oil pump failures
 

hi, still relatively new on here and have read quite a few threads where it mentions oil pump failure and it being a weak point?

im still on the look out to buy a Scooby but this sounds like something else I need to be aware of

is there anything to look out for re a worn /failing oil pump, or is it something that should not be an issue if a cars is properly serviced and maintained.

is there a connection between abused examples and problems with oil pumps.

im not a mechanic, so I apologise if this questions sounds a daft one to those in the know.

sean999

My oil pump failed and that was a cosworth one that cost nearly 300 quid,destroyed my bottom end.i now run a modified 11 mm oil pump from advanced automotive.ive heard of stories where the bolts in the back of the pump come loose and the oil pump comes away I think............not good

which models were prone to this disease?

Best advise IMO is to replace the oil pump as part of your cam belt service.
I've done this with genuine Subaru parts for the last 7-8 years and never had a problem.

Siv :thumb:

It's one of those things imo that if its going to brake then there's not alot you can do about it, I've heard more of the oil pickup causing failures more than the pump its self tbh ( others may have experienced differently like shreksta above, and have heard about the bolts working free but not so often on the standard unmodified ones) if you have gauges then it will show up on them, I've known plenty of people who are still on the original pump and have given their cars brutal treatment and nothing has happened as of yet, people even track them, it's no good owning one of these cars if your going to read things and get paranoid about it, you won't enjoy the car, listen to the basic sound advice from members on here and you won't go far wrong with them, maintenance is key and correct fuels and oils etc.

If you listened to every horror story you read on here then you would never drive your car, and often when they break it comes down to things that are not mentioned but place blame on others or the brand, Im on a standard newage engine and I use the car for what it was built for, I maintain it and keep on top of it, and if something is needed I replace it, other than that its a car and it will get used for what I bought it for ;) Enjoy it is my advice!

i agree with the above. i just wanna know if there are specific models that are prone to it? or all of them. my car has an aftermarket system on. i have also heard of that pick up pipe getting blocked...think i saw it on a youtube video where the guy replaces that unit, when they rebuilt the engine, due to metal fragments possibly clogging the pipe...something to that extent...

ok thanks, im not after a big horse power monster or a track slag, I just like the look and sound of them.
im just wanting to build my knowledge and be best informed

sean999

The problem is that for every 10 horror stories you hear, there must be 100 other owners out there who have never had such problems.

Unfortuantely, they don't post a thread on here saying - 'My standard oil pump is working fine!' :thumb:

yes, fair point
sean999

yeah some of the bolts have been known to come loose but the oil pump failure is probably more down to det rather than the oil pump failure on its own. det causing the big ends to have a flat in them which causes big end failure which then knackers the oil pump.

there is good evidence to back this up btw

interesting, man.

how does the f#ckep up bearings kill the pump?

I brought a hawkeye sti and fitted some gauges strait away only to find my oil pressure was around 1bar ,,, so took the pump out and found it like this ,, its exactly how it came out (look at the bolts) ,,, replaced it and 6 months on all is well

Attachment 58263

:eek:

the metal from the bearings gets sucked up the pump

nice save

thought so. thanks buddy.

stedee, what is "det" not familiar with that term?

sean999

Detonation

As stated above, pump gear backing plate screws can back out over time resulting in a drop in oil pressure as the oil bleeds past the loose backing plate.
In general, the big end bearings will fail due to wear/det/coolant contamination from a failed head gasket/high mileage/contamination from a previous engine failure(debris in the modine or cylinder heads) etc etc - debris from the big end failure can jam the oil pump PRV in the open/relief position but by that time, the engine is terminal anyway.

Mick

We wouldn't say the oil pumps are a particular problem. The oil pressure relief valves can stick, but other than that they actually shift a fair bit of oil.
We've seen a few with loose screws on the backs, it's just a case of a new seal and tighten them up.

^Ive heard of this "sticking" usually from crap in the oil getting between the seat of the PRV and the ball in it ..... any logic in that Alan?

A trusted engine builder once said that the best way to kill an oil pump is feed it crap oil.

are these engines any different from conventional ones, ie location of oil pump? I've only ever stripped one engine down totally and that was an old cvh out of a rs1600i.

I would imagine quite a big job/ engine/out??

sean999

wrong..................its right at the front of the engine matey behind the cambelt :thumb:

just removed mine about 6weeks ago after 170.000 miles all screws where loose, with carbon deposits inside, after removing cleaning and loctiting screws back in with screwlock, i now have 10bar oil pressure on cold startup and 5bar once oil is at 90-100 deg does this sound about right ?

so basically easy to get to and worth while doing/ checking at same time as cambelt?

as with other cars does the water pump and cambelt go hand in hand, ie do both?

sorry if this sounds stupid but just wanting to educate myself with these cars

Might as well do both. I've had a water pump fail but in a weird way. It was leaking water through a thru hole. Nothing wrong with asking mate

when i took mine off, there was no signs of wear at all, i cleaned it out with degreaser and a bottle brush and then with petrol afterwards, cleaned the screws with clutch n carb cleaner, then reassembled using loctite screwlock, and loctite instant gasket(high temp) now have 10 bar on cold startup(tickover) and 4-5bar on hot tickover, and 10bar at any speed over 2000rpm :thumb:

Sean999 we all learn by asking what seem to be stupid questions. But for every person that post's a supposedly stupid question 20 others are thinking the same thing.

agreed normally the oil pump "failure" is an after effect rather than a cause............