fitted turbo jacket,wrapped ic pipes with pics
 

here are some better looking pics and the pics of the ic pipes lagged aswell as the downpipe and turbo wrapped and then jacketed too.

i used the cheaper 600c wrap for the ic pipes and then the turbo and down pipe i used dei wrapp it can withstand 2000c

pics

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y19...80708_1829.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y19...80708_1828.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y19...90708_1424.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y19...708_142402.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y19...90708_1437.jpg

jake

nice job buddy! well worth the effort.

i was going to "borrow" some heat shield wrap from work, but was unsure it would do..... from your pics i have decided it has to be tried!

well mixed results really,

the sound has altered. i can now feel a slight vibration through the pedal, wether this is because the dp is right next to the fire wall and it may be closer now i dont know,

the turbo wrap gets warm - tought your meant to be able to touch it, and just comming down to work no booting it my water temp was 90 oC so need to decide wether its worth it or not, need to get the engine bay cooler as its a hybrid turbo.....any suggestions for cooling

Has your car got an undertray? If so, removing it might make the engine bay a bit cooler, but then you'll get dirt and it might affect high speed aerodynamics. Having said that, some people take it off for track work, afaik, so it can't completely ruin the handling :)

The turbo wrap will get warm - but its better than touching the housing without wrap and melting skin! The wrap can only insulate so much - in fact you don't want the turbo housing to be totally insulated otherwise it will overheat and possibly crack.

true, on the heat thing,

engine tray is the next thing to come off, spoke to david at api engines a minute ago and he said the temps im seeing are fine, ad that the thermostat kicks in around 94 i have read you can buy lower temp tstat though.

im guna make a feed to the airfilter area and see if that help,

as for the handling i dont do much of that, way to many speed cameras and traffic cops near me hahaha

The cooltherm stat cracks at 71C IIRC, with my FMIC and aircon I have cruising motorway temps of 86C. But sitting in traffic the car will still get to 90C even with the cooler stat, since its the fans that regulate airflow (hence water temp) over the rad at low speed. Their trip points are something like on at 91, off at 88 IIRC.

think its something to think about deffinately. im going to remove the engine tray and make a feed first and see if it helps, i've also removed the scuttle rubber to allow more air flow out of the back of the bonnet, really dont want to space the higes ala honda lol.

im also thinking of either a smaller number plate or a relocated plate so the entire fmic is showing

jake

the vibration was the dp touching the firewall due to thickness of the material. the coolant temp has gone up a couple of degrees too so the engine is running hotter, also the knock has gone up one or two

is this ok or should i take it all off?????

Looks good.
Where's the turbo jacket from?

Looks like a "custom kit", i.e. one of those where you get a sheet of material and modify it yourself.

Alyn at asperformance do a kit for 130 odd (iirc).

yeah it was just a sheet from a performance guy on ebay, then i got the dei stuff from him too, i think i can feel the turbo spool up a little quicker, but havent really had chance to get the car some where i can use the performance lol.

as for the knock being up a little i think it makes sense as its performing more, guna monitor that,

i have a larger scoop comming along with a side induction scoop.vent that i will make not we the filter, coupled to the engine tray being taken off hopefully temps will drop.

with it being a new car to me, im just very paranoid about it breaking, the last owner fitted a cheap blitz style bov that is sucking in air at idle, which is making it a little lumpy on idle, but you search lumpy ideal and a load of dead engine threads come up, its got a light weight flywheel that can be juddery, if you look that up again dead engine stuff lol, im that paranoid i pressure tested it ( all 130) but still think its broke haha

This stuff works well

Water Wetter

I've used it before on other cars to good effect:)

There are different sorts out there but they all essentially do the same thing

How about a reversed bonnet scoop to draw the hot air out now that you have a FMIC?

i've heard of wetter water on nasioc, might give it a try.

got a bit of info from lads forum too, i wrapped the turbo a little too much so i have now cut some away looks like it should do the trick,

so removed one dei wrap and alot of the reflective jacket to so its gone from this :

https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1...90708_1424.jpg

to this:

https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1...708_114101.jpg

https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1...10708_1141.jpg

looks better, so i'll see what happens now, and if not the whole lot is comming off hopefully thought the wrap on the ic pipes is works,

i have also installed my forge 007p recir dv so that should sort out the crappy idle from the bov that was on, sucking in un metred air may i ad, was an absolute pain in the bum so better be worth it, engine tray will have to wait till tommorw

jake

ps re the reverse scoop, i have read various threads on the scoops, some say they work others not, but its my understanding to be effective you need a smaller vent in front to crate more through flow drag. also the original scoop sends air down the trans mission tunnel too, i will see if the larger scoop is both pleasing and fuctional, if not with it being a fg item i'll chop it n make a custom one lol

well,

i fitted the forge 007p what a difference it makes. the car is tons smoother the lumpy idle has gone just all round improvement, on the heat wrap front the temps have gone down now :oops:

crusing around i am seeing temps of 86-87, the car does seem to spool up quicker, i know it sounds wierd but it does, i think the forge has helped though, i am using the yellow spring which is rated up to 1.5 bar which is perfect for my application and tbh the dv sound loss is very minimal, the sound still comes through the filter-result.

took the car down my secret test road( abandoned area lol)

here are the results

ign timing 46 degrees
airflow 4610 mv
eng.rev 6323
boost +1.37
knock 9
wtr temp 87oC

taken off my fc controller.

so im pretty happy with the results

my tip use a recirc valve haha

There is no point insulating the hard pipe from the compressor to the FMIC core as the air temp from the compressor is often 200-300 C. which is above the engine bay temp.
The silicon pipe is Autobahn. Is it an Autobahn core?

Turbo blankets and heat wrap.
https://www.scoobynet.com/private-sa...clearance.html

i believe it is, the previous owner installed it.

any reason why???