Clunking sound from a jdm wide track
#1
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Clunking sound from a jdm wide track
I recently bought a jdm sti,there is a clunking sound from the rear,it only happens when moving off at slow speed or on turns, if I rev the engine and move off from a junction it does not clunk
Could it be a faulty rear diff or a aftermarket lsd
Can anyone help or advise what to check
Regards
Could it be a faulty rear diff or a aftermarket lsd
Can anyone help or advise what to check
Regards
#2
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I had the exact same problem after numerous suspension items being changed it was the c.v joint on the rear passenger side in the end
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#8
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You won't be able to tell while the shaft is on the car bro as I tried that before I replaced my top mounts and shocks, I currently own a widetrack and there's no noises whatsoever from the rear so not a normal clunk noise to live with IMO
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I can feel the clunk in the cabin,will remove the drive shaftshafts and check them too
Last edited by mhussein; 20 June 2016 at 02:15 PM.
#12
I had incorrect oil in my rear diff and changed it to motul 90PA and it's much better, hardly makes any noise now. But are you sure it's diff as I previously had issues and it was pads loose in calipers, changed to a better pad and used brake grease and it stopped
#13
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Here's a list before I got to the culprit bro: Rear top mounts, then all struts, arb and drop links, then the diff cradle bushes, then I took both shafts out the passenger hub side was gone pretty expensive do as all parts where bought brand new and genuine apart from the spec c struts and white line arb kit bought after all that it was better on gear changes felt a lot more tight worth it if your keeping the car
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I will check the pads
Last edited by mhussein; 21 June 2016 at 03:12 AM.
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Here's a list before I got to the culprit bro: Rear top mounts, then all struts, arb and drop links, then the diff cradle bushes, then I took both shafts out the passenger hub side was gone pretty expensive do as all parts where bought brand new and genuine apart from the spec c struts and white line arb kit bought after all that it was better on gear changes felt a lot more tight worth it if your keeping the car
Thanks
#16
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Best thing is to check them while your changing your diff oil bro rule out the top mounts and struts first as the rear shocks are notorious for going easily
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#21
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My advice would be to only buy coilovers if you can afford good ones. Most of the average £600-£800 price versions won't last very well and will start knocking themselves after a while, coupled with the fact coilovers could spoil your ride for a road car.
My Impreza has OEM replacement rear shocks with lowering springs all round (and a few other suspension mods) and is a great car to drive on the road. Handles great and you can live with it every day.
My Forester STI had uprated struts, but I've just upgraded these to MeisterR coilovers and so far I'm very pleased indeed.
My Impreza has OEM replacement rear shocks with lowering springs all round (and a few other suspension mods) and is a great car to drive on the road. Handles great and you can live with it every day.
My Forester STI had uprated struts, but I've just upgraded these to MeisterR coilovers and so far I'm very pleased indeed.
#22
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I've just got rid of my tein coilovers bro not good for streets or motorway break your **** and back and the noises don't stop great on tracks and B roads I've gone for the blistein rb320 setup but looking out for some spec c items hopefully a lot smoother and the noises have gone
#25
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SN member 2pot will be able to answer your question in detail mate but why did you replace the springs as they are allready lowered items made by eibach for prodrive when producing the setup for the rb320??
If you ever want rid of the blistein struts give me a shout I'll take them as spares to be refurbed
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#28
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Originally Posted by ZANY
If they are the silver/grey blisteins Get the original prodrive eibach springs guy sells them on eBay genuine prodrive brand new in the box @£110 delivered you'll be amazed how both springs and struts behave