just attempted to fit some eibachs DIY style........
#1
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.....gave up after 4 hrs on the first strut
Im pretty disappointed, having read threads on here with people saying 3 hrs to do all 4, can do it on the drive etc etc...
1. Getting the knuckle joint off takes the strength of the incredible hulk.
2. Removing the brake lines without bleeding them is a nightmare.
3. Anyone who says the springs dont need compressing is talking shyte, it is clearly visible they do.
4. Trying to undo that 17mm top hat nut is impossible - this is where i gave up
Top tip for people who are considering this DIY style - crack off the 17 mm top nut before you remove the strut.
I do have patience, hence 4 hrs for the first strut I can do a Downpipe in 45 minutes but im fecked when it comes to this.
BTW i did this in my garage, on stands with decent tools.
Chris (gutted )
calling powerstation, come in powerstation......
Im pretty disappointed, having read threads on here with people saying 3 hrs to do all 4, can do it on the drive etc etc...
1. Getting the knuckle joint off takes the strength of the incredible hulk.
2. Removing the brake lines without bleeding them is a nightmare.
3. Anyone who says the springs dont need compressing is talking shyte, it is clearly visible they do.
4. Trying to undo that 17mm top hat nut is impossible - this is where i gave up
Top tip for people who are considering this DIY style - crack off the 17 mm top nut before you remove the strut.
I do have patience, hence 4 hrs for the first strut I can do a Downpipe in 45 minutes but im fecked when it comes to this.
BTW i did this in my garage, on stands with decent tools.
Chris (gutted )
calling powerstation, come in powerstation......
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Glad you had fun! Seriously though, it is quite a large job, but it does get easier the more you do. A trick with the brake lines is to cut the square bracket with a hacksaw so you can open it up and don't have to undo the brake pipes.
I always undo the top mounts partially while the weight of the car is still on them.
Sounds like a good job you didn't get onto the rear ones. They are much more fiddly with the location of the top mounts being behind the rear seats.
Have another go and when you do it you'll be really satisfied with your hard work!
I always undo the top mounts partially while the weight of the car is still on them.
Sounds like a good job you didn't get onto the rear ones. They are much more fiddly with the location of the top mounts being behind the rear seats.
Have another go and when you do it you'll be really satisfied with your hard work!
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If you do do it DIY stylee, make sure you get the suspension geometry setup pretty damn quick.
I took on this little challenge a couple of years ago with a mate, and succeeded in doing the suspension in around 5 hours, having not done it before.
And it probably didn't take much more than another 5 hours to destroy my front Bridgestone S-02's
Just a good tip, don't think you can get away with it for too long as it is a costly delay you can do without.
Cheers
Simon
I took on this little challenge a couple of years ago with a mate, and succeeded in doing the suspension in around 5 hours, having not done it before.
And it probably didn't take much more than another 5 hours to destroy my front Bridgestone S-02's
Just a good tip, don't think you can get away with it for too long as it is a costly delay you can do without.
Cheers
Simon
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1) Steering or lower ball joint? undo nut and hammer hard from the side.. not on the thread.. it will just pop out.. otherwise.. large pry bar.
2) Cut a slot in the bracket after removing the clips.. then bend the bracket apart..
3) Agree 100% with you.. and anybody that dares try it without is mad.
4) undo the nut first.. if not then you will need to grip the piston with mole grips.. to do this use some sandpaper with the smooth bit onto the metal, and the grit in the mole grips..
Cant remember about oem scoob struts , but you can get sockets / rathets / spanners that allow you to get a decent allen key / allen socket on to hold the strut piston bit.
I would also say that I could do all four in less than 4hrs.. possibly 3.5 maybe 4..
David
2) Cut a slot in the bracket after removing the clips.. then bend the bracket apart..
3) Agree 100% with you.. and anybody that dares try it without is mad.
4) undo the nut first.. if not then you will need to grip the piston with mole grips.. to do this use some sandpaper with the smooth bit onto the metal, and the grit in the mole grips..
Cant remember about oem scoob struts , but you can get sockets / rathets / spanners that allow you to get a decent allen key / allen socket on to hold the strut piston bit.
I would also say that I could do all four in less than 4hrs.. possibly 3.5 maybe 4..
David
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Agree with David. Especially point no 3.
My comment for point 4: For the top nuts, I ground a hexagon on the end of a deep 17mm socket for a ring spanner, then there is room to drop an 8mm allen key down it. I could be persuaded to part with it, since my new struts have 19mm top nuts.
First time I did this, it took all day - 8 hours, with 3 being for the first strut . Second time took 4 hours, but there weren't any rusted up or extremely overtight bolts that time.
My comment for point 4: For the top nuts, I ground a hexagon on the end of a deep 17mm socket for a ring spanner, then there is room to drop an 8mm allen key down it. I could be persuaded to part with it, since my new struts have 19mm top nuts.
First time I did this, it took all day - 8 hours, with 3 being for the first strut . Second time took 4 hours, but there weren't any rusted up or extremely overtight bolts that time.
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Have built mine up but haven't fitted to the car yet. I struggled to undo the top nut manually, until I thought about using my air wrench piece of pish after that.
One of these might help & be a cheapie option:
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product.asp?p=060810013
D
[Edited by Dunk - 12/22/2003 1:34:01 PM]
One of these might help & be a cheapie option:
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product.asp?p=060810013
D
[Edited by Dunk - 12/22/2003 1:34:01 PM]
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mine was done in about 2 hours for all 4
i was supposed to be helping but i just drunk cups of tea instead
actualy i loosend off the top strut nuts, but thats as much as i did, jack the car right up so both wheels lift and do 1 side then the other
its scarey how fast i can change the springs in my coilovers now 1 nut on the pillowball mount and 2 on the bottom of the shocks and there out
i was supposed to be helping but i just drunk cups of tea instead
actualy i loosend off the top strut nuts, but thats as much as i did, jack the car right up so both wheels lift and do 1 side then the other
its scarey how fast i can change the springs in my coilovers now 1 nut on the pillowball mount and 2 on the bottom of the shocks and there out
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#8
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a small note to add:
we had to use the standerd jack to raise the rear suspension as we were working againts the rear antiroll bar and stuff
not a large problem tho
we had to use the standerd jack to raise the rear suspension as we were working againts the rear antiroll bar and stuff
not a large problem tho
#9
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sod it...
im booked in on monday to have em done
a friend of my dads works at a rapid fit and is fitting them for £50 cash inc alignment
then im off to powerstaion to get me bumpsteer done in the new year
im booked in on monday to have em done
a friend of my dads works at a rapid fit and is fitting them for £50 cash inc alignment
then im off to powerstaion to get me bumpsteer done in the new year
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lol, seen
no worries now, getting them done on monday by someone else
one question though:
Which way round do the springs go, ie one pair are shorter than the other ?
its just so i can confirm with the guy fitting them,
cheers
chris
no worries now, getting them done on monday by someone else
one question though:
Which way round do the springs go, ie one pair are shorter than the other ?
its just so i can confirm with the guy fitting them,
cheers
chris
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