sweet

that is one long straight inlet

Eeeek ! May be a bit late with this, but I had to run my pipe in to the turbo at a slight angle in order to clear the side of the manifold. Although my pipe increases to 3" bore at an 8 degree divergence from the inlet so you may have more room than I had ?

Andy

divergance??? speak english man.. A mate welded it with a TIG in his work. The inlet is only long, until I cut it. I think Im just gonna buy one of the MRT induction pipes. I just got one from Macspower for a friend, and altho it is pricey, looks very good. No kinks etc, just a good smooth pipe, coming right thru and around the inlet, and ready for my AFM to slap onto the end of it. I lifted my manifold by 20mm using nylon, hopefully it will be enough. Either way, it's still only a silicone pipe, so im sure I can get it to squeeze in somehow.
I think straight should be OK, as it shouldnt be any different to the std TD04 inlet position. Mine is at a slight angle, but very slight.
Didnt do an internal pic coz its just a straight pipe really.

This is a mod with huge potential, and since the search is still disabled for some reason, I wanted to get as much info as possible from those who have done this intake mod, or who have ideas that are relevant. Questions I have include, but are not limited to:

What custom work and fabrication is involved? What did it cost? Any problems yet? How long have you been running the car with the straight inlet? What kind of performance difference did it make? Are there any other similar mods that ought to be done at the same time (uppipe, etc)? How would a TD05 based upgrade perform with the 90 degree elbow eliminated?

To put my question into context, I have a borderline highly modified '94 WRX, that is putting out 235.7 hp atw, and 226.6 ft-lbs atw, although I've upgraded the stock TMIC to an MRT w/waterspray since my dyno session. Other mods include: Apex'i Power FC standalone ecu, AVC-R, 3" turbo back, Supra TT fuel pump, ported turbo, lightweight fw, act clutch, etc. Full list is here: http://www.subarureview.com/bio.php?name=annointed

I have full boost (1.1 bar) by 3250 RPM on this set-up.

Thanks for your insight!

Mark


[Edited by annointed - 7/8/2002 3:52:29 AM]

I think that the safest and easiest route is to bond in a decent strength aluminium alloy tube. I know Pat does a screw in type of mod, but unless you know how to do decent screw cutting on a lathe, and you can get/grind a decent tool, screw cutting is a beatch.

I can't be sure as I don't know the dimensions, but if there's enough material for a threadm there's enough for a simple sleeve. Boring a accurate hole for an accurate tube is easy.

Making the tube stay put could be done either by:

With a shrink fit - heat the housing, freeze the tube, then put together and let it cool. Don't know if it might get a little loose when hot, or stress the housing.

OR

Bond in tube with loctite 648 high strength retainer, and retain it does. Machine parts with a 0.05mm (ish) clearance to make sure the adhesive can flow all around the joint.

I am quite keen to have a go at this now.

Paul



[Edited by Pavlo - 7/8/2002 8:40:40 PM]

Stevie,

Have you got this up and running yet?

Tony.

Cough... should anybody want one of these, I may be able to arrange for a second hand one to be available.. nudge wink... (help finance the welder!)

David

This ones sat about for a while.. I havent done anything more yet, as I am driving the car everyday, and if I start something, it will undoubtedly go wrong and leave me with no transport.
I have asked Scoobymania to get me a MRT induction pipe, and it should be here in about 3 weeks. I should have my other car on the road by then OK, so can look into fitting the straight entry, as I dont have to rush it to get it done. I will also fit my new coils at the same time, if I havent done it beforehand.

David, we can have a chat about it when i come up for the ECU (not too loud tho 'cos the the other halfs coming with me and we don't want her to here how much it costs do we ;) :D ).

Tony.

Its OK, its a 9" grinder, so it wont do it any harm. Should I use a grinding disc, or cutting disc???
By the way, for those who like their angle grinders, stainlesss steel cutting discs are very good for cutting all metals ( obviously including stainless steel ). They are just basically thinner than normal cutting discs. ie, the disc is for cutting stainless steel, not actually made of stainless steel.

[Edited by ustolemyname??stevieturbo - 7/10/2002 12:58:14 PM]

Any update on this?