what mods SHOULD be done first
 

hi all please be patient with me im new to scoobys but not jap cars
i used to have a supra mkiv s14a and s13 200sx so as you can tell i like my jap turbos

i was just looking for advice on scoobys what mods would you say were best done first my car is a standard 95 wrx import
http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-...940355_803.jpg

want something resonably quick as the pesky corsas with the 2.0 turbos round my way are a pain in the arse when they see anything japanese

any help will be greatly recieved
matt

Brakes and suspension first.

Then look at power such as decat exhaust system, bigger top mount or front mount intercooler, remap etc etc etc

see my scoob
<<<<<

very nice mate!

i was told by the guy i bought the car off that it had been lowered slightly but i think he was lying tbh, what sort of brake upgrade we talking disks and pads or whole overhaul?

what sort of boost can these things take safely with supporting mods ie exhaust and decat, induction kit (if at all worth having one or just a panel filter)

Hi, welcome to the club!
The best mod i've done to mine by far is the whiteline roll bars. They transformed the car, and cost £120 each or so, also change the drop links while your there.
This lot won't require a geo setup, as your not changing the cambers ect, although it's a good idea to get this done anyway.
The brakes on the early cars are rubbish! Fitting a set of later 4 pots will help, calipers,disks and pads can be had for £150-£200 the lot.
As far as tuning, it depends what power your after.
You can start with a simple exhaust,filter and plug in chip, which will see you up to 280-300bhp.
Then, as you want more, then a ESL live ecu upgrade will be good, with later map sensor(allows you to run more than 1.1bar boost), bigger injectors (440cc) and larger intercooler would see you up to 320-330bhp.
Second hand stuff is a good way to keep costs down, the exhaust,filter (panel) and chip can all be had for £300.
The ESL ecu needs fitting and mapping by a tuner, and costs about £550+vat fitted/mapped. Injectors £60, map sensor £60.
I wouldn't fit an induction kit, just change the panel filter element.
Be warned, it's well adictive! My RA was standard a year ago when i got it, look at my profile now!!!

Mit

Oh, and my clutch is slipping now with the extra power, so in for an uprated one and lightened flywheel in january, bare this in mind!

mit, I'll be needing a clutch sooner rather than later and while I'm at it, will look to get the flywheel replaced. What ones are you looking at? Will that 5.9kg Excedy one on eBay be any good? (don't want to have to contend with a crap idle/stalling, etc...)

I've done a bit of research, and am going for the Api clutch and flywheel, £740 fitted.
Api take an exedy clutch and uprate the friction material, David said it'll be good for 400bhp, which is perfect for me! The lightweight flywheel they do is the standard one machined down to 7kg(standards 12kg). This gives a noticeable gain, without being too light.
I spoke to other people, and Api was the best price. They also do an AP clutch, which they say is very good, but more expensive. Im happy to have something with Api's guarantee, as they keep to their word! If it brakes, they replace it! If an exedy/AP/helix gives up, chances are you'll only recover the cost of the clutch, not the labour.
Just an example, this clutch was an uprated exedy clutch i fitted to my last car, a 2.5 classic. It exploded whilst running the engine in! It took a year to get a replacement from them, and when it turned up, it was a cheap diakin version, not the £350 one i had!:mad: I also had to pay all the fitting costs again!
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...thy457/132.jpg

Hope you have deep pockets, as when the modding bug starts it doesnt stop.

Here is what I done on mine, it gives you a sort of idea to start with on the handling and brakes. Keep an eye open for items coming up for sale on this site, thats where I got most of my parts.


Standard STI shocks with Whiteline lowered springs
Cusco upper front strut brace
Cusco lower rear stut brace
Cusco upper rear strut brace
Whiteline lower front h-brace
Whiteline alloy rear droplinks
Whiteline rear subframe lock bolts
Whiteline rear 20'' antiroll bar (middle hole)
STI front alloy wishbones
Powerflex bushes



Grooved front & back discs
Mintex extreme pads front & back
Goodridge brake hoses front & back

Also think about getting an anti-lift kit fitted. After all thats done, then its more money on the engine mods...... you see it never stops.

MIT,

does the Throttle body coolant bypass make any difference to the car ? is it worth doing.

Cheers.

Yeah, I would also use APi due to their profound knowledge and excellent after care 'policy'... Especially as a couple of their mechanics changed another member's clutch in an hour the other week! :eek: :D (okay, so I know it was at the end of the day :D lol). Nonetheless, it shows how much they know about the cars :).

Re you're previous clutch saga, that's disgraceful service! :confused: (I also remember reading about it in an older thread).

P.S. I apologise to the OP for 'muscling in' :lol1: on his thread... but it is all good, relevant knowledge for the future, etc. anyhow :thumb:

To be honest, i don't know!
I did the coolant bypass along with the inlet insulators, header tank insulators, parallel fuel rail mod, breather mod and inlet paint.
One thing i will say is the inlet is much cooler, before i couldn't lean on the inlet manifold if the engine was hot, now i can no problems. I would put this down to the inlet spacers, stopping the heat soak from the block. I spose every little helps!

whoa!
dont mind me all info there will be useful at some time or another!

so the general concensus is sort the stopping and handling before all else!

cheers guys