Hi all recently just purchased act 2001 Subaru in WRX with 85,000 miles few mods done to it prodrive exhaust de cat mapped to 270bhp cobb cold air induction filter 4 new toyo proxie tyres and that's about it so cut a long story short when I'm driving I've notice when I put my foot down the boost gauge fluctuates between 0.5 bar to 1.0 bar this is when doing around 70 mph I've done a smoke test on the engine and could only find the old dumpvalve had a leak so replaced that with a brand new forge one I also cleaned the boost solenoid with some brake cleaner and I'm still having the same problem I've took the cobb induction filter off aswell and fitted that standard box with a panel filter any one have any ideas would be much appreciated 👍🏻

 

Hi mate put some pictures up

In terms of your issues try cleaning the MAF

Do you know what mods it was mapped to and are you resetting the ecu every time you are changing parts

Have you checked that your gauge is working

 

Haven't tried cleaning the maf do I just spray that with some brake cleaner ???how would I go about re setting the ecu ??? the guy who I had bought it off had it mapped everything was standard on it once he had 'had it mapped he bought a cobb induction filter And put that on and took one of the cats out of it since ive owned it all I have done was put the standard air box and panel
Filter back on it and also replaced the dumpvalve

 

The map is now pretty useless with the Cat and induction kit removed and maybe causing internal damage.

To reset the ECU disconnect the battery overnight to be safe or get a OBD Diagnostic Tool that will do it for you. Resetting the ECU will not reset the map. The map is written to the ECU and is mapped to run with the mods you have removed.

DO NOT USE BRAKE CLEANER. Use correct electrical contact cleaner when cleaning the MAF.

The OE Subaru DV's are by far the best to use unless you are attention seeking.

 

Newages dont reset that way due to their NVM, like a Classic will.

(Only guessing its a 2001 Bugeye)

 

Or use the OBD Diagnostic Tool :-)

 

You can buy MAF cleaner from Halfords I've had to clean my MAF sensor before only about £5 better to use the right stuff as you could end up damaging it.

 

Thanks for the replies the guy fitted then cobb induction filter after he had the car mapped he also took the cat out after the map aswell the car still accelerate ok but as soon as the boost goes over 0.5 bar the gauge fluctuates up and down could this be to do with the map when I bought the car he also give me the dyno Print out I only took the cobb induction filter off as it was quite loud when driving

 

Will need the map looking at then mate could be running lean and ECU pulling back on boost....

 

Will probably need a map tweak and depending on what you have on there go mafless

 

Can anyone recommend any good garages in the north east to have a look at it
Thanks

 

If you do a long pull from low speed in 4th or 5th gear and the boost fluctuates it usually indicates a soft/worn actuator.

Reach down to the actuator and if you can push the arm away from you by hand, to open the wastegate, it means the spring is weak.

 

i would try a second hand boost solenoid as if that fails you are in the area of where your boost is , if you clean it it can help or work for a bit or for good , they are two types each with it's own colour , with it broken boost max is about .9 of a bar

 

if you think its a maf , meet some one local to you and swap yours over as they can be pricy even worse if you change it and its not the fault , try a code reader about 15£ on ebay , you can reset by disconnecting the battery pump the brake pedal about 50 times and leave battery lead off for 30 mins or so , i had a dirty boost solenoid cleaned it no obvious change but then reset the ecu job done , my other boost solenoid failure boost was about .9 cleaned it it worked again then died so i got a second hand one job done

 

I'm not that really machanical minded I'll give stuff ago thou so to reset the echo disconnect the battery then pump the brake pedal 50 times then leave for 30 minutes before reconnecting the battery ?? Is there anyone local to me who could maybe swap there maf and boost solenoid to see if they are the problem ?

 

Not if its a Bugeye

 

Mine is a 2001 bugeye

 

the reset works on a 2004 fsti as it cleared the issue i had, and i still do the reset on and off , i have a jdm bugeye but i'm in herts so a long way from you , the maf part number maybe interchangeable with other models , old mafs were cheap new age ones are expensive , second hand boost solenoids are cheap on ebay

 

did I just read that right? to reset the ecu, disconnect the battery and pump the brakes 50 times?

You press the brake pedal ONCE to drain any voltage.

I love this forum, apparently members on here are of a higher intelligence than Facebook.

 

Take it somewhere professional for diagnosis if you're incapable of swapping a maf or boost solenoid. I always find it odd when people post up asking for advice on how to fix a car but have no idea on how to do the most basic of things.

Pay to get someone to look at it, instead of getting 20 ideas from the internet that may/may not work based on what you're willing to attempt.

 

why put people down at least they are trying to help and point the owner in the right direction , i thought that is the point of the site , what i have suggested are simple cheap
things learnt from doing it myself that worked for me , plus as above the mention of a code reader , is it so important how many times the brakes are pumped that you feel the need to put people down ? you appear to accept the reset does work , the cost of a used solenoid or maf v the cost of a diagnostic cost which won't pick up a maf issue any way

 

Go get it mapped, especially after further changes have been made. See what the afr is and know what you're dealing with, then take it from there.

 

I can change a maf and I've already cleaned the boost solenoid I'm a capable of doing moderate stuff.... but wouldn't like to change a cam belt clutch etc.... Rickybobby all I'm asking is for a bit of help?? I'm willing to try moderate stuff and willing to learn if you don't have anything helpful to say don't bother commenting

 

Is it true if I have the car running and I disconnect the maf if the car starts running lumpy the maf is ok ??

 

Your wasting your time with the maf, clue is in the mod changes after the map, get the map redone asap before you damage something.

 

Ok I'll look into the map I know the guy who I bought itoff had it mapped sonewhere in Surrey is there any good places in the north east or near to the north east
Thanks

 

Will need a full map if you go somewhere else than the origional mapper. Sounds like it was done at surrey rolling road, prob by racedungnamics so your better off getting a full map done anyway.

 

I understand above comments about a map , i would try the few possible fixes mentioned reset the ecu and see how it goes , i'm assuming it was running ok for a while before and then started its issues , if you did the mods then have not remapped i can understand it having issues , on that note a fuel pump could cause issues i test my pressure with a gauge i got on ebay

 

they guy who I bought it off told me when he bought the car it had a exhaust and dumpvalve and a panel filter on it he then had it remapped to 270 Bhp in Surrey then he fitted a cobb induction kit on it and took the 2nd cat out of it and fitted a boost gauge all I have done was a smoke test on it which showed the old dumpvalve to be leaking so I replaced it with a brand new forge one and I took the cobb induction kit of it and replaced it with the standard air box and panel filter that come as spares with the car I've cleaned the boost solenoid the best I can the car seemed to be running fine when I bought it I'm gunna try to reset the ecu so that's just disconnect the battery press brake pedal once and leave car for 30 minutes ���� Does anybody know If there and good map places in the north east

 

Don't think you can reset the ECU the way you are saying mate

http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.p...ledge/ECUReset

A lot of different things have been mentioned with a lot of arguments so to summarise

MAF clean - £5
ECU rest - Diagnostic tool £20
Weak actuator - Free
Fuel pump - Free to test, new pump £100-£200
Remap/Map tweak - £150 - depending what you have

Think thats it. If anything has been missed let me know and will add it to the list lol