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will be ordering a perrin reverse lockout lifter from scoobyclinic after my holiday as this gear stick rattle is driving me crazy, will throw in a short shift kit aswell while im there
Dropped the car off at thwaites for 2 weeks whilst I'm away, brembos being removed and sent to Ian @ Godspeed for a full refurb and colour change. Mark is also gonna check my fuel pressure and swap out my induction kit which is past its best and replace with an rcm version.
Also a slight knocking from front N/S when breaking to a standstill will be investigated.
had some pictures from ian @ godspeed today of my rebuilt calipers, looking great in bright porsche red with white logo's. also ordered a set of black mud flaps with pink sti logo on from scoobyworld.
so ive owned this car for a year now an ive got everything how i want it......................apart from the power.350bhp simply will not do and as i have standard rods i am left with only a few options.
-risk the standard rods and go for 400bhp
-split the block and replace the rods with uprated ones and maybe re-fresh the bearings aswell
-sell my engine and have an engine built to my spec from scratch
i think option 2 is probably the way im headed, paul finch quoted around £2500 to split and rebuild with new rods/gaskets etc but i will speak with a few others aswell.
also i fancy an aftermarket ecu, could do with a couple of maps/anti-lag/launch and the safety features aswell. looking at either a simtek or a link g4.
looks like next year will be expensive.
Can't beat a link G4 for the money involved, do everything you need, rolling launch too which I think syvecs doesn't even do. So simple to map too.
a lot cheaper to set up tablet display etc.
(tbf I hadn't told anyone yet but, I've sold my syvecs set up, only because my engine is not in yet so now would be the best time to do it otherwise I wouldn't of done), looking to have a tablet display set up instead of the tiny toucan or the expensive Bluetooth dongle (which has been replaced by a new one at £400+ and then to buy an expensive iPad!) so made sense.
oh and I have plenty of money left from it to save towards my turbo.
I get my link at trade price too lol, So for ME made sense.
Last edited by bustaMOVEs; 13 September 2018 at 09:07 PM.
-scoobyworld gearknob
-new set of mats for the interior
-and finally a new fresh engine build and sell my current engine OR split this one and add uprated rods
so the car is back in the bodyshop for a front bumper re-paint, they have also done me a good deal on a full paint correction so it will be looking mint again very very soon..........(until I wash it again lol)
also been over to paul finch who has fitted me an obp 3 port oil catch can, very helpful guy he is and highly recommended.
next up for her is a possible sale, I have been in my new house for 6 months and there is so much I want to do to it and whilst I'm spending on the impreza I cant see me ever getting it done.
so ive pretty much decided on the spec of my new engine, my current block will be being split and rebuilt (providing its all in good order). makes sense as its alread a closed deck block with mahle 2618 pistons.
-split block and check bores
-if all ok then a quick hone and 14mm head-stud conversion
-re-ring the pistons
-re-use crank (if still in tolerance)
-manley H-tuff rods with arp 625 rod bolts
-block and heads re-faced
-heads fully rebuilt
-new 11mm rcm oil pump
-rcm baffle plate
-killer b oil pick up pipe
-new rcm timing kit and water pump
-all gaskets and seals replaced
-rcm stopper head gaskets
-rcm 340lph fuel pump
-1000cc ID injectors
-rcm headers DEI wrapped
-harvey smith trick up-pipe DEI wrapped
-current downpipe DEI wrapped
-simtek OR link ecu with a meth map
just need to make my mind up on which turbo to go for, narrowed it down to either the precision 525bhp turbo or the md321v turbo
I'd consider arrow rods and omega pistons if it were me (can't get much better than them and with its reliability record it's hard to beat).
also consider the old style wrc type timing tensioner or rcm do their own version at a great extra cost with a added pulley wheel. (A must for high hp builds to stop jump at high rpms to avoid engine going )
I'd consider arrow rods and omega pistons if it were me (can't get much better than them and with its reliability record it's hard to beat).
also consider the old style wrc type timing tensioner or rcm do their own version at a great extra cost with a added pulley wheel. (A must for high hp builds to stop jump at high rpms to avoid engine going )
thanks buddy i will check it out.
forgot to say i will be looking at getting a lightweight pulley kit and an aftermarket rad aswell as mine is looking rather beat up...............and before anybody recommends mishimoto-they can sod off lol
Lightweight pulleys are not really needed, you want the damping from a stock rubber one to slow engine gradually instead of quickly as it's not good for engine components.
but loads use them without issues but just something to think about instead of spending the extra, I have one on mine only because it came with it....
Lightweight pulleys are not really needed, you want the damping from a stock rubber one to slow engine gradually instead of quickly as it's not good for engine components.
but loads use them without issues but just something to think about instead of spending the extra, I have one on mine only because it came with it....
I'd consider arrow rods and omega pistons if it were me (can't get much better than them and with its reliability record it's hard to beat).
also consider the old style wrc type timing tensioner or rcm do their own version at a great extra cost with a added pulley wheel. (A must for high hp builds to stop jump at high rpms to avoid engine going )
08 July 2018 | 05:34 PM
