Bee*R rev limiter problems please help
 

i put this rev limiter in my scooby and im having these problems can someone please give me advice ? i think its because i still have 1 of my 2 cats in with a lambda sensor ?

any help welcome cheers

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KpEMg...d_YB5m2CfVWJI=


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KpEMg...d_YB5m2CfVWJI=

:facepalm:

let me guess, put it in the bin ? lol

you wired it to the cam sensor didnt you?

that is not the way to do it

yes it says on the install guide thats what i was to do ?

the ecu will freak with the cam sensor being rustled with

take each of the 4 coil 12v wires frm the ecu towards the engine, near the ecu, and wire those four wires into one joint wire to the bee r wire you put for the cam sensor.

each of the coil leads must be fitted with a diode pointing TOWARDS the bee r

would that be the ignition control #1#2 and #3#4 ? if so, put them together and join the bee r wire to them ?

sorry about all the questions mate im a bit of a novice when it comes to this.

and sorry whats a diode ?

I think you need a full decat for it to work as it will knacker the cat, also do a search on bee*r rev limiter as I dont think they are very good for your engine.

some people say there not good some people say they dont do any harm so its a 50/50 chance. at first i though it was the lambda sensor in the cat telling the ecu to stop revving although after looking into what jakea said it looks like i need to connect ignition wires 1 2 3 and 4 to the green bee*r wire which i have no clue how to do :(

ok i think i have it now ?

JAKEA could you confirm if this is correct please?

Attachment 56522

the gray wire that connects to the ignition leads in the diagram is just plain 18gauge wire

so yes, each 12v+ to the coils must be intercepted and sent to the bee r. but all need diodes BEFORE they join! that is the most important part.

I used some radioshack 500v 10A or something diodes. Just about any over 5A works

the only negative by product is possible petrol in the oil from prolonged, chav style usage.

fuel cut is very dangerous for a lc/ rev limit. ign cut is very safe in contrast.

so just wire it up like in the drawing ?

Chuck it in the bin, yes they are fine for use on some engines. But other engines they can do substantial damage. Think about it logically, a) you're stressing your turbo and exhaust with big combustion in them b) your engine revs very erratically throwing the fuel/air to cock. c) is it REALLY worth it for a couple of shotgun blasts and a flame?

Engines with VVT systems are prone to getting fooked over with these cheap boxes, so was my z32 engine - soon as it cut in it would run on 4-5 cyls for 20 seconds before running smooth again. It was cool in a way popping a huge flame at 7.5k - but in reality just makes you look a little chavvy.

Better solution if you want that **** is to get a tuner to remove the DFC on your ecu like on the old pugs/golfs. Some cars with aftermarket bov's can throw the maf off a little resulting in some fuel finding its way through the exhaust. Not great for a turbo but easier on the engine itself. Or if you really want a launch control system get a quality omex setup with a nice smooth limit.

i dont have a turbo lol

Money better spent on a turbo :D

In which case remove the DFC (decel fuel cut) and itll flame like fook. Not sure if the commonly used sw allows for that on your scoob ecu's though - I'm still new to the wrx-world.

i have no idea where the DFC is or what it looks like lol

actually it won't, and raw fuel being pumped through the engine for 15 seconds straight on a decel is much worse than a few goes with a bee r.

wouldnt do it anyway im not doing it for the flames, im doing it for the sound and the pop as im fed up with people telling me to get a "real" scooby :(

EJ's not like it? Never had a problem when got it done on one of my old vtecs, and 'course lots of the older cars never had a dfc. Heard the EJ's are quite fickle beasts :)


You GOTTA get a saber fake dump valve to go with the pops dude :lol1:


Edit- why not sell your sport and get a wrx/turbo ? They can be had for not much over 1k for basic 4 doors, and GL's/sports still command 800-1k.

lol nah that will just make me a laughing stock

slapman grab yourself a 92/93 wrx, put a turbo back on it and a boost controller.

cant get insured on it mate :(

I think you'd be surprised if you did some shopping around. How old are you? Try moneysupermarket for a stock wrx - my girlfriend is a provisional holder and she got insured on my STi impreza type R import for 614 quid FC through post office/aviva.

a rev limiter on an NA impreza? Sorry matey, with the system stock why the hell would you even bother?

im 20 years old just off a ban and have 11 points.... the reason her insurance will be cheap is because she is female and is a learner, learner insurance is way cheaper.

because i want to brandy. i like the sound, people pay 300+ for a decent exhaust just for the sound so why not spend 80 and get the sound i want ?

This just makes me want to cry.... :cry: