I know I'm not the first to have this problem and not the first to put together some kind of guide for the repair but when I had this problem a few months ago most of the guides or forum post with any images I could find were full of dead photobucket links. I also had to do a bit of searching and double checking to make sure I ordered the correct thread repair kits.

So, as I take pictures of everything I ever do to any car I ever own , I thought I'd put together a guide that I've put on my website. No dead PB image links and hopefully all the info anyone needs to get the right repair kits and do a repair for themselves. For anyone not sure the Forester STI Brembo's are the same as on and Impreza

Link: http://www.noisymini.com/forester-st...liper-threads/


If this would be better placed somewhere else then please do.

noisymini

www.noisymini.com

 

Nice write up , &,detailed pics , credit to you ,
I would lube your new bolts tho with a white high temp marine grease , as it’s designed for moisture & water barrier , lol

 

Aye, decent. When my rears went, Ian Godney at Godspeed did them by return.

By this time, wouldn't you think, wouldn't any decent, thinking person think, that Brembo, such a vaunted make, would put stainless inserts in as a matter of course?

Just too many of these hyped up makes out there that aren't half they are cracked up to be, Brembo, MoMo, Recaro, all over-priced cr@p.

 

+1 above but people buy the name of products and not how good they are.

 

Cheers. Yeah you're right and I did, should have mentioned it in the guide. Might edit it actually.

I usually use copper anti seize stuff but apparently that's not a good choice for aluminium components so I just used a general grease as it's all I had at the time. Since buying an S1 Elise which has lots of aluminium components held together with steel bolts I got some Corrosion Block Grease as it's what's recommended. So next time the FSTI brakes are off I will reassemble with some of that.

This is the stuff: https://www.eliseparts.com/products/...-block-grease/

 

Nice write up.


I did this to my Impreza callipers years ago myself in my workshop. Was quite simple.


The only thing I'd add to your procedure is that I put a tiny bit of high strength high temperature thread retainer (Loctite 648) onto the outer helicoil threads as they went into the callipers to ensure that they would always stay in the callipers. Once done, it's also good practice to use copper grease on the bolt threads into the helicoils.

 

Yep , people get the wrong illusion, copper grease is good for everything . I don’t put it any place where weather erosion takes place .

 

The trouble with the white marine grade grease you mentioned above is that it's PTFE based (as in Teflon) and as such nothing sticks to it at all. I wouldn't use that on bolt threads personally for the potential risk of thread slippage.


Most mechanics (any good mechanics) will use copper ease great on all bolt threads, calliper bolts included.


I used white marine PTFE crease on the outside threads that were exposed on my coilovers to try protect them from the elements a little, seems to have worked just fine so far.

 

^
Nonsense

 

Yes that's correct. It's protective but by nature PTFE is a slippery compound. In fact to get anything at all to stick to a PTFE material you actually need to introduce a corrosive etching compound to the material. By nature PTFE is anti-friction, which is why it's used in bearing materials worldwide.

I would not use a PTFE white anti-friction compound on bolt threads as critical as calliper bolts that need to be retained in their threads.

This is general engineering practice in many industries.

You'll find a lot of the white grease compounds available contain PTFE. If your white zinc oxide grease doesn't contain it then you're probably ok to be honest.

 

Ok m8 . I’ve only been building trucks , bikes n cars for 35 years , I’ll try some jam next time see if that sticks lol

 

LOL. No problems mate. I've only been building cars, bikes, turbines, nuclear power stations, critical shutdown equipment & military defence infrastructure around the world for the last 25 years.


I'm sure we are both right though. Everyone is allowed their opinions based on their knowledge and experiences. No need to get bitchy on a friendly discussion. It's all good.


xxx

 

You might be a bitch , but I’m not calling you one x

I’ll try a diff approach
My calipers , I’ve just rebuilt , still using the original bolts bar 2 , in the 9 years of the cars life the calipers have been stripped twice , so this is there 3rd build from factory .
So I never use copper grease on brake bolts , yes I use copper slip all the time that’s why I have a big tub ... only ever used marine grade white for the truck 3rd one now , scores of bikes & cars & even dare I say it a shopping trolley ( just kidding .
So my brakes come off the car every time with ease , no stress , not hard brake bars just a ratchet & a ring spanner . Now if it where a problem , don’t you think I’d have noticed taking them off ?
& on another note I know countless people who would not apply copper to certain applications but we won’t go there lol

 

Ps
They came off
Gold off
Blue &
Now yellow , you can even see the white , on the bolts in the yellow pic , those bolts look mighty fine to me , sure I buffed them back up with the new refurb but they still goin strong me lad xxx

 

They will come off, that's my argument. White grease is like anti-seize compound you put on bolts. It'll help you get the bolts undone no problems at all. But my only point with this discussion is that I don't want my critical calliper retaining bolts coming undone that easy or by themselves.


Anyhow, lets hug and move on.


Nice discs by the way. They look lovely. What did you spray all your calliper bits with? Did you take the tape off the discs before you used them again?

 

I’d love a big hug
I decided this time to have all the bolts nuts & fixings plated / never been a fan of painted caliper half bolts . Also wanted to look a little diff so painted the pad retain plates .
Paint is RAL 1026,
Performance friction discs wich I cleaned up new / hence the tape . Fitted speed bleeders to all calipers for ease . Turned out canny good , although I’m a bit shy ( & the car def isn’t now ) but I’m considering selling it this summer so see how it goes .lol

 

That's lovely mate. Really like that car. Nice job!

 

Thank you