, 40r), really happy with them.
Did you just ask them to alter the valving to give a better ride etc?
#16
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Originally Posted by Jiggerypokery
Also, getting back to the original poster: does Dibs need to get the geometry done again if he had the bumpsteer mod done when he fitted the ALK? I was told that the fitting of ARBs does not affect geometry (same applies to adjusting the ARBs, you don't need to re-do geometry every time).
Can anyone confirm the part numbers?
Cheers
Dibs
#17
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LJ1 : Valving is altered to a litlle softer then standard.
I defenitely feel a difference between soft (1) and hard (14), more jiggly ride, but the best combination for B-road is 7f-4r or so, only when attacking the 'Ring or similar I go to 14f-12r...
Creepy
I defenitely feel a difference between soft (1) and hard (14), more jiggly ride, but the best combination for B-road is 7f-4r or so, only when attacking the 'Ring or similar I go to 14f-12r...
Creepy
#18
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I looked on the demon tweeks website yesterday and found the front and rear drop links and rear ARB but there was no sign of uprated ARB mounts. I seem to remember something about being able to buy a complete kit for the rear (drop links, ARB and uprated mounts) - can anyone confirm this? (part no's or supplier would be cool too).
TIA
Dibs
TIA
Dibs
#19
My ARB's came direct from Whiteline, and they had the yellow hard bushed included. I think the Demon T's do too.
If you want to be sure call D/T and ask for Dave Kimberly.
911
If you want to be sure call D/T and ask for Dave Kimberly.
911
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Hi:
Bob had our track set up 50Nmm front springs and 40Nmm rears. This will be slightly harsh on the road but great on track. Our road settings are 40Nmm fronts and 30Nmm rears, this gives a complient ride which is perfect for road use. We fitted the alloy rear links because bob had the 24mm ARB. This bar can cause the steel links to fail.
Rich
Powerstation
Bob had our track set up 50Nmm front springs and 40Nmm rears. This will be slightly harsh on the road but great on track. Our road settings are 40Nmm fronts and 30Nmm rears, this gives a complient ride which is perfect for road use. We fitted the alloy rear links because bob had the 24mm ARB. This bar can cause the steel links to fail.
Rich
Powerstation
#21
Our 93 RA has a Whiteline rear bar on middle setting with metal drop links and standard front bar. It also has ASTs with 40 and 30 springs.
The car handles well with this set up and Im loathed to fit the front roll bar that Ive got on back order as it doesnt really understeer anymore and fitting the stiffer front will bring back this tendancy.
The 40/30 springs are too soft for track use and I had all the damper settings wacked on full for a track day last weekend. Even set to full hard the damping was too soft for my liking. Maybe stiffer springs will give me the control I want.
Mind you, you have to bear in mind that I removed a set of coilovers with what must have been the equivilents to 80 and 70 springs, they were ROCK hard so 40s and 30s feel like limo suspension in comparison
The car handles well with this set up and Im loathed to fit the front roll bar that Ive got on back order as it doesnt really understeer anymore and fitting the stiffer front will bring back this tendancy.
The 40/30 springs are too soft for track use and I had all the damper settings wacked on full for a track day last weekend. Even set to full hard the damping was too soft for my liking. Maybe stiffer springs will give me the control I want.
Mind you, you have to bear in mind that I removed a set of coilovers with what must have been the equivilents to 80 and 70 springs, they were ROCK hard so 40s and 30s feel like limo suspension in comparison
#22
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Hi Rich
Its been a few weeks now since having the suspension set up. It clanged a bit at first but has settled down now and I have to hit a large bump to hear anything.
The set up you gave me is great and I'm very happy with it. It really come on song when I pick up the speed and holds on to the bends at speed when my old set up would be frightening me to death. I thought this set up would only be good for the track and not the uk roads, but I thought wrong even through the lanes around my way which is very uneven the car sticks like glue and does not bounce around like it did before. Harden the suspension up for a smouth track and it like driving a go cart even when the car is sliding I feel quite safe, but that may be a combination of the suspension and the DCCD which I am also getting the hang of.
Thanks for all the good work you done to the motor mate.
Bob
Its been a few weeks now since having the suspension set up. It clanged a bit at first but has settled down now and I have to hit a large bump to hear anything.
The set up you gave me is great and I'm very happy with it. It really come on song when I pick up the speed and holds on to the bends at speed when my old set up would be frightening me to death. I thought this set up would only be good for the track and not the uk roads, but I thought wrong even through the lanes around my way which is very uneven the car sticks like glue and does not bounce around like it did before. Harden the suspension up for a smouth track and it like driving a go cart even when the car is sliding I feel quite safe, but that may be a combination of the suspension and the DCCD which I am also getting the hang of.
Thanks for all the good work you done to the motor mate.
Bob
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