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-   -   Quickshift Fitting (https://www.scoobynet.com/drivetrain-11/353957-quickshift-fitting.html)

scoobylav 17 August 2004 03:04 PM

Quickshift Fitting
 
I have done a search about fitting a quickshift. I have an MY97.

It looks as though you need to just force the old stick out of the ball joint and then just **** the new one hard enough till it pops in.

I don't like being too rough with my scoob so could someone please tell me if this is correct before I get tough with her . . . . . .

Thanks :)

Ian

Krade 17 August 2004 03:40 PM

I fitted a B&M Quickshift to my my95 and it was basicly what you say there, except that the white plastic collar in at the bottom of the original gear stick has a cut out in it to allow you to close the gap and remove it whithout breaking the plastic collar, however mine broke anyway but then are only a £5 from a subaru dealer if you need to replace it when reinstalling the original stick. The B&M has an anodised collar with two O-rings rather than a plastic one so it was pretty easy to fit.

I found it was best have the Knob on the sick when installing so you can exert some pressure to push the new gear stick home.

scoobylav 17 August 2004 03:45 PM

Mine doesn't have the white plastic collar I don't think. It looks just like a ball at the bottom that fits into a white socket, unless it is this you mean.

Krade 17 August 2004 04:07 PM


Originally Posted by scoobylav
Mine doesn't have the white plastic collar I don't think. It looks just like a ball at the bottom that fits into a white socket, unless it is this you mean.

I think the white socket you refer to is the collar I am referring to, when I put my new shift in all I had was a metal cup which the anodised collar (which has the ball joint in it) sat in. I think you'll have to remove the white part aswell, although it may be totally differnet on a later car.

Sorry if ive not helped to clear things up :(

Butty 17 August 2004 05:34 PM

If you don't want to tw4t it then the proper way is to get under the car and remove the circlip that holds the ball in the socket.
Everything then pulls out nice and easy.

Nick

RRH 17 August 2004 07:40 PM

....and falls to bits;) just tw4t it. it will be fine!

Dyney 17 August 2004 08:00 PM

Just pull the old gear stick back (unbolt the pivot first!!) and it should pop out.

Put a block between the bottom of the shifter and the prop shaft. (Takes out the movement in the gearbox when you "****" the new one in) :)

Jiggerypokery 17 August 2004 08:05 PM


Originally Posted by Butty
If you don't want to tw4t it then the proper way is to get under the car and remove the circlip that holds the ball in the socket.
Everything then pulls out nice and easy.

Nick


Originally Posted by RRH
....and falls to bits;) just tw4t it. it will be fine!


I'm in the same position, I got the original shifter out of the socket, but I've been "twatting" it for ages trying to get the new one in and I've got sore hands now :(

I glanced at the manual, it mentions taking off the exhaust, heatshield etc etc :eek: too much! Do I really have to go to all this bother? If I undo the four bolts around the plate, will a load of stuff hit the garage floor? :confused:

Jiggerypokery 17 August 2004 08:08 PM

Can I **** it with a hammer? :eek:

CataIunya 17 August 2004 08:47 PM

take off the knob, use an offcut of wood to protect the thread then **** till yer hearts content....its tough you will sort it in the end tho

scoobylav 18 August 2004 09:16 AM

Jiggerypokery what year is yours ?

Butty I thought the circlip was accessable from the top i.e inside

Butty 18 August 2004 09:58 AM


Originally Posted by scoobylav
Jiggerypokery what year is yours ?

Butty I thought the circlip was accessable from the top i.e inside

No - its underneath. There may be loads of grime hiding it but a good clean should show it up.

Undoing the four bolts will just let the gear change fall on top of the mid section.
To undo the circlip really needs the mid section off but the underbody heat shiled can stay on.

If you must tw4t it then perhaps wedging something to stop the g/change socket from moving down would work (although I've never tried it).
The wedge would have to go betweeen the exhaust mid section and the socket, or say a length of wood that is wedged tight against the ground to the socket would do the trick.

Nick


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