Classic x plate upgrades
10 December 2011, 01:29 PM
#1
Classic x plate upgrades
Hey everyone
Whats a few basic upgrades you can do to a subaru classic, At the min, im thinking off the following
turbo
dump valve
sti top intercooler
air filter
decat
exhaust
Im sure you've all herd this before and answered the same questions once again, but how do i go about fitting a dump valve to the subaru and upgarding the turbo?
Is there a how 2 section on here any where
Thanks everyone
Whats a few basic upgrades you can do to a subaru classic, At the min, im thinking off the following
turbo
dump valve
sti top intercooler
air filter
decat
exhaust
Im sure you've all herd this before and answered the same questions once again, but how do i go about fitting a dump valve to the subaru and upgarding the turbo?
Is there a how 2 section on here any where
Thanks everyone
10 December 2011, 01:48 PM
#2
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Add in a remap to that list, Most people here will advise you to leave the standard recirc valve fitted, stay clear of induction kits as well a decent make panel filter is more than adequate
10 December 2011, 02:51 PM
#4
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On an MY00 X plate you're going to need an ECUtek remap to support those mods. Its not just a case of bolting bits on and going faster.
MY00's have a cat in the up pipe and downpipe so you might want to look for an Sti up pipe as well. Also, get a 3 port boost solenoid to help with all the other mods.
If you're only going to change the top mount then you're clearly not after huge power so a panel filter will be fine but you should also be fitting an uprated fuel pump.
A VF series turbo is a good upgrade (28, 34, 35) depending on budget and power expectations.
I take it you've got £1200-£1500 to spend on these upgrades, including remap??
MY00's have a cat in the up pipe and downpipe so you might want to look for an Sti up pipe as well. Also, get a 3 port boost solenoid to help with all the other mods.
If you're only going to change the top mount then you're clearly not after huge power so a panel filter will be fine but you should also be fitting an uprated fuel pump.
A VF series turbo is a good upgrade (28, 34, 35) depending on budget and power expectations.
I take it you've got £1200-£1500 to spend on these upgrades, including remap??
10 December 2011, 03:04 PM
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On an MY00 X plate you're going to need an ECUtek remap to support those mods. Its not just a case of bolting bits on and going faster.
MY00's have a cat in the up pipe and downpipe so you might want to look for an Sti up pipe as well. Also, get a 3 port boost solenoid to help with all the other mods.
If you're only going to change the top mount then you're clearly not after huge power so a panel filter will be fine but you should also be fitting an uprated fuel pump.
A VF series turbo is a good upgrade (28, 34, 35) depending on budget and power expectations.
I take it you've got £1200-£1500 to spend on these upgrades, including remap??
MY00's have a cat in the up pipe and downpipe so you might want to look for an Sti up pipe as well. Also, get a 3 port boost solenoid to help with all the other mods.
If you're only going to change the top mount then you're clearly not after huge power so a panel filter will be fine but you should also be fitting an uprated fuel pump.
A VF series turbo is a good upgrade (28, 34, 35) depending on budget and power expectations.
I take it you've got £1200-£1500 to spend on these upgrades, including remap??
10 December 2011, 03:11 PM
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They have different characteristics.
28 is a standard fit on a P1, spools nicely, makes 300-320bhp comfortably and is a roller bearing turbo
35 is slightly different to a 28, spools quickly and can make up to 350bhp
34 is very similar to a 35 but is a sleeve bearing turbo, know to make up to 360bhp or more.
You're going to need to do some reading up chap. You're asking some very basic questions for someone who's about to spend 2k on a power hunt and if you're planning on fitting everything yourself then i'll wish you good luck.
Fuel pump, filter, exhaust etc are all diy jobs, front mount is harder as you'll have to take the front bumper off and trim it to get the pipework to fit, plus you'll need an induction kit so you can remove the airbox for the FMIC pipework.
Turbo swap is a bit of a pain but not too bad.
Theres threads all over scoobynet on how to do things, what other people have done and things to avoid etc so I'd suggest doing some reading.
If you want to take the hassle out of it all, source a turbo, up pipe and exhaust then take it to somewhere like Scoobyworld, Clinic etc for a quote to fit it all and remap it. Should come in under 2k and you'll save a lot of aggro.
28 is a standard fit on a P1, spools nicely, makes 300-320bhp comfortably and is a roller bearing turbo
35 is slightly different to a 28, spools quickly and can make up to 350bhp
34 is very similar to a 35 but is a sleeve bearing turbo, know to make up to 360bhp or more.
You're going to need to do some reading up chap. You're asking some very basic questions for someone who's about to spend 2k on a power hunt and if you're planning on fitting everything yourself then i'll wish you good luck.
Fuel pump, filter, exhaust etc are all diy jobs, front mount is harder as you'll have to take the front bumper off and trim it to get the pipework to fit, plus you'll need an induction kit so you can remove the airbox for the FMIC pipework.
Turbo swap is a bit of a pain but not too bad.
Theres threads all over scoobynet on how to do things, what other people have done and things to avoid etc so I'd suggest doing some reading.
If you want to take the hassle out of it all, source a turbo, up pipe and exhaust then take it to somewhere like Scoobyworld, Clinic etc for a quote to fit it all and remap it. Should come in under 2k and you'll save a lot of aggro.
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10 December 2011, 04:36 PM
#8
Nobody has asked about the car..
How many miles has it done ?
Has it been cared for ?
What's the service record like ?
Remember these cars are getting old now, pushing a badly serviced high mileage engine to circa 300 ponies will in many cases end in upset.
It's the not the strongest of engines at best so tread carefully unless you have the funds to fix.
My personal opinion is a UK classic even with low'ish miles and good history should not be taken above 300bhp.
How many miles has it done ?
Has it been cared for ?
What's the service record like ?
Remember these cars are getting old now, pushing a badly serviced high mileage engine to circa 300 ponies will in many cases end in upset.
It's the not the strongest of engines at best so tread carefully unless you have the funds to fix.
My personal opinion is a UK classic even with low'ish miles and good history should not be taken above 300bhp.
10 December 2011, 04:47 PM
#9
Panel filter £40
Decat and back box ( if not allready done ) £300-£450
Remap. £500
But as pointed out above its a car that is 11years old and your thinking of engine mods to go faster ?
Better money spent on uprated pads ,braided brake lines ,eibach springs bushes ,droplinks and geometry done say £600 first that would be money better spend
Also what condition is the arches in bear in mind that will cost you £500 + one day
£200-£300 on machine polishing and top quality wax and sealants would transform the body
As pointed out think we need a bit info first before spending £2000 on a car that is worth only that .
Decat and back box ( if not allready done ) £300-£450
Remap. £500
But as pointed out above its a car that is 11years old and your thinking of engine mods to go faster ?
Better money spent on uprated pads ,braided brake lines ,eibach springs bushes ,droplinks and geometry done say £600 first that would be money better spend
Also what condition is the arches in bear in mind that will cost you £500 + one day
£200-£300 on machine polishing and top quality wax and sealants would transform the body
As pointed out think we need a bit info first before spending £2000 on a car that is worth only that .
10 December 2011, 07:01 PM
#11
Hopefully it's clear, but just in case:
1. your car already HAS a dumpvalve.
2. It is a recriculating type, the one fitted by Subaru for a reason.
3. There is NO NEED to change it below 500bhp.
4. You DO NOT get more power by fitting any other type, just a daft noise.
1. your car already HAS a dumpvalve.
2. It is a recriculating type, the one fitted by Subaru for a reason.
3. There is NO NEED to change it below 500bhp.
4. You DO NOT get more power by fitting any other type, just a daft noise.
10 December 2011, 08:54 PM
#13
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the standard recirc on mine is very loud due to the induction kit and FMIC so I dont see why anyone would want to fit something else, other than to cause issues they dont need.
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