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dccd
hi there can anybody tell me what a dccd should be running if not connected to the controller? i only ask as ive just fitted a v-ltd box and diff but havnt yet wired it. up the car drives much much better but there is a strange noise and feeling coming from the back end when i turn from a junction it feels like its in the mid position on the thumb wheel (i have tryed my friends car with dccd in mid position). any help would be great:thumb:
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if the controller is not connected, it will be as open as it can be. in other words, as rear as it can be.
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What car was the box fitted to?
Tony:) |
Originally Posted by TonyBurns
(Post 9010950)
What car was the box fitted to?
Tony:) |
Did you change the rear diff?
Tony:) |
Originally Posted by scoobRA
(Post 9010842)
if the controller is not connected, it will be as open as it can be. in other words, as rear as it can be.
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Originally Posted by TonyBurns
(Post 9011251)
Did you change the rear diff?
Tony:) |
The rear diff is definately a 3.9 ratio and not a 4.44?
Tony:) |
^^ as Tony says above, check then check again.
I destroyed a centre diff during a sprint as the rear and centre weren't the same ratios. It showed the same symptoms (I'd just fitted DCCD too) then big bang (on railway straight at Aintree- some of you may know it ;)) |
Originally Posted by danny-goddard
(Post 9011269)
ok thanks can you tell me if the noise im hearing is because the diff controller is not wired up? also the rear diff seems tight after a short run?
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What model classic V limited box as they run with all sorts of varieties? They can be 3.9, but can also be other ratios too - see here: The SPDA - Transmission Chart
I used to run 4.44 front and rear diffs with a classic dccd, for instance. If a classic v limited then an unconnected dccd box will be roughly two thirds rear drive , one third front drive and will be as smooth to drive as a normal box. It really does sound like you've got mismatched front and rear diff ratios an dthis will kill the dccd very quickly if so. |
Originally Posted by Fat Boy
(Post 9011671)
What model classic V limited box as they run with all sorts of varieties? They can be 3.9, but can also be other ratios too - see here: The SPDA - Transmission Chart
I used to run 4.44 front and rear diffs with a classic dccd, for instance. If a classic v limited then an unconnected dccd box will be roughly two thirds rear drive , one third front drive and will be as smooth to drive as a normal box. It really does sound like you've got mismatched front and rear diff ratios an dthis will kill the dccd very quickly if so. |
ok cards on table time--- my gearbox and diff came from my mate who rolled his car and ended up breaking it for spares. after a while he bought another v-ltd it was the same year same spec same everything it was even the next one off the production line the 1st one was number 176 and his new one is number 177 (freaky i know) however he seemed to like the feel of his old gear box better and decided to swap it from his old car to his new one. he didnt howerver change the diff as he said for sure the ratios would be the same???? his car drives with no noise or problems at all. so that left me with the box from one car and the diff from another. could this be the problem we didnt think it could be but im sure one of you out there will have a answer for us :freak3:
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Mine had no other symptoms other than what felt like a tight diff when manoevering at low speed, but this isn't abnormal for a dccd box, and I put it down to that.
Just looking for the photos of the remains of my centre |
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ouch mate was that coused bye the wrong diff then?
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Originally Posted by TonyBurns
(Post 9011287)
The rear diff is definately a 3.9 ratio and not a 4.44?
Tony:) |
Originally Posted by danny-goddard
(Post 9012583)
ouch mate was that coused bye the wrong diff then?
I'm really surprised that it lasted as long as it did as it used to get so much abuse. It used to eat rear diffs regularly; this happened the same week as I fitted the DCCD centre and 'matched, from the same car' rear diff- as I was told- which turned out to be slightly less than true.... Fortunately we have the rather excellent David at API who sorted it all out for me. Think I still have the knackered box.. must weigh it in. |
Originally Posted by RRH
(Post 9012605)
Yep- It did manage to do three (hard) practice runs for the sprint, on road tyres- cadwell the days before (dry, full slicks) and castle combe the day before that (wet, on full wets).
I'm really surprised that it lasted as long as it did as it used to get so much abuse. It used to eat rear diffs regularly; this happened the same week as I fitted the DCCD centre and 'matched, from the same car' rear diff- as I was told- which turned out to be slightly less than true.... Fortunately we have the rather excellent David at API who sorted it all out for me. Think I still have the knackered box.. must weigh it in. |
Mods, can you move this to drivetrain please?
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Originally Posted by RRH
(Post 9012785)
Mods, can you move this to drivetrain please?
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I'm asking the moderators to move it to 'drivetrain' - you'll get better advice from the mechanically minded members that don't read the 'general' sevtion
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Danny
I'd would ring David at API as mentioned above - he does lots of box/diff swaps for members on here. But, firstly although it seems unlikely that the diff should be different if you genuinely saw it come out of one car and go in with definitely the matching box, to remove all doubt and to begin to answer the question about whether its a 3.9 or a 4.1 or a 4.44 diff, you ideally need can you tell us what gearbox code was on the side of the box e.g. Ty752 xxxx or TY754xxx and you can then check (from that SPDA chart I gave you the link to) what front diff you definitely have in that box and then what transfer gears you have/should have i.e. 1.1:1 or 1:1. That will then tell you what rear diff you need, as it's by no means definite that you need a 3.9. The same questions will be asked by the likes of David or any competent garage so best to find out the answers first. In terms of finding out what rear diff you have the usual way is to count the number of teeth on the crown wheel - which you can do by removing one of the inspection bolts on the back of the diff through which you will be able to see the teeth. Put a dab of tippex on one tooth and with all 4 car wheels jacked off the ground - rotate the wheels, counting the teeth until the tippex comes back into view. The number of teeth will tell the likes of David what diff you have - can't remember the numbers myself I'm afraid. Post the gearbox code in here if you'd like me or someone else to double check against the chart as well. Good luck FB |
Originally Posted by Fat Boy
(Post 9012968)
Danny
I'd would ring David at API as mentioned above - he does lots of box/diff swaps for members on here. But, firstly although it seems unlikely that the diff should be different if you genuinely saw it come out of one car and go in with definitely the matching box, to remove all doubt and to begin to answer the question about whether its a 3.9 or a 4.1 or a 4.44 diff, you ideally need can you tell us what gearbox code was on the side of the box e.g. Ty752 xxxx or TY754xxx and you can then check (from that SPDA chart I gave you the link to) what front diff you definitely have in that box and then what transfer gears you have/should have i.e. 1.1:1 or 1:1. That will then tell you what rear diff you need, as it's by no means definite that you need a 3.9. The same questions will be asked by the likes of David or any competent garage so best to find out the answers first. In terms of finding out what rear diff you have the usual way is to count the number of teeth on the crown wheel - which you can do by removing one of the inspection bolts on the back of the diff through which you will be able to see the teeth. Put a dab of tippex on one tooth and with all 4 car wheels jacked off the ground - rotate the wheels, counting the teeth until the tippex comes back into view. The number of teeth will tell the likes of David what diff you have - can't remember the numbers myself I'm afraid. Post the gearbox code in here if you'd like me or someone else to double check against the chart as well. Good luck FB |
Yep 3.9 diff and the right one according to the chart- so can only be a 1:1 trasnfer gear set up, the diffs are all right and its a 65R 35F split.
Hmmm, the plates in the centre diff might be worn out or wrong transmission fluid - its an LSD type oil not a usual gearbox oil. Beyond that it might just be a rooted box? again I'd give David oBrien a call at API - he's very approachable and happy to give advice or to help |
Originally Posted by Fat Boy
(Post 9014117)
Yep 3.9 diff and the right one according to the chart- so can only be a 1:1 trasnfer gear set up, the diffs are all right and its a 65R 35F split.
Hmmm, the plates in the centre diff might be worn out or wrong transmission fluid - its an LSD type oil not a usual gearbox oil. Beyond that it might just be a rooted box? again I'd give David oBrien a call at API - he's very approachable and happy to give advice or to help |
As you've probably found out there is loads of contrary opinion on which oil is right but John Felstead on here/22B seems to be as well informed as anyone having spent ages researching the dccd and he has been very happy with Redline Heavyweight shockproof in his despite some people saying its not suitable, he did lots of trackdays etc with that in his dccd. It seems like synthetic 75W90 can display similar sounds to what you describe. Might be worth a whirl.
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ok where can i get this oil ?? many thanks
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Quite a long time ago now, i changed my mind on the Redline heavy shock proof oil being the best oil to use in a Subaru box.
It worked fine for me for many hard miles on track, but after talking with the Redline oil engineers in the USA i was told by them that this oil should not be used in gearboxes that have a central shaft lubrication feed path, which the Subaru has. Redline heavy shockproof has synthetic balls suspended in the oil that cushion the load points, when the oil is inside a spinning shaft the balls get centrifuged out of the oil so you don't have a consistent lubricant feeding the bearings. It may work OK for you, as it did for me, but i cant hand on heart recommend it based on what Redline's engineers told me. I've been using Millers range of motorsport oils ever since, I'm currently using their Nano technology oil in my STI9 box and diff. I think the Motorsport oil in the box may need to come out for winter, as it's tightened up the syncros a little when cold, so once we get to freezing temps it may be better to go to a normal GL5, but thats to be decided upon yet based on if it gets any worse than it is right now. |
Originally Posted by Fat Boy
(Post 9014117)
Yep 3.9 diff and the right one according to the chart- so can only be a 1:1 trasnfer gear set up, the diffs are all right and its a 65R 35F split.
Hmmm, the plates in the centre diff might be worn out or wrong transmission fluid - its an LSD type oil not a usual gearbox oil. Beyond that it might just be a rooted box? again I'd give David oBrien a call at API - he's very approachable and happy to give advice or to help The rear diff, asuming it has the correct plated LSD, needs an LSD type oil. |
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