Seems like no other workshops would offer 2nd opinions, all of them refused me at the door, the auto scene is kind of sad in Singapore... Bottom line, they do not want the responsibility.

I don't know how my current workshop do their timing, my guess is same as OE. I believe the only thing they followed from the datasheet are the clearances. Relayed my concerns about the exhaust timing (due to occasional hesitation at low rpm), but they say it is impossible that it will go off. :( They are just adamant the installation is correct.

I just hope it is choked banjo screens, but I am not that optimistic...

And what is the Group N/Prodive way of dialing std pulleys?

Show them this thread.;)

It is done by totally removing the locating pins from the exhaust cams in your case, dialing the cams in to the spec sheet/Maximum Opening Point and then torquing the cam pulley retaining bolt up - sounds scary but does work.




Mick

If they didn't dial the cams in when they built the engine, then there is no way they can say it was right in the first place !

If the cams have a 'bad grind' on them from the manufacturer causing your problems, then this would easily be spotted when dialing the cams in to the data sheet supplied with the cams.

Mick

Hmm... removed the banjo screens myself, broke one bolt as I over torqued :lol:

2 more on the turbo and passenger side to remove, have to do that at the workshop.

I need more ammo to bombard the workshop. Let's assume the cams are ok, what other things could affect AVCS?

- Camshaft sensor? What symptoms would a dodgy sensor do? Idle issues?
- Crank sensor? Symptoms? Hesitation? I did have a long crank up once days ago.

On a separate issue, would a foul spark plug cause a occasional spittoon spitting sound on the driver side at low rpm (and hesitation)? My driver side cam gear was faulty for 3000km or so.

Ahem
U have gone from guess work to finding your cams haven't been installed correct ( wich is what I was guessing when I brought the cams up ( at a shot in the dark )
You asked your mechanic - he said he put them in & set timing up as ( stock ?
Now your saying - the cams are ok
It's this , it's that , it could be
But of a pickle your in here m8
If you payed for a engine build ( one that works )
Take the car back & demand one that does

No I have no discount the cams, I am saying assuming the cams are ok.

I would like to understand to how cams and AVCS are correlated, and how cams will affect the functionality of AVCS.

Well, the opened the heads up again, see anything wrong???

http://i61.tinypic.com/x1y2rr.jpg
http://i62.tinypic.com/2wfsu3n.jpg
http://i57.tinypic.com/2iabeix.jpg

You on the OEM ECU?

Yes oem

Just so you're aware.... if the Neutral Position Switch on the gearbox is playing up, this can cause the AVCS not to respond. I'm not sure if your symptoms are the same, but this is a common issue that affects AVCS operation.

Even for 4eat there's that switch? How does it look like?

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/SU...auto_trans.jpg

http://galleryplus.ebayimg.com/ws/we.../1000x1000.jpg

Inhibitor switch 31918AA000
Harness 31911AA001 or 31918AA010
or
Kit: inhibitor switch/harness/plastic guide X31918AA000K

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-OEM-Subaru-Inhibitor-Neutral-Safety-Switch-Harness-Kit-Outback-Legacy-/200973289972?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ecaf109f4&vxp=mtr

That's not the NPS.

Here's the location depicted by the picture in this thread https://www.scoobynet.com/lighting-a...-location.html

'tis; for his transmission.
:fight:

Whoops.... apologies. :o

That will teach me to assume type without checking first. :)

Hi Shaun

But still this will show up on the any diagnostic machine or no ?

Thanks,Jura

Only the inactivity of the cams, not the switch itself afaik.

not always unless the switch is completely knackered. if you were stationary and worked the gears it would show it working, however start to run it down the road the switch will start to flicker off if you graph it. which does like shaun says effect the operation of the avcs

Interesting... will go check it out later. I got a good feeling about this haha, perhaps my TC installation a few months back botched it

An inhibitor switch informs the tcu what position the selector is in - Neutral, D,3,2,1 etc (have you got the sport shift option?) and therefore what map/revs are required.
However, the tcu would over-ride the selected map, if it detected over-reving for the selected postion, by reducing fuelling.

You normally get 16 flashes of the dash auto light, on start up, if there was a fault detected when you, previously, drove the car.

I don't get you :wonder:

If there's a transmission fault, there's normally a 16 x flashing light, when you start the car.

If you've got a code reader, the fault codes for the neutral safety switch are P0851/P0852

Technical service bulletin (TSB) 16-68-06

http://www.bescaredracing.com/sti/ts...procedures.pdf

http://downloads.bustedfingermotorsp...r%20switch.pdf

HTH

Ok, got it fixed up again, changed all the sensors, checked the neutral switch, it's still the same...

Though... I have P1096 code in the OBD reader without CEL. Correct me if I am wrong, TGV codes usually make the car go into limp mode right? Will that affect AVCS operation?

Mechanically, everything seems in order. Now left with the tuner, which isn't getting back to me with any information useful for diagnosis.