If your worried about economy your looking at the wrong type of car fella, simple as.

welcome matey :thumb:

that car at hurst is a car i desire... its the right model to have !!

What makes you say that tidgy?

Its mapped by FB tuning and i cant fault it paired with the AVC-R 1.4bar of boost returning 27MPG for my daily driver to work at guess 320-330bhp

Never been a big fan of them tbh, there fairly old tech now and dont have the features of the more modern ecu's. But that said you will pay a bit more for those.

OP sorry to highjack your post

I agree they are fairly old tech but tbh i have no use for some of the newer features i know there are some nice options but i brought the power fc at a good price and it does everything that i want it to do and like the additional monitoring options that the commander offers

aye, all about price. syvecs will give display read outs like the comander does via Toucan, but its more money. As they say, you pays yer money you makes yer choice :thumb:

Well, Syvecs is obviously another level, but simtek.... If you do a really good research what faults 1st gen simtek had , i'm not realy sure that their were better than good old tech Apexi's. It all depends what you are aiming for, theres always new technologies to be desired, but when you put all your prefferences and amount to be spent. Its not always that you need them. you need to get an idea what your car is for and mod it for that purpouse instead of waisting your hard earned buying "racing" parts to your daily/fast road driver. Alot of people starting it from the wrong end. Just to show a mod list and brag about it on here :sleep: . Anyway, OP....there are no fuel/money savings with this particular car. As Tidgy mentioned , maybe you want something else? Just my 2 pence worth....

:thumb:

Mantas

yep agree with this, fit for purpose and the most expensive are two very different things. :thumb:

Iv had one, its a Ver6 Type WRC Ltd.

https://www.scoobynet.com/members-ga...ourselves.html

Personally id stay clear of SVA. Better examples to be had on here and privately.

That is a stunning scooby mate.. Exactly what im after

DON'T believe a word of that:nono: faulty MAF's kill engines all the time. AND buying a used one is an even more stupid idea. :eek:

New for the Vers 6 they are about 95 - 100 quid - do you really want to ruin an engine by fitting a second faulty MAF and saving 30 quid.??

Or you could just buy a used MAF and give it a go . How often do you win the lottery ? Keep my number handy 'cos you're gonna need it if you follow that advice above.

Faulty ones are easily identifiable by even newbies; when they are playing up the car will try to stall when coming to a stop at lights and so on. It is an easy enough job to change one with one of those odd star drivers that are supposed to be tamperproof.

David APi 01926 614333

Oooops ... Think I've just been told off .. My fault didn't realise a faulty maf could have such a detrimental effect ....

At least you listened. That scores points.

David

Double post - dickhead system

Thanks for that ... I would go brand new anyway if it needed replacing

All I was basicly trying to say was that if he had a faulty maf it's a easy fix..
Not to drive his car when he has issues such as a faulty maf that would be stupid.

Yes without doubt the best way forward is a new maf I stand corrected but I never said that's a second hand maf is the best way forward I was simply giving him a price range as the op seemed very hesitant about buying this ver because of the maf issues, I should not have put the option of a second had maf in there but it was simply a price range.

Sorry again for 4 any bad advice given.

BenGTturbo take a type r for a test drive, you will love it. I did not the first thing about Subaru and bought a V6 00 type r and never looked back. 8k is a high price I got mine for €6,000 but mine is not the limited model

The v6's can be mapped on EcuTEK can't they? Just the pre '98 ones that can't?

So do you have a V6 JDM car or a UK Turbo 2000 MY 00:wonder:.
They are very different cars from an engine and spec point of view.

Correct

Hi mate yea i have driven a few scoobys and i had a test drive in the sva type-r v6 yesterday and loved it... Its just trying to find a good condition low millage cheap one for sale.. Has your one been modified or is it standard ???

I have a uk My00 granted the spec's are different but the same principles apply in relation to Maf's and many users use the Q45 as an alternative to the 99-00 maf fitted to both jdm and uk cars due to the 90mm intake size

The main causes of engine failures in the V5/6 engine (afaik) are:

- Using the wrong RON fuel causing detonation.
Remember these import cars come from Japan where the fuel is 100 RON. Regular over here is 95/97 with Momentum/V-Power being 99. (Stay away from BP Ultimate). It's safer to remap the car and run Momentum/V-Power.

- MAF failure leading to engine damage
New MAF sensor's for a v5/6 engine, as of last month costs around £130 (inc VAT). From what I've read, the main cause of MAF failure is oil particles from an induction kit contaminating the MAF sensor leading to a change in the A/F mixture which results in boom.

Even if you take these precautions, the engine might still go but at least by doing this you'll reduce the risk of user induced engine failure.

jesus and i was worried about putting my 380 bhp 1997 with ver 6 front end up for
£6200

also mapped maffless with simtec ecu with anti lag

mines done a few mile s now lol 83000 km 51000 miles

The original car is well overpriced IMHO ,regarding the maf problems that you tend to get on a V5/6 - 99/00 car they mainly arise when an induction kit is fitted. I have not had a maf fail on me in 3.5 yrs as i have always used an airbox and k&n panel filter. The current maf that is in my car cost me £12.00 , and has been in the car for the last 12 months with no problems whatsoever , so like most things in life it's not what you buy it's where you buy it from. If i were to buy a BRAND new one & fit a k& n 57i would the maf last any longer ???.
My original near brand new maf is stored in the shed ready to be called into action should the used one finally fail one day.
Not ALL used parts cause problems,my lambda sensor cost me £30 ,2.5 yrs ago and is still going strong today , I bought a 2nd hand one as a spare 2 weeks ago off a well known trader off this site for little more than the price of 20 benson & hedges and as confirmed by bob Rawle 72 hrs ago it's working perfectly.
Regarding the ecu ,the std ecutek unit can be mapped quite easily and I personally can't see bar the maf issue (if any) & dual maps/fuel why people have suggested other ecu's :wonder:. Will a syvecs give more power on a vf 28/29 turbo than a ecutek ecu (£1700 worth :cuckoo:)for a guy planning on using his car as a daily driver/ weekend toy.

Like I said -- do you want to risk a 3 grand engine build, by saving 70 0r 80 quid and not buying a new MAF ?

Cone filters that are fitted dry and have good particle separation are fine. The HKS mushroom /button type seem not to favour Subarus.

High road speed on boost with a top mount is the single biggest engine killer in any GC8 type Subaru by a long way.

Running with low fuel in the tank has a similar effect.

Tesco and V Power are the best choices for fuel. Remapping an import car is essential, not necessarily for the octane, but for the general shape of the map under all circumstances. BUT P1's have an STi 5 Ecu fitted, maybe that's why they all go bang sooner or later??

David APi

Just for the records. The mileage on the sti type r wrc advertised at Hurst Cars is 111,000 kilometres (at present) and is backed up by a BIMTA certificate from Japan (with the car still running in kilometres. This equates to 68,000 miles (approx). The engine was built at approx 100,000kms which is approx 61,000 miles.

For the records anyone who may not understand a little simple bit of maths this may help.

[QUOTE=adam405sti;10603110]Just for the records. The mileage on the sti type r wrc advertised at Hurst Cars is 111,000 kilometres (at present) and is backed up by a BIMTA certificate from Japan (with the car still running in kilometres. This equates to 68,000 miles (approx). The engine was built at approx 100,000kms which is approx 61,000 miles.

For the records anyone who may not understand a little simple bit of maths this may help.[/QUOTE

really........

It really is a buyers market these days , so please don't pay well over the premium for your new Scooby.

As you mentioned in your OP , you've taken some time and this one meet your wants and desires. I would say , just keep asking people on here what they think of any car you find. When you get past the drama that can go on , people will always want to give you sound advice and you can get some very good feedback on the numerous companies that do work on Subaru's in the UK.

The biggest thing I would say from my own experience is you must get the car mapped , by one of the really brilliant mappers that can be found here. Get the car looked over and after by a decent specialist who really knows all the in's and out's of these cars. Care and attention by experienced hands from the start will help prevent costly mistakes happening , which I sadly have happen to me and since I got the care and attention sorted , my P1 has been everything I wanted from it and more.

Finally , with JapFest just round the corner it is a great chance to go round and speak to the many , many , many Scooby owners who will be there and I would say it's a pretty safe bet there will be some stunning and well sorted cars up for sale too!