ANOTHER damn Dawes question!!
 

Hello everyone. (i know i know, another bloody Dawes question!!)
Im a new scooby owner, having run plenty of race and road cars (turbo's and NA's) .
However, (JOHN BANKS YOU BETTER BE READING THIS AND RESPONDING!!)
Ive read numerous posts about the Dawes set up and have ordered one for my car, its a 98 model UK spec. (ive never used a dawes before!!)
Im wondering is this a TD04 or a TD05 turbo? i really dont want to have to pull apart all the exhaust wrap and the turbo jacket thats fitted.
Im thinking (after reading a bit) that this car probably sports a TD04. if so do i need to open the bleed hole to 1.5mm like john banks suggest? where is that hole? (the Dawes isnt here yet so maybe its obvious!!) There seems to be threads that go back and forth, and i am going on gut instict that JB knows what hes on about with this lean-at-partial-throttle thing. so is this going to affect my particular model?
Ive got a boost guage fitted ready to monitor boost levels. Ive got a panel filter, with a scoop to feed it, paneled off in the engine bay from the heat, and a 3" turbo back exhaust no cats. All i want to do is make the boost come in a little earlier, and hold a little better, and short of hybrid turbo or wastegate actuator, ECU and whatnot i think maybe this Dawes is a better way of going to start with. I dont want to use a basic bleed valve as i know these are pants, and it would seem the Dawes has got a lot of history as being a good product for the bucks.
This is a learning process for me, as these F4 boxer engines are a new breed to my tuning experience!
So any help would be great!

Dont know bout your MY by my MY93 (my my my :D )runs fine with a Dawes, used in the same way you want to use yours, mapped to 1.1 and DD set at 1.1, just remember the DD does bypass the BCS and ECU therefore prevents the car going into limp mode should the be a problem in the boost system, did you read this post on your searches? It may help! ;) https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...es-device.html

Dont know anything bout drilling the bleed hole, sure your not confusing it with the restrictor in the BCS bleed pipe? :confused:

Any way :thumb: for DD from me but thats just my opinion :cuckoo: :lol1:

Thanks, i had not read that post!:)
On the drilling thing, that still is a confusing issue!! :wonder: Now i dont know if John was talking about drilling the bleed on the Dawes device or on the BCS pipe. Im sure (from what i can gather) its the dawes itself?? Maybe im wrong!!:cuckoo:
BUT im not fitting this thing untill i know for certain, as i dont want detonation or lean running in mid throttle!
Any more thoughts people??

I take it you've searched a few old threads and Johns posts have cropped up?

The Dawes is IMO a great MBC, and works fine for a TD05 straight out of the box. As John had found, with a TD04 the bleed hole (0.5mm IIRC) wasn't big enough to smooth out the on/off nature at part throttle so he opened it out to 1.5mm IIRC.

If your car is a UK MY98 it will have a TD04. John had a lot of success tuning his car, his methods for using a dawes with a TD04 are worth noting.

HTH

Thanks Jay. I thought it was, always nice to have a second opinion.
Ive searched and spent hours trolling the threads, like i said it was a little confusing. So therefore just wanted clarification.
I will open my hole to 1.5mm before i fit it.

Thanks a lot guys!!!

Before you fit the DD it would be a good idea to fit a boost gauge and a AFR gauge, even a good narrow band will let you know if your lean on full, very cheap mods but worth every penny :)

DOH B13bat!!! READ mate!!! i already have one thanks!!!

Mr Bat mentioned an AFR which from your description you don't have. You can monitor your boost but how will you know if the car is running lean under throttle? The bleed hole is on the side of the MBR on the elbowed end which connects to the wastegate actuator. When boost drops and the MBR is 'closed' the pressure on the actuator diaphragm is released via the bleed hole. Run it as it comes and see how it goes before you drill it out as once drilled there's no turning back.
Kevin

You can solder and redrill if necessary