Hence my question....300v has gone through the roof!!!

No David is saying that 80% of the failed engines he sees are using 0w or 5w oil. Assuming that most people follow Subaru recommendations and use 5w oil - say 80% of people - then this does not mean that ow or 5w oil is any more likely to be the cause of an engine fail than other oils. You would expect to see more fails from cars using ow or 5w oils if more cars are using these oils and fewer fails from cars using thicker oils if less cars are using these oils - that's the point i'm making.

They might want to update their website then! :)

http://www.rogerclarkmotorsport.co.uk/servicing.asp

Unless the customer specifies otherwise, AFAIK They've used Silkolene Pro R (now called Fuchs Tiutan) 15/50

IMO Motul & Millers race products are the best quality oils in the market place and ultimately you are paying for their "multi-ester" synthetic technology..........
the only other race oil manufacturer i would entertain is the pukka Shell Racing (not the helix common or garden types you get in Halfrauds, etc.)

lots of other companies claim "ester technology" or synthetic formulated or other tosh, its basically verging on "snake-oil" type advertising for the uninitiated

alyn

Alyn, even Fuchs (Silkolene)?!!

I asked Olly about the oil and he gave me the castrol brochure pointing out the 10/60 specs. On an oil related theme is it ok for the oil level tobe near the notch on the dipstick, above the upper level when cold??
Thanks

They have only just gone over to Castrol Edge,so the y have not got around to changing their site yet.

you oil level (cold) should never sit above the top drill hole and definately nowhere neat the 'notch'

Agree totally with this guy.2 plus 2 dont always make 4. And for the record not all the major specialists,stroke enginebuilders have a problem with 5w oils. If your scoob is heavily modded and or tracked i agree with a thicker oil,but for mildly modded road cars a top notch 5w 40 is the best option IMHO

I've been recommended a 5w40 fully synthetic for my sti8 bottom end classic heads.

I've run 15w50 and a 5w40 on classics and new age cars without issues, alot of it will be the engine and oil changes, no point running a good oil in a tired/worn engine where you need a thicker oil, I run a 5w40 fully synthetic on both my classic type R and STI Spec C now ;) but I wouild never run a 0w oil, bit of a :nono: that.

Tony:)

SPOT ON, I AM DEFINITELY CONFUSED, I FEEL LIKE SLASHING MY WRISTS WITH ALL THIS INFO OVER VISCOSITY.
My car is due an oil change anytime soon, currently using Shell Helix Ultra 5w/40, but stuck on which oil to purchase. I have seen two which I like, and they are:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MILLERS-EN...item3cc95c223a

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Silkolene-...item460987267f

I use Millers CFS 5/40 competition fully synthetic with no issues.
About the best you can have is Millers.

Your whole argument is based around this assumption - without backing it up with evidence, your argument is your opinion and nothing else.
Are you an engine builder or motor engineer perhaps?

what does everyone think about MILLERS CFS 10W/60 FULLY SYNTHETIC ?

Good stuff if you're going to be tracking your car and using WOT a lot. However for road use it's too thick and causes unnecessary drag whilst getting up to temperature and thus sapping power. I would not use it on a road car, far better to stick with 10w 40 or 10w 50 if you're running more power than standard and like to use it.:thumb:

+1

Have been using Millers, motul, Fuchs and now tried Gulf Competition , 5/40 for winter....Engine seems smooth, oil consumption is same , had to top it up recently after 4 months of owning the car but there were many blasts, mapping session, dyno run involved so might not be the case .... Will try 15/50 on Cadwell later on 2013 :norty:

thanks for that, I shall bear that in mind when choosing my next oil.
:thumb::D
not familiar with WOT terminology ?:confused:

WOT - wide open throttle

Is there any other way :lol1:

Why i don't believe there is ;)

:lol::lol:

Got to admit the gulf competition 15w50 is pretty bloody good oil. I've used it for the last 12 months and seems spot on
:thumb:

Having read that, I'm now tempted to ditch the 5w-30 oil that my car has always had and start with a 10w-50. Despite doing nearly 90k miles on 5w-30, will it harm changing to a different grade?

Your car has survived 90 thousand miles on a 5w30 oil, unless it's drinking the stuff I think you are safe ;)

apparently here is some info on the Gulf competition oil, I get the impression its only suited for highly tuned motors, not lightly modified, also they say its not for normal road driving??

• Exceptional Level Of Protection
• Suitable For A Range OF Race And Rally Applications
• SAE 15w-50
• Available In 1 Ltr And 5 Ltr Bottles

The Competition 15w-50 oil from Gulf is an oil suitable for a wide range of race and rally applications, notably in longer events and in large ( such as American V8s and highly rated 1000bhp ) engines. Its exceptional level of protection against engine wear, especially in high temperature conditions, is ideal where frequent engine rebuilds must be avoided.
Available in 1 Litre and 5 Litre sizes
While these oils are excellent for motorsport / trackday use, they are not recommended for use in road cars, especially if the car or its engine is still under the manufacturers' warranty.

This ^^^^^^

I run CFS 10/60 in my road car and its fine, Its been using it for the last 6 years according to my paper work and my engine builder recommended it.

:wonder: ment to be for track days only....

Like I say i've had no issues with using 10/60 on the road and Glen from Carnetix used it when he rebuilt my motor and its been in there for the last 6 years. Don't believe every thing you read on a forum...