Toad 606 - better than ECU immobiliser?
My car alarm has finally packed up, and I'm planning to get another one. I have a MY97 UK Turbo 2000, which has a built in key-proximity immobiliser.
Would installing a decent immobiliser like a Toad 606 make the car harder to steal, or am I just wasting money seeing as the car already has a factory fitted immobiliser? I'm not sure how a thief would defeat this anyway, since it's built in to the ECU (I'm assuming). My alternative option is just to buy an alarm with no immobiliser.
Would installing a decent immobiliser like a Toad 606 make the car harder to steal, or am I just wasting money seeing as the car already has a factory fitted immobiliser? I'm not sure how a thief would defeat this anyway, since it's built in to the ECU (I'm assuming). My alternative option is just to buy an alarm with no immobiliser.
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From: The hell where youth and laughter go
Personally, I'd go for a cat1 system such as the Ai606 (make sure the installation is done to cat1 standard). The more security on the car; The better.
The chip in key immobiliser is good, but it can be defeated by swapping the ECU. Obviously, not many thieves walk round with spare ECUs, but its not unheard of.
Would also seriously consider a mechanical form of immobilisation; Cat3 Wheel clamp or Cat3 Disklok. As these give far better visual deterants than electronic security. Bearing in mind the damage caused by a thief trying to steel a car and failing is sometimes just as bad.
The chip in key immobiliser is good, but it can be defeated by swapping the ECU. Obviously, not many thieves walk round with spare ECUs, but its not unheard of.
Would also seriously consider a mechanical form of immobilisation; Cat3 Wheel clamp or Cat3 Disklok. As these give far better visual deterants than electronic security. Bearing in mind the damage caused by a thief trying to steel a car and failing is sometimes just as bad.
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No, or yes
it depends on whether your alarm installer bypasses the factory immobilser or not, some do and some dont (as some factory alarms are useless) but you can have both working together.
Tony
it depends on whether your alarm installer bypasses the factory immobilser or not, some do and some dont (as some factory alarms are useless) but you can have both working together.Tony
Personally, I'd go for a cat1 system such as the Ai606 (make sure the installation is done to cat1 standard). The more security on the car; The better.
The chip in key immobiliser is good, but it can be defeated by swapping the ECU. Obviously, not many thieves walk round with spare ECUs, but its not unheard of.
Would also seriously consider a mechanical form of immobilisation; Cat3 Wheel clamp or Cat3 Disklok. As these give far better visual deterants than electronic security. Bearing in mind the damage caused by a thief trying to steel a car and failing is sometimes just as bad.
The chip in key immobiliser is good, but it can be defeated by swapping the ECU. Obviously, not many thieves walk round with spare ECUs, but its not unheard of.
Would also seriously consider a mechanical form of immobilisation; Cat3 Wheel clamp or Cat3 Disklok. As these give far better visual deterants than electronic security. Bearing in mind the damage caused by a thief trying to steel a car and failing is sometimes just as bad.
I guess if they were prepared to swap the ECU, they'd be prepared to bypass an aftermarket ECU. I've never installed one before, but I'm guessing it's simply a bunch of relays installed in series with the crank sensor, ignition and fuel pump. Shouldn't be too hard to re-connect the cables.
Anyway, I'm going to have a think and I might get one anyway. I definitely need an alarm regardless!
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