Converting From LRP To Unleaded
#1
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Converting From LRP To Unleaded
Hi All,
I have just purchased a G-reg ('89) Rover 216 as a runabout, but it still uses 4* (LRP) petrol. There don't seem to be many garages locally still doing LRP, so I was wondering whether getting the car converted to unleaded is an option. What are the sort of costs involved? Is it worth doing? Can I just add an additive into unleaded petrol to make it like 'LRP'? (Sorry for my ignorance, but I don't know all that much about the differences between unleaded and LRP - except the lead!)
Thanks for your help...
Daniel
I have just purchased a G-reg ('89) Rover 216 as a runabout, but it still uses 4* (LRP) petrol. There don't seem to be many garages locally still doing LRP, so I was wondering whether getting the car converted to unleaded is an option. What are the sort of costs involved? Is it worth doing? Can I just add an additive into unleaded petrol to make it like 'LRP'? (Sorry for my ignorance, but I don't know all that much about the differences between unleaded and LRP - except the lead!)
Thanks for your help...
Daniel
#2
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Take a trip to your locat Rover dealer, much as that may hurt ask the guy in the servixce dept if it'll run on unleaded, they should be able to tell!!
Alternatively, just put it in and see, it should take a long time to destroy the engine even if it's not designed to use it!!
Or,, yes you can get additives!
Alternatively, just put it in and see, it should take a long time to destroy the engine even if it's not designed to use it!!
Or,, yes you can get additives!
#3
I would not worry at all. Simply put U/L in...... if the higher rating U/Ls are available, fill up with that when you can.
If your 1.6 engine is the S series, those cars made at that G reg. time were engineered to take advantage of lower grade fuels then available in export markets anyway. Indeed your car may be designed for U/L anyway. Your engine number may provide a clue here. However, with the better throttle response, performance and economy provided by 4* generally available ten years ago, not unnaturally most manufacturers took advantage of it and used it......
It was about that time ( G reg.) that most new Rovers, Austins and MGs switched over to U/L. This was acheived by engine management. If your car was orinally designed for 4*, have a look around local breakers for similar cars with the green U/L labels on the bonnet slam panel. Then, remove the management ECU. If you're really pedantic and plan to keep the car for some time, get the cylinder head too - you'll know for certain that it will be suitable for U/L.
In your position, I'd do nothing except put in U/L and the 'super' U/L fuels when you see it available come fill up time..... If any harm to the engine results (valve seat recession) it will be many 1000s of miles before you notice any deterioration of engine performance.
If your 1.6 engine is the S series, those cars made at that G reg. time were engineered to take advantage of lower grade fuels then available in export markets anyway. Indeed your car may be designed for U/L anyway. Your engine number may provide a clue here. However, with the better throttle response, performance and economy provided by 4* generally available ten years ago, not unnaturally most manufacturers took advantage of it and used it......
It was about that time ( G reg.) that most new Rovers, Austins and MGs switched over to U/L. This was acheived by engine management. If your car was orinally designed for 4*, have a look around local breakers for similar cars with the green U/L labels on the bonnet slam panel. Then, remove the management ECU. If you're really pedantic and plan to keep the car for some time, get the cylinder head too - you'll know for certain that it will be suitable for U/L.
In your position, I'd do nothing except put in U/L and the 'super' U/L fuels when you see it available come fill up time..... If any harm to the engine results (valve seat recession) it will be many 1000s of miles before you notice any deterioration of engine performance.
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