Hydraulic handbrake recommendations?
#4
Yes mate, I'm mainly focused on hillclimbing but I've been itching to have a go at Formula G for some time now... I've seen a couple of those kits on Demon Tweeks. I've also had a look at Compbrake's kits but not sure how good they are or also what I need exactly. What sort of master cylinder, bias valve, and so on.
#5
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (51)
Yes mate, I'm mainly focused on hillclimbing but I've been itching to have a go at Formula G for some time now... I've seen a couple of those kits on Demon Tweeks. I've also had a look at Compbrake's kits but not sure how good they are or also what I need exactly. What sort of master cylinder, bias valve, and so on.
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#10
Scooby Regular
See here:
https://apracing.com/race-car/pedal-...ake-assemblies
and speak to these people who I use myself for AP products.
http://www.bgdevelopments.co.uk/
https://apracing.com/race-car/pedal-...ake-assemblies
and speak to these people who I use myself for AP products.
http://www.bgdevelopments.co.uk/
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The following users liked this post:
#14
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (8)
I remember now I also had a friend who used obp habdbrake and the cheapo brake cylinder exploded on track.
I actually ordered 3 different handbrakes before settling on this one. Quality is excellent and uses a quality girling cylinder.
I welded a sealed platform next to my transmission tunnel to mount it on, a number of friends have since switched to these
https://www.grp4fabrications.com/pro...products_id=33
I actually ordered 3 different handbrakes before settling on this one. Quality is excellent and uses a quality girling cylinder.
I welded a sealed platform next to my transmission tunnel to mount it on, a number of friends have since switched to these
https://www.grp4fabrications.com/pro...products_id=33
#17
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (8)
You’ll need a 2port new age MC, remove the OE balance bar.
One port feeds the front, one feeds the rear.
Come out of the front port into a T then to front callipers
Come out of the rear port, down towards the back of the car. Into the brake bias valve. (Buy a Tilton one not cheap rubbish)
out of the bias valve into the single cylinder handbrake.
Out of the handbrake towards the back of the car, into a T then to the rear callipers. Simple !
In hillcliming its only really used for the launch. However really this needs coupling with a very good launch control strategy to get the best out of the setup. Not some crappy pops and bangs rubbish. At which point you can adjust the launch strategy accordingly.
For or years I just used the oem handbrake and that worked superb. Originally I taped the button in with insulation tape. Then later pinned it. The launches were on par with the hydro.
To do a handbrake properly your looking at around £350 minamun. That’s for MC, brake bias valve, handbrake, custom Hel lines.
So it’s not a cheap job. Depending on the spec of your car £350 could be spent else where to make you go quicker. New tyres, not used etc proper sprint brake pads. There’s loads of stuff, just depends how important the handbrake is, many do it for looks
One port feeds the front, one feeds the rear.
Come out of the front port into a T then to front callipers
Come out of the rear port, down towards the back of the car. Into the brake bias valve. (Buy a Tilton one not cheap rubbish)
out of the bias valve into the single cylinder handbrake.
Out of the handbrake towards the back of the car, into a T then to the rear callipers. Simple !
In hillcliming its only really used for the launch. However really this needs coupling with a very good launch control strategy to get the best out of the setup. Not some crappy pops and bangs rubbish. At which point you can adjust the launch strategy accordingly.
For or years I just used the oem handbrake and that worked superb. Originally I taped the button in with insulation tape. Then later pinned it. The launches were on par with the hydro.
To do a handbrake properly your looking at around £350 minamun. That’s for MC, brake bias valve, handbrake, custom Hel lines.
So it’s not a cheap job. Depending on the spec of your car £350 could be spent else where to make you go quicker. New tyres, not used etc proper sprint brake pads. There’s loads of stuff, just depends how important the handbrake is, many do it for looks
#18
You’ll need a 2port new age MC, remove the OE balance bar.
One port feeds the front, one feeds the rear.
Come out of the front port into a T then to front callipers
Come out of the rear port, down towards the back of the car. Into the brake bias valve. (Buy a Tilton one not cheap rubbish)
out of the bias valve into the single cylinder handbrake.
Out of the handbrake towards the back of the car, into a T then to the rear callipers. Simple !
In hillcliming its only really used for the launch. However really this needs coupling with a very good launch control strategy to get the best out of the setup. Not some crappy pops and bangs rubbish. At which point you can adjust the launch strategy accordingly.
For or years I just used the oem handbrake and that worked superb. Originally I taped the button in with insulation tape. Then later pinned it. The launches were on par with the hydro.
To do a handbrake properly your looking at around £350 minamun. That’s for MC, brake bias valve, handbrake, custom Hel lines.
So it’s not a cheap job. Depending on the spec of your car £350 could be spent else where to make you go quicker. New tyres, not used etc proper sprint brake pads. There’s loads of stuff, just depends how important the handbrake is, many do it for looks
One port feeds the front, one feeds the rear.
Come out of the front port into a T then to front callipers
Come out of the rear port, down towards the back of the car. Into the brake bias valve. (Buy a Tilton one not cheap rubbish)
out of the bias valve into the single cylinder handbrake.
Out of the handbrake towards the back of the car, into a T then to the rear callipers. Simple !
In hillcliming its only really used for the launch. However really this needs coupling with a very good launch control strategy to get the best out of the setup. Not some crappy pops and bangs rubbish. At which point you can adjust the launch strategy accordingly.
For or years I just used the oem handbrake and that worked superb. Originally I taped the button in with insulation tape. Then later pinned it. The launches were on par with the hydro.
To do a handbrake properly your looking at around £350 minamun. That’s for MC, brake bias valve, handbrake, custom Hel lines.
So it’s not a cheap job. Depending on the spec of your car £350 could be spent else where to make you go quicker. New tyres, not used etc proper sprint brake pads. There’s loads of stuff, just depends how important the handbrake is, many do it for looks
I'm actually building the Type R now. Just bought a forged EJ207 block and got a six speed on the way. I'm not really wanting the hydro for hillclimbing but more for Formula G next year.
#19
Scooby Regular
The handbrake M/cyl goes into the rear brake line. 2 ports, one in, one out. That assumes you're not running abs. If you are, you need a specialised cyl.
Pipes can be normal steel ones, cut and flared to length. Most garages can make those.
Pipes can be normal steel ones, cut and flared to length. Most garages can make those.
#20
Joe, what you said about the Newage MC, did you mean the main one in the bay or did you mean for the handbrake itself? I'm still a bit confused about how these work. I actually though you had the front brakes left untouched, and then the rear lines from the MC went into the hydro.
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