Clunking sound from a jdm wide track
I recently bought a jdm sti,there is a clunking sound from the rear,it only happens when moving off at slow speed or on turns, if I rev the engine and move off from a junction it does not clunk
Could it be a faulty rear diff or a aftermarket lsd Can anyone help or advise what to check Regards |
I had the exact same problem after numerous suspension items being changed it was the c.v joint on the rear passenger side in the end
|
Does your car have DCCD? its probably just the diff making the noise. I believe it does it when its on a certain split.
|
Originally Posted by ZANY
(Post 11847915)
I had the exact same problem after numerous suspension items being changed it was the c.v joint on the rear passenger side in the end
It feels as a cv joint to me too I will check them :thumb: |
Originally Posted by MATT93
(Post 11847928)
Does your car have DCCD? its probably just the diff making the noise. I believe it does it when its on a certain split.
Yes it's got DCCD,it makes the noise in every setting aswell as auto :thumb: |
Originally Posted by mhussein
(Post 11847930)
Yes it's got DCCD,it makes the noise in every setting aswell as auto
:thumb: Matt. |
Mine does this too on my widetrack apparently it's normal. Although to me it seems as though something needs lubing or fluid.
|
Originally Posted by mhussein
(Post 11847929)
It feels as a cv joint to me too
I will check them :thumb: |
Originally Posted by MATT93
(Post 11847937)
Honestly think it'll just be the adjustable diff. Find someone local with another STI with DCCD and see if it makes the same noise.
Matt. |
Originally Posted by jonnyboy82
(Post 11847985)
Mine does this too on my widetrack apparently it's normal. Although to me it seems as though something needs lubing or fluid.
I will change the rear oil diff and see if that helps :thumb: |
Originally Posted by ZANY
(Post 11847989)
You won't be able to tell while the shaft is on the car bro as I tried that before I replaced my top mounts and shocks, I currently own a widetrack and there's no noises whatsoever from the rear so not a normal clunk noise to live with IMO:thumb:
I can feel the clunk in the cabin,will remove the drive shaftshafts and check them too :thumb: |
I had incorrect oil in my rear diff and changed it to motul 90PA and it's much better, hardly makes any noise now. But are you sure it's diff as I previously had issues and it was pads loose in calipers, changed to a better pad and used brake grease and it stopped
|
Originally Posted by mhussein
(Post 11848043)
Did the suspension sort your issue out bro
I can feel the clunk in the cabin,will remove the drive shaftshafts and check them too :thumb: |
Originally Posted by daz1968
(Post 11848206)
I had incorrect oil in my rear diff and changed it to motul 90PA and it's much better, hardly makes any noise now. But are you sure it's diff as I previously had issues and it was pads loose in calipers, changed to a better pad and used brake grease and it stopped
|
Originally Posted by ZANY
(Post 11848223)
Here's a list before I got to the culprit bro: Rear top mounts, then all struts, arb and drop links, then the diff cradle bushes, then I took both shafts out the passenger hub side was gone pretty expensive do as all parts where bought brand new and genuine apart from the spec c struts and white line arb kit bought after all that it was better on gear changes felt a lot more tight worth it if your keeping the car
Thanks |
Originally Posted by mhussein
(Post 11848353)
Is there a guide on here how to remove the shafts,do I check for play in the cv joint to see if they are gone
Thanks |
Is it ok to use Millers 75 90 nt ls for the rear diff
|
I used motul 90 pa and the noise on my car turned out to be rear left strut.
|
I'd go with rear strut noise too. Very common.
|
Originally Posted by BrownPantsRacing
(Post 11848940)
I'd go with rear strut noise too. Very common.
|
My advice would be to only buy coilovers if you can afford good ones. Most of the average £600-£800 price versions won't last very well and will start knocking themselves after a while, coupled with the fact coilovers could spoil your ride for a road car.
My Impreza has OEM replacement rear shocks with lowering springs all round (and a few other suspension mods) and is a great car to drive on the road. Handles great and you can live with it every day. My Forester STI had uprated struts, but I've just upgraded these to MeisterR coilovers and so far I'm very pleased indeed. |
Originally Posted by mhussein
(Post 11848950)
Is it worth replacing them with std ones or better to go for coilovers
|
Tein coilovers have very harsh spring rates and are known to be too stiff and unforgiving for UK roads.
|
I have upgraded my standard widetrack suspension for the rb320 bilsteins with tein lowering spring and mine still clunks.
|
Originally Posted by jonnyboy82
(Post 11849041)
I have upgraded my standard widetrack suspension for the rb320 bilsteins with tein lowering spring and mine still clunks.
SN member 2pot will be able to answer your question in detail mate but why did you replace the springs as they are allready lowered items made by eibach for prodrive when producing the setup for the rb320?? If you ever want rid of the blistein struts give me a shout I'll take them as spares to be refurbed :thumb: |
That's how I bought them off Mattyb on here.
|
Originally Posted by jonnyboy82
(Post 11849096)
That's how I bought them off Mattyb on here.
|
Originally Posted by ZANY
If they are the silver/grey blisteins Get the original prodrive eibach springs guy sells them on eBay genuine prodrive brand new in the box @£110 delivered you'll be amazed how both springs and struts behave:thumb:
|
Might be loose driveshaft to hub nuts.
|
All sorted
It was the rear struts Thanks everyone |
All times are GMT +1. The time now is 03:35 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands