cost to supply and fit defi's
#2
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What model and model year
They differ, since they are made to match the different dashes, some, like the white faced ones are almost impossible to get now, except from one or two places or second hand.
Supply will be north of £400, and fitting can be done yourself if you have any confidence, or budget for four-five hours at however much £££ per hour.
They differ, since they are made to match the different dashes, some, like the white faced ones are almost impossible to get now, except from one or two places or second hand.
Supply will be north of £400, and fitting can be done yourself if you have any confidence, or budget for four-five hours at however much £££ per hour.
#7
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Four bleedin' wires and the odd adaptor...
1 hour labour for each max.
IMHO.
dunx
I did five in a morning on mine, including the oil P & T sensors... EGT took another hour and a welding job.
1 hour labour for each max.
IMHO.
dunx
I did five in a morning on mine, including the oil P & T sensors... EGT took another hour and a welding job.
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#9
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I see what youre saying mate, but its not quite like that if you want to do the job properly. ie fitting the senders in the galleries, removing the alternator.
Making up and properly protecting a fly lead to run the oem oil pressure switch. Clipping everything up neat and out of the way.
Theres workmanship and then theres workmanship. But agree some of the prices banded around for gauge fitting is off the scale!!
#10
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most things with servicing installing upgraded parts they do them in half the stated time makes you sick considering the hourly rates people charge
#12
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I see what youre saying mate, but its not quite like that if you want to do the job properly. ie fitting the senders in the galleries, removing the alternator.
Making up and properly protecting a fly lead to run the oem oil pressure switch. Clipping everything up neat and out of the way.
Theres workmanship and then theres workmanship. But agree some of the prices banded around for gauge fitting is off the scale!!
Making up and properly protecting a fly lead to run the oem oil pressure switch. Clipping everything up neat and out of the way.
Theres workmanship and then theres workmanship. But agree some of the prices banded around for gauge fitting is off the scale!!
I still reckon if you know what you are doing that a GOOD job can be done in 4-5 hours.
#13
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I see what youre saying mate, but its not quite like that if you want to do the job properly. ie fitting the senders in the galleries, removing the alternator.
Making up and properly protecting a fly lead to run the oem oil pressure switch. Clipping everything up neat and out of the way.
Theres workmanship and then theres workmanship. But agree some of the prices banded around for gauge fitting is off the scale!!
Making up and properly protecting a fly lead to run the oem oil pressure switch. Clipping everything up neat and out of the way.
Theres workmanship and then theres workmanship. But agree some of the prices banded around for gauge fitting is off the scale!!
But, Yes I agree that doing it right is important... I love working on MY car because it's "Fail-Free", doing it for others leads to stress.
I don't do stress at my age, it could finish me off
dunx
P.S. Have to admit the up-pipe was new and had to be fitted anyway...
P.P.S. I used to have to crimp 3600 SEH terminals an hour onto leads identical to the Defi ones, the Apexi AVC-R terminals (SHF & SYM)were much bigger and lots easier to get done.
Last edited by dunx; 10 December 2010 at 01:43 PM.
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is the a guide on what and how to remove the things in the engine bay to fit the sensors
i.e.fly lead for oem pressure
can manage the dash stuff and connecting everything inside the car , just unsure on what stuff needs to be removed under the bonnet , does the air con and alternator need to be removed etc etc
its a my02 sti
i.e.fly lead for oem pressure
can manage the dash stuff and connecting everything inside the car , just unsure on what stuff needs to be removed under the bonnet , does the air con and alternator need to be removed etc etc
its a my02 sti
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But "us" engineers know what counts, get right, then make it pretty... or if you can, do both at once...
dunx
P.S. Each of my looms cost around £1200 each, half went to the military the rest to the oil industry. The only two areas of use who could afford them
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is the a guide on what and how to remove the things in the engine bay to fit the sensors
i.e.fly lead for oem pressure
can manage the dash stuff and connecting everything inside the car , just unsure on what stuff needs to be removed under the bonnet , does the air con and alternator need to be removed etc etc
its a my02 sti
i.e.fly lead for oem pressure
can manage the dash stuff and connecting everything inside the car , just unsure on what stuff needs to be removed under the bonnet , does the air con and alternator need to be removed etc etc
its a my02 sti
I used a Scoobyclinic adaptor for the oil pressure and a Scoobyparts adaptor in the block ( No.3 cylinder ).
HTH
dunx
P.S. The four wires to the standard clock are all you need to get up and running.
#19
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got all adaptors from when i removed from my classic
just found this on another thread
BAT = Battery.....positive...Red wire (constant power)
GND = Ground ...negative....Black wire (ground)
LIG = Lights on/off..........White wire (illumination)
ACC = Ignition...Orange wire (switched power)
clock wires , so that bit looks straight forward , just concerned about removing air con as my classic didnt have this and this is the first time i took a spanner to a newage engine bay , taking the top mount removes pretty easy like the classic one???
if anyone can give me any info on connecting the oil pressure and how to remove the bits in the way , also how to wire it up so the oem one works as well would be great
thanks
just found this on another thread
BAT = Battery.....positive...Red wire (constant power)
GND = Ground ...negative....Black wire (ground)
LIG = Lights on/off..........White wire (illumination)
ACC = Ignition...Orange wire (switched power)
clock wires , so that bit looks straight forward , just concerned about removing air con as my classic didnt have this and this is the first time i took a spanner to a newage engine bay , taking the top mount removes pretty easy like the classic one???
if anyone can give me any info on connecting the oil pressure and how to remove the bits in the way , also how to wire it up so the oem one works as well would be great
thanks
#20
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I used a Scoobyclinic adaptor... you just need to screw both sensors into the baby and check for leaks.
The Defi parts don't affect any of the standard fit equipment, they are purely additions.
HTH
dunx
P.S. Off to Google... couldn't find it ! One of the hose and block type adaptors may be easier to install ( ? )
The Defi parts don't affect any of the standard fit equipment, they are purely additions.
HTH
dunx
P.S. Off to Google... couldn't find it ! One of the hose and block type adaptors may be easier to install ( ? )
Last edited by dunx; 11 December 2010 at 08:45 AM.
#23
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Some info on the links
http://www.egauges.com/Defi/meter_inst.html#1
http://www.defi-shop.com/product/din/din_manual.html
Mick
http://www.egauges.com/Defi/meter_inst.html#1
http://www.defi-shop.com/product/din/din_manual.html
Mick
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