Sounds like his block could be a nutshell now, I hope not.

I Think he should Tell us who did the build

:idea: Sound like OIL PUMP !!!

+1:thumb:

I don't think he should say another word, and definitely not name the builder. These threads historically end badly for the owner, when the masses turn on them due to their lack of patience/loyalty/correct running in process. Then all the mappers turn on each other, and it ends up like a fight scene from Anchorman! "Look, Bob Rawle killed someone with a trident!"*


*Bob was never there.

lol at the above i wouldnt say anything mate til you know exactly what caused the failure

Nor would I.

I cannot see the point of the thread unless he is trying to gain sympathy in "taking on" his engine builder, or scare the guy into doing something for him.

Whichever, it's pretty low.

If your engine builder had screwed up surely it wouldn't even last 4000 miles of hard driving. Why was the oil pressure light on? Iv heard of fractured pick up pipes causing low pressure on start up but showing normal pressure on the gauge when running this is why some people keep the OE sensor aswell as a gauge as while your gauges are doing their start up sweep they are missing your low oil pressure.

Oil pressure warning light illuminates at a stupidly low pressure, as Alcazar mentioned it's fairly worthless.

Oil pressure
 

This is true but the point I mentioned above is purely for early warning of fractured pickup pipe & was recommended to me by a highly respected Specialist.

personally if i had a 4k rebuild i wouldn`t want to pay for it after 6 months, i wouldnt name and shame either unless he treats you like crap, you`ll probably have to some sort of comprimise.

theres nothing wrong with ragging it as long as the oils warmed up, not the water , the oil, whats the point in having one if you cant rag it.

but a must for all scoobies is an oil pressure gauge ,you might have noticed something before this if you had the gauge.

and what is a phase 2 crank , it might be the rear thrust bearing cranks that are in v5/6

Got an oil pressure gauge ladies

What pressure does it show on idle once warm?

The builder chooses to stay off this forum, for reasons he's explained to me previously. And the fact that he doesn't know my name on here and doesn't know about this thread shows I'm not trying to scare him........cmon girls....were not at school, I was just after some advice, not a commons debate,

What advice could you possibly get off a forum for your situation?

As Banny asked what was your pressure on tick over when the oil was warm?

+1
If you think your going to have your pants pulled down by your Engine Builder,then have an Independant inspection done when the engine is being stripped.

Mick

The builder chooses to stay off this forum, for reasons he's explained to me previously. And the fact that he doesn't know my name on here and doesn't know about this thread shows I'm not trying to scare him........cmon girls....were not at school, I was just after some advice, not a commons debate,

Ermmmmm lemme think, advice on possible causes, what may be wrong, what may be the cure, what you 'experts' may do if you were in my situation???! Nothing wrong with batting ideas about, un earthing every possible cause......

+1:thumb:

I Don't understand why you don't say who did the build mate unless you driven the car very hard 24/7 , You think after a 4k build it should be 100% if you ran the car in right

Like I said before I would put money on its the oil pump 3 and 4 ran lean :freak3: until you take it apart you wont know :nono: Have you told him its gone and if so what he say :wonder:

there are so many possibles mate, no-one will know tbh not till the engine is pulled apart, no-one really knows the cause of big end knock after all this time, some say this, some say that.

from what ive researched over the years is that the dreaded knock is caused by det which over time squashes the shells or puts flat spots in them and then there is too much of a gap between the shells and crank. this too me sounds the most convincing

+1:thumb: that's what happened to mine I believe , I also looked in to this But if yours had a rebuild I still believe its the oil pump It should off been replaced with a uprated one with the build ???? :cuckoo:

uprated as in the valve or pressure, i have heard the higher pressure pumps can actually flow too much at high revs and leave the sump very low as in may run out of oil. as for the valve i `ve looked at them both and i`m not convinced one iota, to me the smooth type of valve looks more likely to stick than the one with a recess in it but the truth is i honestly dont know.
but some knowledgable guy did tell me the non turbo imprezas use the same style pump yet they dont have regular oil changes and the pumps on them never fail . a turbo impreza can have regular oil changes yet the big ends go all the time

OK, firstly, do you want our help or not?
If so, cut the clever comments, eh?

What was your o/p gauge doing when you said the "light came on"?

:notworthy:notworthy:notworthy:notworthy:notworthy :notworthy:notworthy:notworthy:notworthy:notworthy :notworthy:notworthy:notworthy:notworthy


+1:thumb:

There is simply no way we can tell you what happened and speculation on causes is just that- it won't help you one jot! The only person who will be able to tell you what happened is the person who is stripping the engine.

Apologies if I've missed it, but I don't think you've yet even told us whether the build is still under warranty, if not, get your wallet out, seriously, because you will be paying for a new one and that's all there is to it I'm afraid!

There are somewhere in the region of 10 components,and probably more, that if not operating correctly can cause an engine failure, as well as other spurious things that have already been mentioned.

If there was something wrong with the original build, ie incorrect tollerances ect, then that would have been apparent upon start or during the running in process.

As you have said he is a well known and respected builder, i doubt that would be the case as he could probably put one together in his sleep as thats the easy bit, you have to make a very basic mistake to screw things up when putting one of these engines together, as the above is taken care of during the re engineering of the block, and everything would have been checked during a dummy build.

Sounds like you need to keep your builder on side, as you may well find that you are getting your wallet out again and end up relying on his empathy and sense of decency, non of which the starting of this thread suggests you are in possession of, which is not intended as a dig but it is the way this makes you come across, it's as if you started the blame game without any facts.

I do know how you feel as i have been in the same situation.

Just make sure you know who and what your aiming at before you pull the trigger so as to avoid shooting yourself in the foot.

:thumb:

Why is the OP getting stick for asking for advice is that not what this place is for ?

Lads hes just asking for advice, he has not named and shamed until he knows whats going on, clearly knows nothing about engies or he would not have asked the question in the first place.

Hes just sunk 4k into a engine and its now gone wrong hes obviously worried, I know I would be.

Give the guy a break FFS

If the engine builder has also mapped it then tbh Id be knocking on his door end off,even driven hard shouldnt matter if its mapped correctly, obviously as long as it has fluids in it but he has also mentioned levels are fine.

Past experience shows there's always two sides to every story.;)