A Few Basic Questions....
 

Sorry,
They've probably been asked a few times but just to try to get somewhere close to being on the same page....

Whats a 2.35 bottom end? Why is it so sought after?
Whats a short block or long block (different stroke same bore?)
A 2.1 stroker kit, would that require a slight rebore of barrels?

Sorry if i seem dumb......:cuckoo:

2.35 is based on a 2.2 block which are as rare as fook. A 2.35 seems to be the sweet point for power and torque levels and is commonly used for those who seek monster builds.

Nope, its uses a 2.5 79mm crank and stroker rods and pistons but the bore is standard 97mm

ej22t block wey the crank out a 2.5 litre and longer rods gives you the 2.35 the short block is the bottom of the engine minus heads manifold etc long engine is evrythin 2.1 is bored out im sure mite b wrong my slowboy built 2.3 landed last week very happy bunny lol

He means the reciprocating components, together, describe a c.79mm height difference between TDC and BDC i.e. the replacement rods would have to be slightly longer than those used in the basic EJ22.

"79.47mm"-spec rods to be precise (if employing pi as 22/7).

The EJ22T block was only found in the American legacy from crica 1990

Big difference, the EJ22 from the UK car is an open deck block with no under piston oil squirters

See here:-

http://www.cgperformance.com/subaru_block.htm

And SCDB (semi...), as the name suggests, is 50/50 i.e. the "in-fill" casting comes only half way up the block. Bottom half closed; top half open.

I would.

2.1 is the best "£ per cc" equation. JGM said, in a remap (obviously), the relatively small increase of 100cc gains you a decent extra wodge of torques, compared to the 'vanilla' OEM 1994cc. Plus, the integrity of the block isn't compromised (esp. being a CDB anyway!).

Not sure if it's a rebore, or stroked, though? Or are there both routes available....?

I'll have a couple of 2.2t blocks arriving soon. As said though, rare as fook and getting harder to find. Price is £1400 if interested. 2.1 build generally get rebored to 92.5

Short block is the block, crank, rods and pistons.

Long block is as above with heads attached

No such thing as a long or short "block"

...and I would seriously look into the cost of a 2.3 build before buying a block- you will be in for a shock!! Lol.

A block and an engine are different things though...... this is terminology for relating to engines.
What are you wanting to get from your car?

Powerwise, driveability, how do you drive the car?

Road/track?

All things you have to consider before making a decision on where to go with it.

2.1 would probably be your best bet tbh.

2.35 builds cost mucho pennies.

And to an answer your question, it just the block halves.

To give an indication of cost of a 2.2 block follow the link-

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-ORIGINAL...item3a6b3034fb

2.1 stroker is a 2.5 scooby crank in a 2 litre block with a bit of honing/rebore. Still revs as well as the 2 litre , but a bit more torque and so will work better with a slightly bigger turbo that would be laggy on a 2 litre.
2.35 is a 2.5 crank in a 2.2T block - biggest safe power/cost.
2.5 block is a bit dodge over 450 or so - open deck block/ thin liners - but Alyn /Stockcar on here is beginning to produce CBD 2.5s soon.

Any serious power and you will need good internals as well as the oem rods /pistons canna take it captain. :D

Having said all that RCM's gobstopper was pretty much just a 2 litre and that puts out circa 850bhp with the Nos switched on...but that would cost a bit more than £5k ;)
http://www.rogerclarkmotorsport.co.u...cial/index.htm

FredW has a 2.35 scoob, check out his project thread - stunning car :luvlove:

https://www.scoobynet.com/projects-4...ransplant.html

TX.

Dunno what happened here so edited.

For 350-400 you don't need a 2.1

Some forged internals will handle that.

That said you're going about it the wrong way IMHO.

"the cheapest I've found......"

Buying cheap and skimping on decent parts is a bad start to building any engine.

I thought the 2.5 was a SCDB?

In that case, take your time, collect parts slowly, and build the car you really want.

Once you start getting to higher figures you need to start thinking about clutches, gearboxes, fuel pumps, injectors etc etc etc.

If you want to build a fast reliable road car go for a 2.1

14mm headstud conversion is a overkill on anything less than 550-600

Be worth giving Alan or Martyn a call at Engineturner to discuss it properly if you're serious so you can work out a proper goal.

well - it seems to have issues either way once the power gets to around 500

257 crank is a good crank out of the box up to very respectable figures 5-600+

Standard if you buy a nitrated crank

Personally I wouldnt go with the manley rods but I guess they'd be ok for 400/400.

And if all brand new then yeah, £1400 is pretty good.

has there been problems with manley rods?

Personal choice.

I prefer using crower or carrillo rods. Cosworth also make good rods.

Have seen a couple of engines go bang with Manley rods but to be fair they were running a lot more than 400/400.

just used maley rods on my build but wont be going much over 400

Wouldnt worry too much.

These were running over 600 and a shed load of boost

Depends if you're going to go the single or twin scroll route?

One of the MD321 range would be good (maybe a T) or one of scobyclinics SC range.

RCM charge £270 to convert from rear to centre, so similar for the other way round - assumng if possible???

http://www.rogerclarkmotorsport.co.u...productID=1930

Billet crank can use centre thrust or rear thrust, but the billet crank is very expensive (multiples of the cost of a rear thrust conversion) and not necessary at your proposed levels. As a result you'll need a rear thrust conversion for a CBD.