cost to supply and fit defi's
 

would like to know the cost to supply and fit defi gauges and pod boost,oil temp,oil pressure

What model and model year :rolleyes:

They differ, since they are made to match the different dashes, some, like the white faced ones are almost impossible to get now, except from one or two places or second hand.

Supply will be north of £400, and fitting can be done yourself if you have any confidence, or budget for four-five hours at however much £££ per hour.

https://www.scoobynet.com/group-buys...rt-gauges.html

an alternative maybe

jim

Including the pod, gauges and control box, 700+ quid I would say.

Tony:)

Recently fitted a set of 3 to a bugeye for a customer. He supplied the parts/defis/pod etc. I charged £150 to fit.

Frayz :)

thanks for the replys

Four bleedin' wires and the odd adaptor...

1 hour labour for each max.

IMHO.

dunx

I did five in a morning on mine, including the oil P & T sensors... EGT took another hour and a welding job.

fmp is selling some defi's

check out for sale section for members

I see what youre saying mate, but its not quite like that if you want to do the job properly. ie fitting the senders in the galleries, removing the alternator.
Making up and properly protecting a fly lead to run the oem oil pressure switch. Clipping everything up neat and out of the way.

Theres workmanship and then theres workmanship. But agree some of the prices banded around for gauge fitting is off the scale!!

most things with servicing installing upgraded parts they do them in half the stated time makes you sick considering the hourly rates people charge

not just any, but super rare Genome STi Defi's! :)

I did mine like this, it took me most of a day, but that included lots of thinking time, a few sessions on here to break it up and plenty of coffee and biscuits.

I still reckon if you know what you are doing that a GOOD job can be done in 4-5 hours.

I spent a decade making harnesses, so don't need a lecture sonny ;)

But, Yes I agree that doing it right is important... I love working on MY car because it's "Fail-Free", doing it for others leads to stress.

I don't do stress at my age, it could finish me off :lol1::lol1::lol1:

dunx

P.S. Have to admit the up-pipe was new and had to be fitted anyway... :Suspiciou

P.P.S. I used to have to crimp 3600 SEH terminals an hour onto leads identical to the Defi ones, the Apexi AVC-R terminals (SHF & SYM)were much bigger and lots easier to get done.

Wasn't trying to be rude Dunx, just saying that all workmanship is not equal.

is the a guide on what and how to remove the things in the engine bay to fit the sensors
i.e.fly lead for oem pressure

can manage the dash stuff and connecting everything inside the car , just unsure on what stuff needs to be removed under the bonnet , does the air con and alternator need to be removed etc etc

its a my02 sti

cheapish set here: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SUBARU-IMPREZA...item2eb1b459b8

No problem fella, your's is a credit to you, mine is admittedly more used and track abused by far...

But "us" engineers know what counts, get right, then make it pretty... or if you can, do both at once... :lol1:

dunx

P.S. Each of my looms cost around £1200 each, half went to the military :Suspiciou the rest to the oil industry. The only two areas of use who could afford them :eek:

Yes, mate it's a real pain, I did a "survey" first and made sure everything was cleaned and lubed, then attacked it one Saturday morning...

I used a Scoobyclinic adaptor for the oil pressure and a Scoobyparts adaptor in the block ( No.3 cylinder ).

HTH

dunx

P.S. The four wires to the standard clock are all you need to get up and running.

got all adaptors from when i removed from my classic

just found this on another thread
BAT = Battery.....positive...Red wire (constant power)
GND = Ground ...negative....Black wire (ground)
LIG = Lights on/off..........White wire (illumination)
ACC = Ignition...Orange wire (switched power)
clock wires , so that bit looks straight forward , just concerned about removing air con as my classic didnt have this and this is the first time i took a spanner to a newage engine bay , taking the top mount removes pretty easy like the classic one???

if anyone can give me any info on connecting the oil pressure and how to remove the bits in the way , also how to wire it up so the oem one works as well would be great


thanks

I used a Scoobyclinic adaptor... you just need to screw both sensors into the baby and check for leaks.

The Defi parts don't affect any of the standard fit equipment, they are purely additions.

HTH

dunx

P.S. Off to Google... couldn't find it ! One of the hose and block type adaptors may be easier to install ( ? )

You don't need to remove the aircon, just the alternator. Pressure can be remote mounted but temp needs to be in the gallery direct for the most accurate reading.

cheers frayz

if fitting an aftermarket pressure adaptor , do i need to disconnect the oem one , if so will a dash light come on

not fitting defi there are prosport gauges

Some info on the links

http://www.egauges.com/Defi/meter_inst.html#1

http://www.defi-shop.com/product/din/din_manual.html


Mick
:thumb:

The fitting kit sold by Scoobyworld will do you just fine mate. This allows you to run both the pressure sender from the gauge and the OEM pressure switch so the light on the dash will function as normal.

cheers
will have to check if mine that came of my classic is the same then