Service interval Mk2 Golf Gti?
#1
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Service interval Mk2 Golf Gti?
As per title?
Picking an 8v up tomorrow.
I take it these are good for large mileage?
My new throw around toy has 150k in it and was last serviced at 145k.
Anything particular to look for other than the usual stuff?
Ta
Picking an 8v up tomorrow.
I take it these are good for large mileage?
My new throw around toy has 150k in it and was last serviced at 145k.
Anything particular to look for other than the usual stuff?
Ta
#2
I did mine every five but I think they will put up with a lot longer.
Just use Catrol GTX, they dont need thin or synth oil, in fact the tappets get noisy if you do as it drains out to easily from them.
Otherwise, a doddle to look after.
Just check it doesnt smoke, they should still feel fairly quick, if its flat then dont bother, I have had six and driven loads more, some say the mechancal injected ones were better but I prefer the later Digifant electronic injection ones, it seems more reliable the mech ones tend to wander off tune with age.
Avoid the 5 door, they get very wobbly with age, very noticeable when jacking them up, my five door was very floppy, they arent the stiffest shell to begin with.
Watch out for wet carpets, they all do it, five doors are worse due to more window seals to go wrong, its difficult to sort out.
Wach for rust under the plastics, my last one looked mint but was quietly disentegrating behind there.
Early ones were better built, A to D reg seem to resist the rust better, I think VW started t skimp when they relaised they could sell as many as they made.
Avoid anything tht has been lowered to much, new standard or sligh uprate is ok but if its scapring its **** on the road it will be horrible to drive and slower point to point, they handle really well as standard and can be improved but what a 19 year old Maxer does is not usually an improvement, I had one with a 60 mm drop and it was horrid, 20mm on coil overs with Eibachs and poly bushes is the way to go for the ultimate handling Mk2
Good choice on getting an 8v, sure the valver is quicker but the 8 valver is much nicer to drive, most of the time.
Parts are very cheap from German, Swedish and French, Eurocarparts etc.
Enjoy !
Just use Catrol GTX, they dont need thin or synth oil, in fact the tappets get noisy if you do as it drains out to easily from them.
Otherwise, a doddle to look after.
Just check it doesnt smoke, they should still feel fairly quick, if its flat then dont bother, I have had six and driven loads more, some say the mechancal injected ones were better but I prefer the later Digifant electronic injection ones, it seems more reliable the mech ones tend to wander off tune with age.
Avoid the 5 door, they get very wobbly with age, very noticeable when jacking them up, my five door was very floppy, they arent the stiffest shell to begin with.
Watch out for wet carpets, they all do it, five doors are worse due to more window seals to go wrong, its difficult to sort out.
Wach for rust under the plastics, my last one looked mint but was quietly disentegrating behind there.
Early ones were better built, A to D reg seem to resist the rust better, I think VW started t skimp when they relaised they could sell as many as they made.
Avoid anything tht has been lowered to much, new standard or sligh uprate is ok but if its scapring its **** on the road it will be horrible to drive and slower point to point, they handle really well as standard and can be improved but what a 19 year old Maxer does is not usually an improvement, I had one with a 60 mm drop and it was horrid, 20mm on coil overs with Eibachs and poly bushes is the way to go for the ultimate handling Mk2
Good choice on getting an 8v, sure the valver is quicker but the 8 valver is much nicer to drive, most of the time.
Parts are very cheap from German, Swedish and French, Eurocarparts etc.
Enjoy !
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Cheers fellas.
It's 1990 5 door. Had lots of cash spent on it and apparently still pulls well.
Frankly, for the money I'm paying for it, I can't really be going over it with a harsh eye .
Cheaper than chips. I'm paying around half the amount of its last major service
It's 1990 5 door. Had lots of cash spent on it and apparently still pulls well.
Frankly, for the money I'm paying for it, I can't really be going over it with a harsh eye .
Cheaper than chips. I'm paying around half the amount of its last major service
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usual every 10K or once yearly , (whichever comes first) the old Mk2 golfs are a hoot. Jacko has it pretty much spot on and as said the Valvers are more rapid at top end, but the 8's are much more 'torquey' lower in the rev range just dont go spoiling it with massive alloys and lowering springs/coilovers, and youll love it
.
.
#7
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Check the idle stab valve too. They can get very dirty and cause idling problems. They can be cleaned with white spirit and then flushed with some petrol.
Rear axle bushes can go too. A real pain to change.
The fan can be f**ked but still look like it is operating but you can stop it with a stick.
Rear axle bushes can go too. A real pain to change.
The fan can be f**ked but still look like it is operating but you can stop it with a stick.
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Great cars and don't believe the utter bollocks about the 8v's being quicker low down the rev-range...the valver is just as quick low down and blows the 8v away higher up the range.
#9
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Personaly I also prefer the 8v.
They also have an auto ajusting clutch cables on them - which are rubbish.
One of the very few poor origional parts. If it hasnt been done already worth putting on a standard cable (get down German swedish ).
I restored one to mint condition about 2 years ago. Everything still worked on it - even the trip computer thingy. Astounding build quality and a great drive -Its a shame the Germans still dont knock out cars of that quality.
Steve
They also have an auto ajusting clutch cables on them - which are rubbish.
One of the very few poor origional parts. If it hasnt been done already worth putting on a standard cable (get down German swedish ).
I restored one to mint condition about 2 years ago. Everything still worked on it - even the trip computer thingy. Astounding build quality and a great drive -Its a shame the Germans still dont knock out cars of that quality.
Steve
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*then again.. the ECU 'has' been changed ...
Last edited by hectic; 10 March 2007 at 05:15 PM.
#11
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Personaly I also prefer the 8v.
They also have an auto ajusting clutch cables on them - which are rubbish.
One of the very few poor origional parts. If it hasnt been done already worth putting on a standard cable (get down German swedish ).
I restored one to mint condition about 2 years ago. Everything still worked on it - even the trip computer thingy. Astounding build quality and a great drive -Its a shame the Germans still dont knock out cars of that quality.
Steve
They also have an auto ajusting clutch cables on them - which are rubbish.
One of the very few poor origional parts. If it hasnt been done already worth putting on a standard cable (get down German swedish ).
I restored one to mint condition about 2 years ago. Everything still worked on it - even the trip computer thingy. Astounding build quality and a great drive -Its a shame the Germans still dont knock out cars of that quality.
Steve
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Lots of 8v owners try to perpetuate the myth that there car is faster than the 16v at lower revs.
It's a fact however that they aren't. At no point do 8vs produce more torque, and at no point do they accelerate faster.
It's a fact however that they aren't. At no point do 8vs produce more torque, and at no point do they accelerate faster.
#13
Moose, have had both, the 8 valve has instant get up and go, the 16 valce has to be wound up, I went from an 8 to a 16 expecting i to be twice as good, it wasnt, as for being an 8 valve owner perpetuating anything, have had both and prefered the 8 valve though sometimes you do miss that top end rush for the redline but not as often as you miss the low down gutsy pull of an 8 valve.
Best I had was an overbored MK1, 1.9, about 145 bhp, that was a very satisfying drive.
Best I had was an overbored MK1, 1.9, about 145 bhp, that was a very satisfying drive.
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Picked it up and was embarrassed by handing over the money due it being in such good condition. The old boy I bought it from had gven it a good t-cut and polish, and had given it a valet.
Almost like new inside, virtually no rust, almost FSH, new tyres and a £100 CD player fitted.
Still tight to drive, pulls really well from low down and averaged an indicated 41.7mpg on the 110 mile drive home - mainly motorway at healthy speeds.
It's even got an aftermarket alarm/immobiliser.
I felt guilty driving off - for about 5 seconds
£200 well spent
Almost like new inside, virtually no rust, almost FSH, new tyres and a £100 CD player fitted.
Still tight to drive, pulls really well from low down and averaged an indicated 41.7mpg on the 110 mile drive home - mainly motorway at healthy speeds.
It's even got an aftermarket alarm/immobiliser.
I felt guilty driving off - for about 5 seconds
£200 well spent
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