Funkierthanfunky

Subaru Impreza WRX STI Type RA Ver2. This is the lightest (1170kg) most extreme classic Impreza they made, with light weight aluminium panels, no sound deadening, roof vent, stiffer lower adjustable suspension, upper front carbon strut brace, aluminium rear upper and front lower strut braces, close ratio gearbox, driver controlled centre diff and plated limited slip rear diff, roof vent, better seat, fifth injector, TD05 turbo and solid lifters in improved cylinder heads.

If you are thinking about buying one then there are a few things to bear in mind, in Japan they run on 100 Octane fuel and so you need to add octane booster and the gearing is really low, really, really low.

So to get round the octane booster you need to remap it but, classic impreza's cannot be 'remapped' so you need to change the ECU. The low ratios are great for track work but the gearbox is not capable of taking the easy to come by power these engines can produce when you get the new mapable ECU in place, also the standard intecooler is the size of a playing card so this also needs replacing, which then in turn means bigger injectors as the standard ones are nearly on their limit with the 280 factory bhp. Then if you end up driving it anywhere you will get fed up with the ridicuosly low gearing and weak box so will need a six speed box at between £2-£3k then you will need to replace the single piston sliding calipers with some decent brakes to contain your new power.

All this work has already been done on this car, and more.

It has a 6 speed gearbox with JDM ratios which mean gears 1-5 are the same as the original box but 6th is the same as a UK Impreza's 5th so the gearing isn't too low, it also retains the plated rear diff and has the handy improvement of being able to withstand upto 600bhp!! ( allegedly )This is driven by an API uprated clutch and flywheel.

It has a SIMTEC ECU, larger yellow injectors, front mounted intercooler, remote oil cooler mounted in the front bumper and has a brand new 3000 miles or so 2.5l engine from API engines with forged pistons rolling road set up at Scooby Clinic with 326bhp and 380 lbft torque.

It also has the Subaru 4 Piston calipers on the front with EBC yellows front and rear and goodridge braided brake hoses all round.

It will also come with the air conditioning pump and all pipe work, condensor and hoses which was working great before being removed for weight loss reasons.

It will also come with a brand new pair of Godspeed grooved discs and a spare brand new set of EBC yellows for the front.

The body work is in good condition for the age of the car with the exception of small dent in the front wing ( wings are bolt on ).

It has 4 wheels with Toyo R888's on them ( worn ) and 4 wheels with Toyo road tyres on.

It has 11 months MOT, 5 months tax.

The reason for sale is it was parked up fine one day after a drive and when it I went to start it a knocking sound came from the engine and the oil pressure warning light is on. I haven't investigated this problem yet as I cannot face taking the car to bits again!

After having a new API engine with forged pistons and everything that goes with it done 18 months ago I cannot go through another engine rebuild so it is time for the car to go.

It is fast, very fast and not just in a straight line, it handles fantastically and the brakes never fade, it will lap the Nurburgring in 8min 28sec bridge to gantry which is not to be sniffed at. But it has to go.

This will suit someone who has a good impreza engine in a bad car/chassis or someone who is capable of sorting the engine. I don't know what is wrong with the engine as I haven't investigated.

If it doesn't sell it will be broken as the gearbox alone will sell for over £2000 inc prop and linkage.
Feel free to come and view the car, you won't be dissappointed. It is in Beverley, East Yorkshire. E-mail me on longbob73@hotmail.com to arrange to view or if you have any more questions.

Am looking for £3750 ono which I don't think is too unreasonable considering the parts on the car.

Funkierthanfunky

Funkierthanfunky

unclejamal

iTrader: (2)

U BETTER START BREAKING IT!!! ITS WORTH PEANUTS IF IT KNOCKING

phil739

iTrader: (30)

bag of salted peanuts and 2k here ...lol

and just to pick up on something on your add , late classic's can be remapped

Funkierthanfunky

Thanks for your constructive comments guys.

At least you are keeping it bumped to the top.

Thankyou phil739 for checking the technical content of my advert, can I assume that my only error is the ommision of the word 'early' in front of my statement regarding re-mapping of classic Impreza ECU's? You could perhaps use your vast knowledge of Impreza's to explain why the oil light and knocking noise appeared so suddenly, and whilst doing so bump my advert back to the top?

4WaLLs

sounds like you have loss of compression hence why you have low oil pressure, I'm sure you checked your oil levels? You may had some detonation which has damaged a piston(s) and valves hence why it's knocking. Which can be attributed to the fuel & no remap most likely or a few other things, did you do anything else to the car under the bonnet recently?. I'd like to be able to pick this up but I have no garage.

My advice is to check your oil level & do a compression check but it sounds like the motor would need to be pulled & taken apart.

Funkierthanfunky

4walls

Oil level was perfect, remap was carried out at Scooby Clinic on V power after the new 2.5 was built which was a few thousand miles ago.

No detonation, engine was perfect and went like a rocket, frequent oil changes and OCD with oil levels and tyre pressures etc mean I know that it was correct.

Who ever buys it will have to pull the engine apart there is no doubt about that if you didn't have to I'd have fixed it myself by now, just can't go through another engine build myself which is why it's for sale.

Really you'd be buying all the bits around the engine fault, if you have the skills to remove engine regrind crank ( assuming it is bottom end ?? ) and fit new shells is etc you could get a lot of car for your money.

You don't need a garage, it's taxed, although you'd probably need insurance if it's on the road, I only paid £350 for the year.

4WaLLs

I need a garage so I could pull the motor,being from the states I see this happen on "built 2.5" motors a bit more then you would like to think. I'm not going to pay some else to do it. Depending on the issue the block could be scrap metal and non repairable, either way the motor is knocking and is going to have to be pulled like you said. The reason I said to do a compression test is to see how many cylinders have been affected and this would really help potential buyers.

The 3 main causes(not limited too) for this to happen Tuning, fuel system, & motor assembly. At least from what I have seen.

Oh & btw I've owned a 95 RA when I lived in the states

StudentScooby

What have api said about the engine being knacked after 3000 miles? I wouldnt be happy bet it cost more for the build than you are now selling the car for? Free Bump and good luck with the sale.

Funkierthanfunky

Thanks for the free bump and I haven't contacted API. Dave is a great guy and would certainly say, bring the car down and we'll have a look. But then there would be a labour charge for investigating ( stripping the engine! ) and as we only got the short engine from them and bolted on our own heads etc then there can be blame pointed in all directions, it had a new sump, oil pump, oil to water cooler when built. I would have to trailer the car to API which is 150miles away then pay for the investigation and rebuild by which time the same money has gone into it again which as rightly stated, isn't far off what we're selling for now .

Andy Freeman

If youre buying new brakes, suggest you read this

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(base code E 344) Street Legal to R 90 regulations. For cars up to 200 bhp and weights up to around 2 tons.

Green is not an Impreza material but has been commented in forums as used on those and therefore numerous drivers of other cars including models like Legacy and Forester may wish to add their comments here.

For smaller hot hatches this new Green material is very impressive and bites hard from cold.

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wrx fifer

iTrader: (34)

REALLY REALLY go do it somewhere else then!!!!!!

Andy Freeman

Was this in reply to my post matey or what please

gazzawrx

iTrader: (11)

you've just hi-jacked the op's thread dude. Start your own one if you wanna pass on info etc.

To the op, is the knocking coming from the block or more by the pulleys etc as oil pumps can knock when they're dead.

Andy Freeman

Yes sorry guys I posted this on the wrong thread.

My apologies

bigarf

iTrader: (67)

way too many treble vodkas me thinks.

Gear Head

iTrader: (2)

The EBC red stuff pads and grooved+dimpled discs I ran on my sti 4 for 6 months (6 years ago) were 'ok' while they lasted, but both pads and discs were shot after just 5000 miles. At the time EBC promised great things, so I am afraid I have little faith in any ebc product.
I don't even brake that hard and have only ever gone through one set of brake pads in my 10 years of driving. I fitted oe spec discs and pads and the difference was night and day. Immediate response and no noise/judder.

Take this as payback for posting on someone elses thread!

And to the OP, good luck with the sale.

Andy916

iTrader: (8)

Sorry to hear of the failure.

Here are the likely possibilities, from my experience of using Imprezas on race-tracks and having suffered one big-end failure. With 888 tyres there is a very real possibility of oil surge starving the bearings, depending on circuit and laptimes. You don't mention baffled sump or baffle plate so I presume it has neither. Oil pressure gauge may have shown a drop on the hardest corners, so long as the gauge isn't too heavily damped, but realistically you need a passenger scrutinizing the gauge on those particular corners. The other biggie is oil temperature, which I think was my downfall (130C+ on Millers CFS 10w60 that was 4k miles old ... I know, it was too old). Your oil cooler should keep temperature in check, but that rad looks like the original one and they can lose efficiency over time. Do you know your oil temp gauge is accurate (I check mine by measuring the temp of the oil when I drain it). Which oil and how old? Oil breathers - are these routed to a catch can? Fuel surge - was the tank kept above 3/4 level? If the Simtek is programmed to flash CEL in case of det, and you're sure there was none, then you're probably ok on the last two factors though.

The car looks like a good starting point for someone able to sort the engine; as you say, the 6-speed is valuable.

Andy

DJ_Jon

iTrader: (7)

JDM 6 speeds don't have the same ratio as a UK 5 speed, I had a JDM box in my classic & 6th @ 70mph is 3100 rpm on the rev counter. A UK 5 speed will be 2600 rpm.

It looks like a very clean car, I wish you luck with the sale. I would presonally break it though, you will get far more for it in bits than as a whole. The engine is an unknown quantity, but at minimum its going to need a 1k rebuild, so making the car a bit overpriced IMHO.

I'd pitch it at £2550 & see what happens or maybe ebay with a start price of £2100.

Very best of luck with the sale.