Closed deck blocks price
A thick walled block is not proven at 700+ unlike the tried n tested cdb. (Infact rcm sell thick walled ones fully built with omega pistons and arrow rods and dont sell them for above 500hp but instead list the cdb’s for 600+. That should tell you something) the thick walled blocks are indeed a better option new instead of the ej207 as the thick walled are more readily available atm.
Putting liners in a scd or odb doesn’t make the actual bore any thicker.
Buy once do it right first time depending on your goal.
Putting liners in a scd or odb doesn’t make the actual bore any thicker.
Buy once do it right first time depending on your goal.
Last edited by bustaMOVEs; Apr 2, 2018 at 02:58 PM.
main issue with factory CDB is the 4bolt bell housing that has proven to be a potential stress / fail point when combined with extreme use / sequential boxes........
we offer custom HD liners which are of a far higher material grade than anything the factory ever used
we offer custom HD liners which are of a far higher material grade than anything the factory ever used
Interesting alyn
So buying an old cdb is becoming less appealing to me now,I assume ideally as well as having the cdb converter to rear thrust,plus all the other machine work involved to get the block to a good standard it not only puts the costs up a fair bit but also a potentially flawed bell housing design.
I might just be swaying towards the N14 thick wall short engine
Would I be right in thinking the pistons in the N14 are only rated to 350bhp? What about the con rods?
So buying an old cdb is becoming less appealing to me now,I assume ideally as well as having the cdb converter to rear thrust,plus all the other machine work involved to get the block to a good standard it not only puts the costs up a fair bit but also a potentially flawed bell housing design.
I might just be swaying towards the N14 thick wall short engine

Would I be right in thinking the pistons in the N14 are only rated to 350bhp? What about the con rods?
What about closing the deck on the normal SCD block ?
AFAIK an older block that's been through the years of stress would be better ?
Did BMW not take old road engines back in the turbo era,
Of course it must be within spec still.
AFAIK an older block that's been through the years of stress would be better ?
Did BMW not take old road engines back in the turbo era,
Of course it must be within spec still.
Interesting alyn
So buying an old cdb is becoming less appealing to me now,I assume ideally as well as having the cdb converter to rear thrust,plus all the other machine work involved to get the block to a good standard it not only puts the costs up a fair bit but also a potentially flawed bell housing design.
I might just be swaying towards the N14 thick wall short engine
Would I be right in thinking the pistons in the N14 are only rated to 350bhp? What about the con rods?
So buying an old cdb is becoming less appealing to me now,I assume ideally as well as having the cdb converter to rear thrust,plus all the other machine work involved to get the block to a good standard it not only puts the costs up a fair bit but also a potentially flawed bell housing design.
I might just be swaying towards the N14 thick wall short engine

Would I be right in thinking the pistons in the N14 are only rated to 350bhp? What about the con rods?
Bare block i think

https://www.importcarparts.co.uk/par...y=&searchPart=
The ones from ICP don't come with pistons,
Bare block i think
https://www.importcarparts.co.uk/par...y=&searchPart=
Bare block i think

https://www.importcarparts.co.uk/par...y=&searchPart=
https://www.importcarparts.co.uk/par...earchKey=Short block&searchPart=
As Alyn has mentioned, the 4 bolt mating to the gearbox causes issues with big power & in my experience sequential boxes, that said I have seen it also on six speed boxes, from the photo's you can see a crack on the out side of the block, always the l/h side, usually shows itself as a small puddle of coolant, but on further digging it starts from the base of the head stud bore, so what you see on the surface as a weld able fix, is actually the end result of a internal failure.
What about closing the deck on the normal SCD block ?
AFAIK an older block that's been through the years of stress would be better ?
Did BMW not take old road engines back in the turbo era,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t5Dbp_SuMHE
Of course it must be within spec still.
AFAIK an older block that's been through the years of stress would be better ?
Did BMW not take old road engines back in the turbo era,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t5Dbp_SuMHE
Of course it must be within spec still.
main issue with factory CDB is the 4bolt bell housing that has proven to be a potential stress / fail point when combined with extreme use / sequential boxes........
we offer custom HD liners which are of a far higher material grade than anything the factory ever used
we offer custom HD liners which are of a far higher material grade than anything the factory ever used
I guess the answer too the original question is...Not worth a great deal of money at all.
I'm pretty sure I won't be heading north of 500bhp in my daily road car so scd will do fine.
I shall be in touch alyn to discus my best option as I know you carry good stock off the shelf etc..
I just need to find somewhere to live first
I'm pretty sure I won't be heading north of 500bhp in my daily road car so scd will do fine.
I shall be in touch alyn to discus my best option as I know you carry good stock off the shelf etc..
I just need to find somewhere to live first
N14 with closed deck liners should be a good block but then that could end up pricey after chosen parts to build are put into mix.
Hence the cdb works out better as it's a proven block, although if you are running a sequential box then you have a bit of money behind you and can afford if it goes wrong as even big power engines don't last long before something letting go, so part of tuning I'm afraid.
If you want reliable, don't mod and buy a new car on lease or pcp every 3-5 years hahaha.
Hence the cdb works out better as it's a proven block, although if you are running a sequential box then you have a bit of money behind you and can afford if it goes wrong as even big power engines don't last long before something letting go, so part of tuning I'm afraid.
If you want reliable, don't mod and buy a new car on lease or pcp every 3-5 years hahaha.
The 'weaker' bell housing on the cdb would worry me if going BIG power,sounds like the scd with inserts and stronger liners+quality internals would be the way to go.
Might be more expensive but 'build once' so the saying goes.
Might be more expensive but 'build once' so the saying goes.
I don't think that's as common tbh, more so common if going sequential as alyn and finch says
As Alyn has mentioned, the 4 bolt mating to the gearbox causes issues with big power & in my experience sequential boxes, that said I have seen it also on six speed boxes, from the photo's you can see a crack on the out side of the block, always the l/h side, usually shows itself as a small puddle of coolant, but on further digging it starts from the base of the head stud bore, so what you see on the surface as a weld able fix, is actually the end result of a internal failure.
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