Have I made a boo boo?
) will the trick of swinging a breaker bar right then yanking it left work?
20 July 2016, 12:18 PM
#4
Worth a go, but unlikely I'd say as these should be torqued to 186Nm. Which is rather tight!!!! 
If you buy new nuts you could always grind most of the way through it then chizzel and hammer to split it. Should come off easily then. Last resort that though.
If you can get a centre cap off, wheels on and car back on the ground I'd be trying that first through the centre cap with a long breaker bar.
If you buy new nuts you could always grind most of the way through it then chizzel and hammer to split it. Should come off easily then. Last resort that though.
If you can get a centre cap off, wheels on and car back on the ground I'd be trying that first through the centre cap with a long breaker bar.
20 July 2016, 12:24 PM
#6
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Thread Starter
Worth a go, but unlikely I'd say as these should be torqued to 186Nm. Which is rather tight!!!!
If you buy new nuts you could always grind most of the way through it then chizzel and hammer to split it. Should come off easily then. Last resort that though.
If you can get a centre cap off, wheels on and car back on the ground I'd be trying that first through the centre cap with a long breaker bar.
If you buy new nuts you could always grind most of the way through it then chizzel and hammer to split it. Should come off easily then. Last resort that though.
If you can get a centre cap off, wheels on and car back on the ground I'd be trying that first through the centre cap with a long breaker bar.
Should've thought this through before I started. Live n learn eh this is my first restoration job.
20 July 2016, 12:29 PM
#7
You may be able to hold the disc by wedging a screwdriver in the middle of the vents. Be careful not to snap the casting though. If the suspension is off too then you may just be better to take the whole shaft complete with hub to your local garage to use their windy gun. They'll undo it in no time!
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20 July 2016, 02:54 PM
#9
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Thread Starter
I think im going to invest in a windy, as I need compressed air for my caliper pistons too! Whats a decent type to buy? Trying to avoid the too cheap brands but also cant afford £££
20 July 2016, 03:37 PM
#10
Scooby Regular
20 July 2016, 03:45 PM
#11
decent size compressor required. Go for a make that gives lifetime support if possible like Snap on, Halfords Pro, etc. Won't be cheap though but if you buy cheap they don't work very well.
It in not just easier to pop the drive shafts out of the gearbox and take the assemblies without struts to local garage? They'll have decent tools that will actually work.
It in not just easier to pop the drive shafts out of the gearbox and take the assemblies without struts to local garage? They'll have decent tools that will actually work.
20 July 2016, 03:57 PM
#12
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Thread Starter
decent size compressor required. Go for a make that gives lifetime support if possible like Snap on, Halfords Pro, etc. Won't be cheap though but if you buy cheap they don't work very well.
It in not just easier to pop the drive shafts out of the gearbox and take the assemblies without struts to local garage? They'll have decent tools that will actually work.
It in not just easier to pop the drive shafts out of the gearbox and take the assemblies without struts to local garage? They'll have decent tools that will actually work.
20 July 2016, 04:10 PM
#13
In my experience, some air tools are a god send and some worse than electric.
Air Impact gun = Brilliant
Air ratchet = Slow, loud, not powerful enough.
Air saw (uses hack saw blades) = brilliant. Quite literally the best air tool you'll buy.
Air sander = Noisy, uses lots and lots of air and you have to stop lots = I'm now using an electric sander again.
Air spraying equipment = only useful if you have a LARGE compressor and a very good moisture trap system, but then it's excellent.
Air Impact gun = Brilliant
Air ratchet = Slow, loud, not powerful enough.
Air saw (uses hack saw blades) = brilliant. Quite literally the best air tool you'll buy.
Air sander = Noisy, uses lots and lots of air and you have to stop lots = I'm now using an electric sander again.
Air spraying equipment = only useful if you have a LARGE compressor and a very good moisture trap system, but then it's excellent.
20 July 2016, 07:35 PM
#15
I did the same thing but if you can re attach the caliper . Put a screwdriver in the vented part of the disk and turn it tull the screwdriver hits the caliper.
To remove the piston just use a reguler tyre inflator .you can cut the rubber brake line and you need an attachment (you get them for blowing up things like lielows etc)for the tyre inflator that you can push and hold onto the end of the brake caliper line. You could even use a foot pump this way. Be be warned if the piston is seized in it will suddenly and without being able to even see it .shoot out of the caliper . Also you cant do them one at a time you need to put something between the pistons to stop them coming full out . Hope this helps
The drive shaft bolt is tight but its not that bad. The long bolt through the rear caliper and lateral arm is a real ******* . In fact all the bolts on the lateral arms are a *******
To remove the piston just use a reguler tyre inflator .you can cut the rubber brake line and you need an attachment (you get them for blowing up things like lielows etc)for the tyre inflator that you can push and hold onto the end of the brake caliper line. You could even use a foot pump this way. Be be warned if the piston is seized in it will suddenly and without being able to even see it .shoot out of the caliper . Also you cant do them one at a time you need to put something between the pistons to stop them coming full out . Hope this helps
The drive shaft bolt is tight but its not that bad. The long bolt through the rear caliper and lateral arm is a real ******* . In fact all the bolts on the lateral arms are a *******
Last edited by gary77; 20 July 2016 at 07:39 PM.
21 July 2016, 03:36 PM
#18
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
I did the same thing but if you can re attach the caliper . Put a screwdriver in the vented part of the disk and turn it tull the screwdriver hits the caliper.
To remove the piston just use a reguler tyre inflator .you can cut the rubber brake line and you need an attachment (you get them for blowing up things like lielows etc)for the tyre inflator that you can push and hold onto the end of the brake caliper line. You could even use a foot pump this way. Be be warned if the piston is seized in it will suddenly and without being able to even see it .shoot out of the caliper . Also you cant do them one at a time you need to put something between the pistons to stop them coming full out . Hope this helps
The drive shaft bolt is tight but its not that bad. The long bolt through the rear caliper and lateral arm is a real ******* . In fact all the bolts on the lateral arms are a *******
To remove the piston just use a reguler tyre inflator .you can cut the rubber brake line and you need an attachment (you get them for blowing up things like lielows etc)for the tyre inflator that you can push and hold onto the end of the brake caliper line. You could even use a foot pump this way. Be be warned if the piston is seized in it will suddenly and without being able to even see it .shoot out of the caliper . Also you cant do them one at a time you need to put something between the pistons to stop them coming full out . Hope this helps
The drive shaft bolt is tight but its not that bad. The long bolt through the rear caliper and lateral arm is a real ******* . In fact all the bolts on the lateral arms are a *******
got home and was like ffs how am i supposed to use this ****! trading it in at the weekend weighing up the cost of a £150-200 cabinet which wouldnt fit some parts in comparent to just driving the parts down to my local sandblaster who will also powder coat them,,, i think in the end its probably cheaper just to outsource this task but i'd love my own blaster!
21 July 2016, 03:55 PM
#20
weighing up the cost of a £150-200 cabinet which wouldnt fit some parts in comparent to just driving the parts down to my local sandblaster who will also powder coat them,,, i think in the end its probably cheaper just to outsource this task but i'd love my own blaster!
21 July 2016, 04:11 PM
#21
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