Dunk: I will take some photographs in the morning and post them up tomorrow night which might assist you. Unfortunately one of the cars has the turbo off just now and hence the induction. I keep a range of trumpets and filters along with a couple of 57i kits and other induction flanges etc. It can be difficult to locate a big filter when the MAF is retained but it is usually a doddle with a Simtek or similar when the MAF has been deleted.
Photos tomorrow evening.
Anders : I can get you a kit similar to the one above when/if you want it. The kit above goes on a customer's car 1 December in advance of a mappping session with Bob Rawle.

No probs Harvey, looking forward to the pic's :thumb:

This is a P1 2.5 litre running a Simtek so no MAF.

http://i36.tinypic.com/1zn5qpj.jpg

http://i33.tinypic.com/2u75b8z.jpg

http://i33.tinypic.com/2823oky.jpg

http://i35.tinypic.com/vqkvw7.jpg

Thanks Harvey!:thumb:

Induction kit fitted to 95 WRX. Note the filter is parallel with 750 bhp capability. The turbo is not twisted but clocked and tilted back to allow direct front entry without the need for an inlet tract under the manifold. One of my own TD05-06 20G. 422 bhp V-Power plus 2ml/l NF.

http://i38.tinypic.com/2v8s9yo.jpg

http://i36.tinypic.com/11b2n38.jpg

http://i33.tinypic.com/2mnf4uo.jpg

Here are some of the induction kits, filters, trumpets, dog legs and joiners we keep in stock as we never know what is going to be required by way of induction on some of the front mount intercoolers that we fit.

http://i33.tinypic.com/2u79mad.jpg

http://i38.tinypic.com/14wc93p.jpg

Will give you a shout for a trumpet some time Harvey, heading back offshore sometime this weekend so will probably be in about three weeks time, not really sure it is what size i need but we can worry about that a bit closer to the time :)

Well I wasn't too happy about having the filter in the engine bay so I decided to move it down inside the bumper. But then of course the charge pipe from the turbo runs through the inner wing making it quite difficult.

Since I have a STI Type R without ABS I cut a hole in the body where the IC spray bottle was and I'm going to weld a new pipe from the intercooler.

A new 67mm hole for the intercooler pipe. I will make an 3" inch aluminium induction pipe which runs down to the inner wing

http://s443.photobucket.com/albums/q...Picture170.jpg

Will place the air filter here. My old AEM dryflow 5" tall filter with 4" inlet. Will swap it for a 8" tall one with 3" inlet.

http://s443.photobucket.com/albums/q...Picture175.jpg

Harvey: Do you have a silicone elbow/ dog leg which is 90 mm in one end and 70 mm in the other end? One that fits between the turbo inlet pipe and the MAF. Might need one later.

Aha!!

This is an idea (well similar anyway) I had the other day when I was looking at my set up and new set up, I was going to cut a hole in the same place as you have just done and use it as a cold air feed from the fog light cover to the filter above it

Yes I was thinking about that too :) Together with a heat shield it should also work okay. But I still prefer to have the filter in the inner wing. I guess it also depends on how you use your car. No doubt the filter is more sensitive for water and dirt inside the bumper but I rarely use the car in wet and dirty conditions.

And I have used a similar solution on one other car without problems.

Keep safe off shore Dunk. It can be a bit rough at this time of year.
If the filter is in the engine bay get plenty cold air to it by feeding air in under the headlight. Remove the bonnet rubber above the headlight section. Force air in to the inner wing via the wedge at the front or the foglight cover or put a scoop in to the inner wing on the plastic under tray behind the spotlight area and inside of the drivers front wheel. A brake scoop from one of the accessory shops so that the air flow hits the scoop and automatically goes in to the inner wing area. I have cut out a section of the inner wing in the engine bay to allow good air flow.
Photos to follow.
I am also considering a cold air divider as I have built in the past but on this occasion I am wondering if it is possible to make it in such a way that there is a positive pressure differential at the filter from the forced air picked up with the forward movement of the car. A small positive pressure differential will keep that area cool and also make life that little bit easier for the turbo.
I will look for a 70 x 90 dog leg but if I don't have one I can point you in the right direction. They usually need ordered in advance so allow two weeks but I will come back.
With inner wing filters I have never experienced any problem whatsoever with water and I don't think there will be any problems because the area behind the plastic wheel arch cover is relatively dry even in the heaviest of rain. I know of only one instance where there was a problem but that was because the guy drove through a flooded ford and I suspect the water level was above the bottom of the air filter.

Here is a simple cold air divider made from carbon fibre with heat mat applied to give it insulation properties. Along the top is a strip of door rubber to form a seal with the bonnet. It is not a good seal but good enough that during testing we had 15 - 17C in the cold area and 30-55 C in the engine bay.

http://i38.tinypic.com/11spno2.jpg
http://i37.tinypic.com/35c2a7d.jpg
http://i38.tinypic.com/jb5pif.jpg

Turbovin : Yes I have both 70 X 90 and 70 X 80 dogles in stock in both blue and red.
Let me know as and when.

Harvey: How much is one 70x90?

I have to think about it, was planning to get Simtek but I'm not sure if I will do that next season or not. In that case I could go for a 3" inch pipe with a 76-70mm reducer to the inlet pipe.

Harvey, I'll have an 80mm trumpet (no MAF) and 170mm K&N. PM me the price and payment details.

Anders

Induction kit on STi 3 Wagon. The turbo has been clocked to discharge facing the driver inner wing so there is no need for the 180 degree hot pipe. The downpipe is my own design 3" open neck with both narrow band Lambda sensor for the Simtek to run closed loop and a wide band for the LC-1.
The turbo is an 05-06 20G Hybrid previously producing 420 bhp but this car will be remapped again next week following some further developement work.

http://i38.tinypic.com/2wml5wg.jpg

http://i33.tinypic.com/o907yf.jpg

http://i36.tinypic.com/34yp6z6.jpg

http://i37.tinypic.com/5mmlhv.jpg

Anders : I will get back to you Friday PM.
Turbovin : You have PM.

Hi Anders,

You have PM. I have had problems with Scoobynet hence the delay.

PM received, I think the whole site went down. It's still really slow today :(

Parts paid for yesterday, parts arrived today :D

I'll post some pictures at the weekend when I dummy fit everything.

Decided to fit a Solaris too :norty:

Anders

What a brilliant thread, I've read thru the lot and seen all the pics and heard what every1 has been saying... ... ... ... ... I so want a front mount now, lol

Harvey I think you might be getting a shopping list from me very soon ;)
I also think I'm going for a very very long drive coz I'd rather have you do the work eventho I reckon I could do it myself... you just sound like such an experienced pro it'd be silly not to take advantage of your knowledge and skills.

I'd love to have my tubby tilted and clocked round like that...

If you get a list together we can look at it and give you an idea on costings. Best thing would be to drop the car off and pick it up two or three days later because there is nothing worse than trying to do everything in a single day and being caught out by the unexpected after 3 o'clock on the afternoon. This does not apply to fitting an intercooler or swapping gearboxes, fitting a clutch or ported or tubular headers which are easy one day jobs but when you start clocking turbos and doing the unexpected it is best to have time in hand.
We are on the mainline East Coast railway and an advance ticket to London is typically £50 or less and collecting and delivering you to the station is not a problem. Only two miles away if that.
Funnily enough I was in Letchworth on Wednesday and can tell you from Letchworth to Darlington is 205 miles and Stevenage obviously just a little bit more. So that gives you an idea of how far away we are. It is an easy run up the A1M depending on what time of day you travel and we are only a stones throw off the motorway and easy to find.

have seen harveys work first hand, and will recomend anyone that the 200+ mile trip is worth it!!

Had a go at dummy fitting today to see what's involved.

There's no room to fit it under the FMIC pipework:

http://www.billandelaine.co.uk/scoob...rcms/rcms1.jpg

Managed to fit this way using the 80mm silicon joiner supplied with Hybrid kit. I might leave the old Hybrid CAIK pipe in place to draw cold air in to the engine bay. May be I could fit another RCMS trumpet in the wing to catch more air?

http://www.billandelaine.co.uk/scoob...rcms/rcms2.jpg

The filter is fouling on the brake lines, not sure how safe this is?

http://www.billandelaine.co.uk/scoob...rcms/rcms3.jpg

The filter isn't quite flush with the bonnet and gets slightly compressed when the bonnet closes

http://www.billandelaine.co.uk/scoob...rcms/rcms4.jpg


So is this as good as I can get, or has anyone else got a better fit?

Anders

Hmmm Them's be's very good figure's for a 20G!, would be intresting to see what could be done with a 20% mix of methanol or E85? :cool: Bit of a long shot, Do you think 450 is achievable on a 20G or even a MD321H with this set up and some help from the correct fuel?

Have you noticed any improvement in spool/lag since you have done away with the stupid 180 degree pipe from the intercooler to the turbo? Any graphs showing your set up with custom up pipe and down pipe vs standard set up with 20G turbo

Is your 20G anyway modded to sit in this clocked position as opposed to OE position or is it all down to the downpipe??

my brains in active mod just now lol :norty:

PM if you prefer :)

Thanks Ian.
Anders : The job becomes easy with a Simtek or Solaris without the MAF.
In my experience the space in the inner wing is too small to take the big cone.
Also cold air will not be sucked in to the engine bay as you suggest unless you put a positive pressure feed in to the void created by the inner wing, the plastic splash tray and outer wing.
Bring your car to us and we will fit the system with your MAF in situ. We have done this on a number of occasions but I do not have photographs. Some of our customers may well be prepared to post photographs of their installation.
Dunk : I have several incarnations of the TD05-06 20G. The standard model typically produces 380 bhp and the HP model is typically 400-424 bhp subject to supporting mods and fuel. One guy claims 434 bhp on one of these turbos but I don't know what fuel he was running and as the same rolling road said I had 447 bhp or some similar figure only a few weeks ago when the car did exactly 420 bhp on a Dyno Dynamics rolling road the Thursday before and was still on the same tank of fuel etc. then I am sceptical of the 434 figure.
I think my WRX MY95 fitted with one of my own TD05-06 20G HP with loads of methanol or race fuel would get very close to 450 bhp if not actually exceed it and that might well be a bit of fun and experimentation over Christmas.
Unfortunately the nearest Dyno Dynamics is 170 miles round trip and the next 240 miles and then there is the RR road cost and possibly a mapping fee if any work is done on the rollers so it starts to become expensive but it would be fantastic if a 20G could do 450 bhp on Methanol. Hmm.................You have me thinking.....It could be fun. :)

i think its possible with the right additives i got 419.5bhp with 10%meth on ver 4 sti heads. chuck in 20% meth and some octane booster and that should do the trick. I think its that time you do that test Harvey :)

I too was thinking about going to front mount. Harvey my car ran 392 bhp at 1.3 bar on your 20g, which I thought was good. Should make more with more boost and bigger injectors.

So whats the differences between one of your 20Gs and one from the likes of Andy.F for example? Already have one that's just been rebuilt and am looking to get the maximum out of it and was wondering how you get these big figures from them is it down to the new down pipe/up pipe set up or is it the actual turbo, Also how does your new downpipe clocked position affect spool/lag any difference than the conventional set up?

Is the HP model any more laggy or responsive compared to your others?