Help....Gauge fitting trying my patience.
#1
Help....Gauge fitting trying my patience.
Right got my set of defis yesterday, garage cant get the car in for about two weeks so i thought sod it il have a go... and OH dear its not going good so i have a few questions that need answering please all.
First of all with the oil filter adaptor plate does both the oil pressure and oil temp screw in here as there is two respective holes for the senders, only i thought one of them went on top of the 3rd cylinder somewhere.
secondly does the power supply have to come from battery direct or can yo just tee everything of the little clock and which is the wire for the ignition
Im just having some breakfast now (tea and 3 shreadded wheat) and then i might venture to the shed and have another go but would like a few responses first as, to be honest electrics/wiring is not my strong point.
thanks all in advance.
First of all with the oil filter adaptor plate does both the oil pressure and oil temp screw in here as there is two respective holes for the senders, only i thought one of them went on top of the 3rd cylinder somewhere.
secondly does the power supply have to come from battery direct or can yo just tee everything of the little clock and which is the wire for the ignition
Im just having some breakfast now (tea and 3 shreadded wheat) and then i might venture to the shed and have another go but would like a few responses first as, to be honest electrics/wiring is not my strong point.
thanks all in advance.
#3
My recommended fitting can be fiddly to do - and requires pulling a few engine ancillaries out of the way, and if you don't mind me saying - if you were going to book it in to a garage to get gauges fitted because of lack of mechanical knowledge, I'd suggest keeping it simple and using the pressure plate!
#5
you'll probably have to get some more wire and extend them. I've never fitted defi's - am I right thinking that the gauges draw their power from the control box, and the control box connects to the car?
I'd probably use the switched live from the head unit as a power source; usually that has more than enough capacity to handle something I'd guess was fairly low draw. My concern would be that the power wire for the clock might not have enough capacity to feed a set of defi's; so I'd be looking for a more "chunky" switched live and earth.
(I take no responsibilities for you blowing your car up though!)
I'd probably use the switched live from the head unit as a power source; usually that has more than enough capacity to handle something I'd guess was fairly low draw. My concern would be that the power wire for the clock might not have enough capacity to feed a set of defi's; so I'd be looking for a more "chunky" switched live and earth.
(I take no responsibilities for you blowing your car up though!)
#7
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Here and there
Posts: 8,353
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Defi senders are quite simple to fit really.All you need to do is remove the intercooler and alternator for easy access,undo the bung over no3 cylinder using an 8mm alan key or similar and screw the oil temp adaptor plate in there,the oil temp sender then screws into that (making sure that you wrap the threads in PTFE before screwing them in.The oil Pressure sender simply replaces the OE sender under the alternator put everything back together daisy chain the wires to the gauges and job done.If it is a newage car then take the feed for the boost sender from the pipe on the dumpvalve
Trending Topics
#10
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: 392/361 MY04 STi
Posts: 7,638
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
the sandwich adaptor is only for ease of fitting. I was told when buying.
I still bought it as the cost of it over the workshop hour difference was about the same, so thought WTH.
I still bought it as the cost of it over the workshop hour difference was about the same, so thought WTH.
#11
so gaz are yours fitted using the adaptor then, and to be honest i could do the oil change at the same time. i pressume the intercooler still has to come out so you can get the wires back to the pod area through a grommit that is there somewhere im told.
#14
Theres an "empty" rubber grommet just below the brake servo. From inside the car you should be able to feel it if you get your hand up under the drivers side dash, up-right of the clutch pedal (if I remember right). It seems like a very long way up behind the dash when your inside the car.
#15
Scooby Senior
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Slowly rebuilding the kit of bits into a car...
Posts: 14,333
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I used the four wires from the clock to supply :-
1. Earth
2. +12v
3. Switched ignition live
4. Illumination
Sandwich plate is easy option, and won't be far out in readings....
HTH
DunxC
1. Earth
2. +12v
3. Switched ignition live
4. Illumination
Sandwich plate is easy option, and won't be far out in readings....
HTH
DunxC
#17
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Bebind the wheel of my red rice rocket
Posts: 5,585
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Defi senders are quite simple to fit really.All you need to do is remove the intercooler and alternator for easy access,undo the bung over no3 cylinder using an 8mm alan key or similar and screw the oil temp adaptor plate in there,the oil temp sender then screws into that (making sure that you wrap the threads in PTFE before screwing them in.The oil Pressure sender simply replaces the OE sender under the alternator put everything back together daisy chain the wires to the gauges and job done.If it is a newage car then take the feed for the boost sender from the pipe on the dumpvalve
#18
stew.
#19
#20
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: clearfinish.co.uk
Posts: 188
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I took the power supply for my Defi Controller direct offf the ignition switch, wires need extending but just added a fuse holder to each wire with correct rated fuses
#21
this is what ive done yet i have no illumination after the opening sequence just the red LED's flashing. the opening sequence happens twice once when the key is turned once and second when the engine turns over, but still n illuminaton after the opning bit. WHAT THE F**K IS GOING ON.
#25
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (2)
I don't think it'll work perfectly if the senders aren't connected, mate, as the control box will see zero current, so show a fault situation.
Your four wires should be connected as follows:
Red= permanent live, 12V.
Orange= switched live, 12V.
White= vehicle lighting, sidelights, instrument lights etc.
Black= a decent earth. Mine is grounded beside the ecu via a ring terminal.
Alcazar
Your four wires should be connected as follows:
Red= permanent live, 12V.
Orange= switched live, 12V.
White= vehicle lighting, sidelights, instrument lights etc.
Black= a decent earth. Mine is grounded beside the ecu via a ring terminal.
Alcazar
#26
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (1)
Your red LED's are flashing cos you have not yet conected the sender units.
You need to check that the Illumination wire has a 12v feed when the lights are turned on!
Depending on the model & year of the Subaru, you could well find that the wire you have used for this is supplied with an earth to turn on the illumination, not 12v.
If you definately have a 12v feed, then try swapping the main lead from the control unit to the guages to Guage Output 2.
Phil
You need to check that the Illumination wire has a 12v feed when the lights are turned on!
Depending on the model & year of the Subaru, you could well find that the wire you have used for this is supplied with an earth to turn on the illumination, not 12v.
If you definately have a 12v feed, then try swapping the main lead from the control unit to the guages to Guage Output 2.
Phil
#28
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (2)
Have you READ my post in the other thread?
You HAVE to get the wiring for the control unit spot on, and ALL senders attached before it will work properly. The control box is a piece of electronic equipment and won't work properly unless supplied with the correct signals and the correct feeds.
To get the wiring right, you WILL need to test what wire is what. Just get one wrong and it'll all be out of kilter. Go out and buy a circuit tester NOW!!
Alcazar
You HAVE to get the wiring for the control unit spot on, and ALL senders attached before it will work properly. The control box is a piece of electronic equipment and won't work properly unless supplied with the correct signals and the correct feeds.
To get the wiring right, you WILL need to test what wire is what. Just get one wrong and it'll all be out of kilter. Go out and buy a circuit tester NOW!!
Alcazar
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Mattybr5@MB Developments
Full Cars Breaking For Spares
33
29 August 2017 07:18 PM
JonMc
Subaru Parts
22
06 February 2016 09:50 PM
matt12
ScoobyNet General
64
16 September 2015 09:16 PM
matt12
Engine Management and ECU Remapping
4
14 September 2015 09:36 AM