scoobzie

what would be my best modding route ie ,best power for a classic just for the road and what turbo i no the gearbox wont take alot but if that were to be changed over to a p1 box then what are my limits etc

leecalcars

iTrader: (37)

in the process with modding my00 classic aswell i have a japspeed decat downpipe, kn57i induction kit,standered headers heat wrapped walbro 255 fuel pump with simtec ecu mapped by duncan from race dynamics ,ej25 fitted producing 290 ish bhp and 340lb/ft torque with a tdo4 ,looking for a vf35 next mod then new organic clutch and lightened flywheel before tweek on present map.

f4la k

iTrader: (1)

The p1 box isnt any better, if your goin for big power you want a scooby clinic gearset or go 6 speed. I'm not a lover of 6 speed so it would be sc gearset for me

scoobzie

am not after big power just around 360 to 380 if the engine will hold out i,ve had a modded turbo before but only running 280 bhp with the same torque

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

I'm assuming that both you and Lee have done the most pressing mods first: brakes and suspension?

If not, that's a good place to start.

Be VERY careful about advice on here: you are better talking to an experienced tuner, or you'll find yourself first trying to sift out the "it'll be OK, trust me, it worked on my RST", boys and then, if you get it wrong, paying for an EXPENSIVE rebuild

The UK cars aren't the best for tuning.........

TonyBurns

iTrader: (3)

Can we start with a budget and model year?
I am assuming you have a MY99/00 car, 97/98's are the most expensive to upgrade due to the lack of a mappable ecu.
Say for example 1000 quid, for that your not going to do much, brake upgrade and a remap, thats all it will cover, boost you up from 215bhp to around 240-250bhp.
If you go breathing mods then 270bhp is a more acceptable figure.
If you want 380bhp then your in an area where its "how long before something breaks" if you dont upgrade parts like the clutch/engine/gearbox, and those will cost you a fair bit to do correctly (ie circa 10k, which is MY05 STI money and for the cost of your classic you have a much better starting base).
Classics are not cheap to tune, end of, engines and gearboxes (especially the pre 99 turbo's gearbox) are weak compared to the later new age cars, I would really look at your budget and realistically decide if you want to even go down this route because its going to cost you a fortune to do right, and skimping/cutting corners will only lead to one broken car, because it will break.

Tony

leecalcars

iTrader: (37)

yes alcazar my very first mod was to change standered suspension for kyb struts and eibach springs, then fully refurb of 4pots and new GG discs (forgot to mention this sorry)

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

No probs, many don't know that it's a sensible first couple of mods before the engine.

leecalcars

iTrader: (37)

Didn't want to mislead anyone, but totally agree with brakes and suspension 1st couple of mods,will be upgrading my brakes again next year to 6pots so better still.

ukimpreza

iTrader: (9)

ive got a classic and building it for 350 - 400 bhp over winter, so far just on parts ive spent £2000 like tonyburns said cheaper to mod a new age or buy a decent sti for starters (wish i had).

Steve T

iTrader: (14)

I modded my last car, a Uk classic spending thousands, Vf 35 etc etc. As Tony says your better starting of with a newage Sti and in my opinion a Jdm Sti. Steve.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Tony is right, of course, but when you DO mod a classic you don't need as much power as the newage cars, as classics only weigh 1250kg.

And surprising some sportscar owners with your old shed is great

Martin 2010

iTrader: (9)

I have done the following to my uk turbo 2000,

Apexi ecu
3" decat
3" all the way through blitz system.
550cc injectors ( although 440cc will do )
VF35 Turbo
Walbro 255 fuel pump
FMIC ( although not needed for power im running)
induction kit.
mapped by fb tuning

all on std box clutch etc all holding out v well at present and got 327.7 bhp at 325lb/ft on the dyno.

TonyBurns

iTrader: (3)

But all those mods add weight you need bigger bits to make it better
Though your wallet is normally lighter!

Tony

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Nah: I took off cast headers and replaced with fabricated, removed my huge airbox, MAF and undertray, at least 20kg the lot.

New turbo maybe a bit heavier, FMIC? Maybe too, but overall, nowt in it

And I now have 400+/400+ to play with

phil739

iTrader: (30)

[quote=leecalcars;9736325] producing 290 ish bhp and 340lb/ft torque with a tdo4 ,quote]

standard td04?