if you are meaning the idle valve.. don't remove it.. more hassle than it is worth.. or at least get the car up and running and then remove it as a separate job..

To the right of my fuel pressure reg in this pic is what you are talking about?

http://jollygreenmonster.fotopic.net/p29681070.html

Simon

thats the kiddie :thumb:
Need coils, Simon, part ex 98 coil pack? ;)

might have a spare set.. will check at home tonight..

not going 2.33?

Update

Started to take the block apart tonight, up onto the stand and begin shearing knuckles :rolleyes:
clicky

Seemed to go well enough to begin with. Heads/cams etc came off without a hitch.
RH clicky
LH clicky
They look in good enough condition, and most importantly, they seem to be genuine, real MCoy type RA heads.
I am led to believe that version 1 sti heads aren't great, but these have the underbucket shims and so Im hopeful they are sound enough to have ported/polished.
clicky
clicky

The problems started when the lack of tools became apparant :rolleyes: :lol1:
whoever in the real world keeps 14mm 1/2" drive hex sockets?!
The other fooker was the caps on the flywheel side that cover the gudgeon pins, massively torqued up shallow phillips head bolts.
The plastic offside cap isnt so tricky, but the metal nearside cap is stuck fast.
Gonna try to get an old fashioned impact driver tomorrow from my local Halfrauds™
I will look into seeing whether a reprofile on the cams is worth it, while the block is being relinered, cost/gain graph will be gainfully employed very soon!

what next?
Well, Ive yet to get the block apart and the crank/rods out. So I need to get the 14mm hex and impact driver tomorrow (theres a pretty tidy factors near work ;) ) reminder, also need very long nosed pliers for circlips.
Im confident enough about getting the bits out once the block is completely split, then its off to Steve @ SMG.
I was hoping to have this lot away by the weekend, but the IOW festival is this weekend. Looking likely to be a tuesday courier.

Simon, still taking advice and researching the final displacement.

Whilst your at halfords, get the 12 point 14mm socket, i would also suggest you get their impact driver (i have used it countless times), i would also suggest you but the 3/8ths 12 point socket rail (8mm ~ 22mm) as you will need these for the rods.

14mm allen key socket to do the gudeon pin blanks on the front.

nice work!

Also need a 1/2inch size 1/2inch drive 12point socket to do up the ARP stud nuts mate!

Simon

not me sir ;)
Engine builder will cover that I would have thought/hoped?

best of luck :thumb: can't be arsed to do anything to mine atm, rather be sat in the garden doing fack all :D

oh.. thought you were doing that bit too.. doh.. :)

Good luck with the build!

It's amazing how many new tools you aquire during these projects :D You'll need a bigger shadow board...

F

Hoping perhaps the ride out in the "Jolly Loud Green Monster" might be some motivation to you, you lazy ass :) :D :p :)

Simon

yeah it was Simon, cos I know I can get the RA "kickin yo ass"

;) very nice setup btw, the screamer pipe does just that!

did some tweaking on the way home and added 4degrees and took a bit of fuel out.. managed to kick and RS6's ass!

by the time you have built that RA I'll be on a new engine and bigger turbo ;)

but first I need a stronger gearbox and more BOOST!

Simon

Come on Andy pull your finger out m8 ;) :D I could of done that RA myself at this rate lol :D

pmsl, quality takes time Conrad, you know that ;)

efforts have been directed at selling my green car.

however, I have ordered the pistons, rods, crank, bearings and gaskets.
I have already got the headstuds (14/12 ARP), got the (RCMS type) oil pump.
Got the builder booked, very excited about that :thumb:

finger ready for extraction ;)

lol, I bet you wish you'd purchased my engine now :p lol

Nice & gently m8, dont over exert yourself now :)

Keep us updated :)

Andy best motivation is what I've just done, set yourself an install date, then try and get it done before then. My original plan was end of april, then may, then june and just kept on blaming work, then one day at work I said sod it and booked a week of to build and install, its now built and ready to go in next week, a week earlier than finally planned, its amazing what you do when you give yourself a penned in deadline instead of a floating one in your head.

pretty similar to what I did..

set my deadline as I was driving to SSO with the new engine installed therefore two weeks before the engine has to come out.. so I best build the engine up for then etc.. harder when you are waiting on parts to arrive and other peoples busy schedule though.

Simon

You neeeeeeeed nitrous too :D

its the chilli sauce on the kebab that is ;)

Managed to spend some quality time with the RA, I have to admit to spending my time trying to sell the green car. Looking good for a buyer now, so its all systems go on the build.

Here’s a shot of the lifter/bucket, Im no expert, but Im hoping (and it looks like) this s the fabled “underbucket” shim system.
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b4...erbucket-1.jpg

Heres my Trunk-Monkey™ helping out with the strip, He claims he did the final split but I reckon that I loosened it for him, git ;)
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b4...onkeycrank.jpg

Heres the block “post split”, I didn’t use the hammer to split it, I used the wooden end to push the pistons out.
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b4...ts99/split.jpg

Thanks to Steven and Paul for help with how to do the split, only removing one set of gudgeon pins/pistons made it easier as access to the pins can be a booger with the rod configuration…

Heres the manifold I plan to use, Im assuming here it’s a straight phase 1 version, as there are no coil pack mounting bolts/bracket. Phase 1 coilpacks means that I reckon its going to be relatively easy to fit the MSD.
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b4...9/manifold.jpg

And heres the brakes salvaged from the green car, would be a shame to not use them on the RA. Steps are in place to beef up the rear braking, although Im not sure if I will need to have a handle on the brake bias by upgrading the rears?
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b4...s99/brakes.jpg

More to come, but might be quiet until I get the heads back from SMG for porting, and the block from relinering.
Andy

I had all the parts for mine and still put it off foe months!!
I finally had to finish and fit it as the guy who's car I'd borrowed wanted it back :mad: inconsiderate........!

Nice brakes...
Graham

From the picture I am not sure they are under bucket Andy.. you got a close up picture? nice to see progress!

no picture Simon as Im at w**k.
basically, theres a small metal shim that sits between the bucket and the lifter, when I stripped back a set of 96wrx heads there were no shims at all.

On the pic above, the little metal bit seen inside the bucket comes away, its only held there by a small residue of oil, its a small (3mm/4mm deep?) disc that has a section hollowed out inside it, this hollow section sits on the lifter and then the bucket sits on that, thats why I thought "under bucket"??

cannot make it out in the picture.. need a bigger monitor :)

Sounds good.. I know the STi3 doesn't have a hollowed out section in the shim though.. which is what I think you are saying.. would make them a bitch to make?

Simon

in laymans terms...

a donut with a solid back??

They are underbucket

and......... thats the good ones right?

while the heads are off is it cost effective to be playing with the cam profiles?
or will they suffie for my 450 target?