Pavlo

Without finding the threads involved Andy Forrest (Cossie Convert) has done this, as I am sure you know. He did take some good photos of all the bits used. He did cheat a little in removing the power steering altogether.

but check out this: http://www.scoobynet.co.uk/bbs/threa...hreadid=111120

Steve is doing the same thing.

The professional mod to the TD05 is to cut off the elbox, and thread the compressor housing to take an adapter. I suppose you could weld it, but I would be worried about distortion unless you take to a professional welder that understands the problem.

Andy just hacksawed the bend off, and located a tapered stainless tube with screws into the compressor inlet.

I think that fusion welding might be a good approach as it is a relatively low temp process.

Other than that, raise the inlet with spacers, get a new style ps pump resvoir, or locate it remotely on hoses, get some pipeage for the new maf location.

Paul

David_Wallis

is there not a housing you could just replace it with... as I am sure I have seen td05's with straight entry???

David

Pavlo

Agreed, sure Evos use a straight entry version.

Maybe economic to buy one from an evo breakers, or second hand private sale, and sell your right angle TD05.

Paul

David_Wallis

I was thinking more of just buying the housing.. They cant be that expensive???

David

Pavlo

Probably not, but any skilled turner should be able to do something quite easily. The hardest bit would be getting the housing onto the chuck properly, and getting the thing clocked in, all without damaging it.

Actually boring it out and cutting a thread is quite easy once set up. I think an easier route though, maybe to turn a plain bore and bond in a adapter with a suitable adhesive. Some of the loctite stuff should be fine, even at the temperatures highish temps involved.

Anyone got a muller'd housing I can have a go at modding?

Paul

ustolemyname??stevieturbo

iTrader: (1)

The housing could be expensive. I am trying to source a second hand one, of a scrap turbocharger from and Evo. I think they all use TD05's but am not certain. A local breakers yard is getting me one, from some rally dude. As for welding to the housing. A simple tack weld to hold it on would be sufficient, and sealing around the gaps with a suitable sealant. Its only to hold a bit of pipe on after all. Altho expensive, I like the look of the MRT/ ( maybe BPM also ) induction pipe. Looks much better than the samco item. For those intereste in space etc, take a look at my lates MY Piccys post, or you will find more pics on the ftp site. ftp://tsftp:tspass@turbosport.co.uk/ It let me upload them to it, so I just did... also added in a few more video clips

David_Wallis

mounting the housing in the lathe on a four jaw chuck or on a faceplate would be easy... I also dont believe there would be a problem with the welding... the could be a chance of distortion(sp) if you tried to weld it all in one go... If anybody wants the front of one turning out and are local I dont mind having a go at doing it... Havent made my mind up whether to do mine yet...

Would like to see some comparisons without other mods...

David

Big Bear

I have a front entry TD05 . I bought it from Pat , he sometimes post on this BBS but if you want more info go to the 22b BBS . Where the mod was done I can't remember .

Pavlo

Trouble with welding is heat build up. Welding in sequence so you don't heat up any one part too much should be okay. MIG welding might be better, as the high energy levels allow for minimum heat affected area etc.

I haven't seen a housing on it's own, but I image that you would have to put it in the lathe compressor side out, so you have a decent ref diameter to clock it in against.

As it's a casting it should machine no problem, about 10'-20' rake should do it (use as high as 40' for he30 or other non chipping alloys). And use parrafin as a lubricant as you machine (or a good water based solution).

Paul

Pete Croney

The shape and fit of this entry pipe makes a massive difference to the entry speed and stability of the air entering the turbo.

If its not the correct shape and perfectly smooth, the mod could be a big backwards step.

It all goes back to the work done years ago with carb trumpets and the same priciples apply.

Pavlo

Pete, turbo entry with a full return radius?

Joking aside, I assume the best conditions are a perfectly straight, parallel and round bore just before the compressor wheel. No hollow, lips etc, surface finished not that important. As the entry flange ends, I would have thought best to leave it as it was from the factory.

It's somewhat easier for me as I have a VF12 with a bolt on entry flange. Can someone please tell me what this turbo is good for boost wise at 6000+ rpm? Is it worth me trying to modify it at all?

Paul

David_Wallis

hmm... not so sure about the mig, as it seems to need lots of current... Would prefer tig.. And almost spot welding it in .. or sealant like above...

Im still not too convinced about this mod.. Yet...

David

Mo

I am in no way knocking this mod as I intend to try it, in time.

Andy states that he now gets full boost below 3000rpm but IIRC he changed to straight entry at the same time as fitting the ScoobySport uppipe. So we cannot tell what differences this modification has made alone.

I should be getting the uppipe changed sometime over the next two weeks so I should be able to see what difference this makes before embarking on the front entry mod.

For reference I only see 1bar at 3000rpm and do not see full boost until circa 3500rpm.

Pavlo

David,

Mig should be okay if you are pretty handm with it. Because it uses high current it's relatively fast, for very thick sections it's a better process then TIG. TIG is more controllable, and going slower means you can take more care, but you will end up with more heat going in to it.

It might be a good idea to preheat the houseing to about 150+ degs before welding.

Paul

David_Wallis

I know what your saying but welding alu. including cast alu. is fcking awkward with a mig..

David

David_Wallis

We have all the thread cutting ****e for our lathe so would be a piece of ****... especially as my dad is actually a F*&ing good engineer... (does HV electrical distribution design consultancy though...)

Tempted to try this but theres no way back if it goes **** up..

When raising the manifold up is there any problem with the injector spray pattern? as it looks to be matched to the head...

David

Pavlo

David,

If your dad can use the thread cutting setup on your lathe that's good. Some lathes make it easier than others, sometimes people lose the gearsets etc. The first time I had a go, I practiced on a number of things first, I also practiced grinding the cutting tool too, but you might have a tool with inserts, which saves hassle).

I beleive the mod that Pat does allows you to screw a FIA restrictor straight into the compressor housing, if so the 'best' route would be to use the same diameter and thread. Modified TD05s are quite sought after I beleive, so potentially high resale values etc. Using a threaded adaptor possible means you don't have to bore so far into the housing, so it could well be safer than a sleeved adaptor.

If you are worried about screwing it up (pardon the pun) then you might be able to get just the housing or a dead turbo to work on, if you do a good job, do the other one and flog the housing.

Paul

David_Wallis

thats what I thought about it... only thing is its not set up for metric threading... all the gears are mounted on the wall above the lathe.. and the threading chart is screwed to the wall we have all the things for measuring pitch etc.. Will have to have a look out for the housing... however if doing that it would be easier to get a straight entry td05 housing in the first place...

David

Pavlo

If you are going to make both parts, metric isn't an issue.

In fact unless you can't get hold of a restrictor, or it's spec, you may as well do it all yourself. Nothing to stop someone making an FIA spec restrictor to go in your hole (ooh er).

Paul

David_Wallis

ustolemyname??stevieturbo

iTrader: (1)

Ive got a tube of chemical metal, and a big tube of silicone..Im nearly there...Im bound to be able to make something with them. Straight entry, and a silicone inlet pipe?? Phone Blue Peter. maybe they could help.
Im also very handy with an angle grinder. Doesnt cut back blades on the turbo help too

Andy.F

Stevie, Pleeeeeze tell me your not cutting back blades with an angle grinder

Pavlo

Why not, works a treat. Best to use a diamond tipped blade, suitable for ceramic tiles. I balanced mine by drilling holes in the blades, only I went to far, so I had to fill one with some araldite.

Strong as ox(o cube)

Paul

Andy.F

Thought a stihl saw would give the required finesse

David_Wallis

he he... ive got a stihl saw.... great for removing doors of cars when they are in the way in scrap yards... also removed the parts i needed to fix my car with one... also used a big chisel!

got to be my favourite tool

David

David_Wallis

ttt as I dont think this discussion is done..

Andy.F

I'm expecting a TD05 through the post any day now. Plan is to modify to front entry, fettle some of the internals to improve flow and fit an alloy adaptor to the inlet to give it the same external dimensions as a VF23.......Then look for someone to do a back to back comparison

Andy

ustolemyname??stevieturbo

iTrader: (1)

Couldnt find an evo turbo front cover, so F**K it, lets cut up the subaru one. I need a couple of PAS pipes, and a good inlet pipe, then I'll be one step closer.
I just wacked it off with a saw, then got a bit of 2 1/4" tube welded on, then cleaned up any lips inside with a burr.. I'll shorten it when I see what inlet pipe im using thru the manifold

AndrewC

Looking good, any chance of an 'internal' shot?

Andrew...

David_Wallis

nice.... who welded that up, you???

Looks nice..

David