Spark plug changed (whats all the fuss about)
 

Hi all today was the day i desided to bit the bullet and do a spark plug change.
Had heard lots of storys as to what a S**t job it was.
And when i had cam belt changed (2 1/2 hours) the garage said they wanted half a day to change plugs?

So read up about it and away i went
drivers side first
removed all the air box and changed plugs
near side
removed water bottle was going to remove battery
but looked like no need so changed that side fine

Total time start to finish 55 mins

EASY JOB GO FOR IT

PS
i have a my05 wrx
Cris

Do them from underneath and you don't need to remove anything:thumb:

Fine if you have a ramp or pit
also would need to remove the under tray

Dont think you can do the 2.5's from underneath.

Im with the op. Easy job, took me 40 mins and that includes having to go fishing twice for a dropped socket.

That reminds me
I dropped the ratchet handle twice had to remove some of the under tray to get it

It's only a problem if:

a. you don't have the right tools.
b. you have fingers like and elephant's trunk.

The most fiddly bit is undoing the coil-pack nuts as it's tight to get your hand in and even with a stubby spanner you can only get about an 1/8th of a turn:wonder:

You need to get yourself a nice 1/4 inch drive socket set :thumb:

I'd need a bigger tool chest...



:norty:

Just missing the 1/4" ratchet TBH:D

I was surprised how easy they are to do, as said above - its all down to the right tools.

easy enough job to be fair as said the right tools help. H6 engine is a job for underneath and the 2 rear cylinders are a little task to get out lol

its an easy enough job, on my blob i remove the battery and water bottle to make a bit more room and the boost pipe (fmic) and induction pipe on the other side.
but the changing is pretty simple with the right tools

Having an extension bar thats just the right length is the key ;)

A little trick i have for changing the plugs is 2 spark plug sockets. One with the rubber bung inside for removing the plugs and the other without the bung for putting the plugs in. It makes it a lot easier to extract the plug with the bung and easier to extract the socket without the bung.

i had the one with the rubber bung stay on the plug when i pulled the extension out on an old impreza once.
right bitch to get it back out.

:lol1::lol1: Cheap made in china tools. I had the opposite, i screwed the plug in and couldn't pull the socket back out hence me pulling the bung out of another socket for putting the plugs back in.

halfords finest......:thumb:

Can't go wrong with their pro range:thumb:

tbh its a decent enough socket set.
not quite snap on though

Unless you a professional there is no point in having all snap-on or mac ect tools . You find some tools in the tool box get used a lot while others collect dust. I buy quality for the tools i use all the time the rest are just halfords or draper.
I bought a full set of mac knuckle saver spanners and they cost a fortune. I only ever use 10-12-14-17mm, the rest just sit there looking pretty:lol1: same with screw drivers, i have a few high quality the rest are used for prying, beating with a hammer ect.

i know what you mean but i found out in my younger days, crap tools round of nuts and screws and cause more hastle.

and beating screwdrivers with a hammer, shame on you :lol1:

Tool box should have a mixture of quality and cr*p depending on what you want it for or who your lending it too :lol1:
A lot of people don't understand the difference in some of the tools they have and why there different. Nuts get rounded off because people use 12 point sockets for higher torque applications when they should use a 6 point. 12 point grips the corners of the nut where as 6 point grips the flats. In fact quite often a 6 point will still grip a rounded off nut :thumb:

As for beating a screw driver with a hammer. Sometimes only the beating screwdriver will do the job :D

Should have also said.. to stop rounding off screw heads use snap-on anti cam out bits. They cost about a quid from the snap on man. Always best to try and tighten the screw before undoing it. This causes the screw to burr in he opposite direction and give the bit more screw to grip too.

Not teaching you to suck eggs but it may help someone who stumbles on this thread.

I did a photo step by step in the RB320 owners club web site. As you can see there is no way you will get to them from underneath.lol

http://www.rb320ownersclub.co.uk/ind...showtopic=3801

i must admit when i did mine i was suprised someone suggested do it from underneath, perhaps different on other models.

The older 2L classic cars have more room between the heads and inner wing i think. Still changing the plugs on a scoob is far easier than changing them on a lot of motorbikes :lol1: