JDM Widetrack 2.1 Stroker build.
29 March 2013, 11:28 AM
#1
JDM Widetrack 2.1 Stroker build.
I never thought I'd be doing another one of these after deciding not to finish the track car I was building.
Just to bring you all up to speed I was building a full on track car. Which I got 90% done and then decided I didn't have the time, inclination or cash to finish it. Which is a decision I now regret.
The track car started life in my hands looking like this:
and we parted company with it looking like this.
It's New Owner is kindly carrying on my old build thread and the build itself. He's doing a terrific Job and the car now looks lke this.
I parted with the track car as I wanted something to enjoy the remainder of last summer in. Matt had showed interest in my car but said he needed to sell his first. He had an immaculate Widetrack JDM STI. I took a shine to it and we managed to strike a deal.
So September last year and the deal was done.
The Newage was supposed to be 450bhp and had all the right bits to achieve that. I was a little disappointed with the performance when i first took delivery of it. I just put that down to the fact it was a fully trimmed Newage and not a stripped out Classic that I had been used to.
Anyway after an incident with the induction kit and the exchange of the compressor wheel on the turbo to a billet one led to a remap it soon became apparent something was wrong. After 3 pulls on the dyno mapping was aborted. It wasnt producing the goods.
It wasn't spooling very well and certanly wasnt making the power it should have been.
Anyway after lots of fault finding with Help from Simon @ JGM and Kev and the guys at Scooby Clinic we identified that the sports cat had collapsed and was drastically reducing power.
Once the cat was removed and on a borrowed turbo from Kev we managed an immediate improvement but something still not quite right.
I swapped back to the original turbo an LM450 Billet and took it back to the rollers at SC.
Still moving in the right direction.
I then decided to have a meth map done. So off I went down to SRR and to get Simon @ JGM to work his magic once more.
I was happy with that result. However as part of the diagnostics that Scooby Clinic Kindly carried out for me we discovered a severely leaking cylinder whilst doing a leakdown test.
I didn't want to run the car @ circa 500bhp with some sort of issue. So I made the decision to strip the engine down and perform a rebuild.
I wasted no time in taking the engine out it was done a week after the meth map was done.
It stripped it down and was very pleased at the good condition the engine was in.
So as I never do things by halves it's having a full on rebuild.
The spec is as follows:
Closed Deck 2.0L Block
2013 EJ257Crank
Cosworth Rods
RCM Omega WRC Stroker pistons.
ACL Race bearings
Supertec Niterided Inlet Valves
Supertec Inconel Exhaust Valves
Double Valve Springs
Titanium retainers.
Spec C Cams
The block is currently away being prepared for the build.
Here's what I have got so far.
Brand New Crank from RCM
All new Bolts, seals, gaskets and bearings for the short block
Cosworth Rods
RCM/Omega WRC Stroker Pistons
These are a work of art.
Assembly starts when I get the block back from the machine shop which will be next week.
and so starts another build.
Just to bring you all up to speed I was building a full on track car. Which I got 90% done and then decided I didn't have the time, inclination or cash to finish it. Which is a decision I now regret.
The track car started life in my hands looking like this:
and we parted company with it looking like this.
It's New Owner is kindly carrying on my old build thread and the build itself. He's doing a terrific Job and the car now looks lke this.
I parted with the track car as I wanted something to enjoy the remainder of last summer in. Matt had showed interest in my car but said he needed to sell his first. He had an immaculate Widetrack JDM STI. I took a shine to it and we managed to strike a deal.
So September last year and the deal was done.
The Newage was supposed to be 450bhp and had all the right bits to achieve that. I was a little disappointed with the performance when i first took delivery of it. I just put that down to the fact it was a fully trimmed Newage and not a stripped out Classic that I had been used to.
Anyway after an incident with the induction kit and the exchange of the compressor wheel on the turbo to a billet one led to a remap it soon became apparent something was wrong. After 3 pulls on the dyno mapping was aborted. It wasnt producing the goods.
It wasn't spooling very well and certanly wasnt making the power it should have been.
Anyway after lots of fault finding with Help from Simon @ JGM and Kev and the guys at Scooby Clinic we identified that the sports cat had collapsed and was drastically reducing power.
Once the cat was removed and on a borrowed turbo from Kev we managed an immediate improvement but something still not quite right.
I swapped back to the original turbo an LM450 Billet and took it back to the rollers at SC.
Still moving in the right direction.
I then decided to have a meth map done. So off I went down to SRR and to get Simon @ JGM to work his magic once more.
I was happy with that result. However as part of the diagnostics that Scooby Clinic Kindly carried out for me we discovered a severely leaking cylinder whilst doing a leakdown test.
I didn't want to run the car @ circa 500bhp with some sort of issue. So I made the decision to strip the engine down and perform a rebuild.
I wasted no time in taking the engine out it was done a week after the meth map was done.
It stripped it down and was very pleased at the good condition the engine was in.
So as I never do things by halves it's having a full on rebuild.
The spec is as follows:
Closed Deck 2.0L Block
2013 EJ257Crank
Cosworth Rods
RCM Omega WRC Stroker pistons.
ACL Race bearings
Supertec Niterided Inlet Valves
Supertec Inconel Exhaust Valves
Double Valve Springs
Titanium retainers.
Spec C Cams
The block is currently away being prepared for the build.
Here's what I have got so far.
Brand New Crank from RCM
All new Bolts, seals, gaskets and bearings for the short block
Cosworth Rods
RCM/Omega WRC Stroker Pistons
These are a work of art.
Assembly starts when I get the block back from the machine shop which will be next week.
and so starts another build.
Last edited by dazdavies; 29 March 2013 at 11:30 AM.
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22 April 2013, 10:08 AM
#13
Hi daz, are you by any chance going to do a bit of a how to step by step guide for those of us that are following in your footsteps.
I'd also be interested to know who you use to hone the bores and balance the crank and what's involved / required to do this.
Reason being i'm going to be doing this again myself in the coming months and it would be nice to have a good "all in one place" reference guide partly because i'm a lazy ****** and partly because you've done it a fair few more times than me, so can help me and others to avoid silly mistakes like the last time where I put the rear crank oil seal in too far and had to top up every fill as well as the joy of smelling oil burning on the exhaust for 1200 miles.
Pretty please.
I'd also be interested to know who you use to hone the bores and balance the crank and what's involved / required to do this.
Reason being i'm going to be doing this again myself in the coming months and it would be nice to have a good "all in one place" reference guide partly because i'm a lazy ****** and partly because you've done it a fair few more times than me, so can help me and others to avoid silly mistakes like the last time where I put the rear crank oil seal in too far and had to top up every fill as well as the joy of smelling oil burning on the exhaust for 1200 miles.
Pretty please.
31 May 2013, 11:35 AM
#21
As I've got the block back I can now get to work on it all.
I've now got everything to assemble the bottom end which I shall be doing this weekend.
The block has been converted to rear thrust, honed to suit the pistons and both block halves have been faced and it's been chemically cleaned. All done at my local machine shop for £252 inc vat which I thought was a bargain.
I've masked the block ready for painting. This is before the etch primer went on last night.
I've now got everything to assemble the bottom end which I shall be doing this weekend.
The block has been converted to rear thrust, honed to suit the pistons and both block halves have been faced and it's been chemically cleaned. All done at my local machine shop for £252 inc vat which I thought was a bargain.
I've masked the block ready for painting. This is before the etch primer went on last night.
05 June 2013, 04:32 PM
#26
They aren't sitting high, if anything they are too low in the bore. I thought they should be flush with the deck face.
I'm wondering if I need a 1mm Longer rod.
05 June 2013, 05:49 PM
#27
Sorry about that, they're hosted on a server at home and I've been watching some films via netflix so it would be slow today
They aren't sitting high, if anything they are too low in the bore. I thought they should be flush with the deck face.
I'm wondering if I need a 1mm Longer rod.
They aren't sitting high, if anything they are too low in the bore. I thought they should be flush with the deck face.
I'm wondering if I need a 1mm Longer rod.
Last edited by Kwik; 05 June 2013 at 05:51 PM.
07 June 2013, 01:29 PM
#28
Just had a reassuring email from Olly.
"Just a bit of info for you, hopefully will put your mind at rest.
Version 1-4 cars, the piston sits 0.3mm above the block face.
Version 5-6 cars the piston sits 0.3mm below the block face.
New Age WRX’s the piston sits 0.3mm below the block face.
New Age WRX STI cars, the piston sits 1.5 mm below the block face.
Your stroker pistons should sit 1.25mm down the bore."
So happy days I can crack on with the build
"Just a bit of info for you, hopefully will put your mind at rest.
Version 1-4 cars, the piston sits 0.3mm above the block face.
Version 5-6 cars the piston sits 0.3mm below the block face.
New Age WRX’s the piston sits 0.3mm below the block face.
New Age WRX STI cars, the piston sits 1.5 mm below the block face.
Your stroker pistons should sit 1.25mm down the bore."
So happy days I can crack on with the build
07 June 2013, 07:55 PM
#30
Scooby Regular
