MKII Golf GTi buying advice...
#1
the 16V rocks
but especially for you Impreza guys and girls... G60 serious kit
(a long term VW owner thinking of changing)
(oops EDIT mispelt Impreza)
[Edited by peelo - 10/7/2002 11:58:19 PM]
but especially for you Impreza guys and girls... G60 serious kit
(a long term VW owner thinking of changing)
(oops EDIT mispelt Impreza)
[Edited by peelo - 10/7/2002 11:58:19 PM]
#3
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Look for a paper sticker in the boot which has date of build etc on it, this also indicates it's not had a rear ender!
Don't buy the 16v model as it's slower 0-60 than the 8v. The 16v has a better top end but most prefer the 8v.......
Probably won't has PAS and they are v.heavy. Cam belt's are at 90,000 so check it's been done.
Look for FSH as it desirable on these and will make re-sale easy. Try to get onne with a sunroof as there is no air-con!
We recently bought a G reg and the thing that sold it too us was the history, the exterior will probably be a bit tatty.
Enjoy.
Tim
Don't buy the 16v model as it's slower 0-60 than the 8v. The 16v has a better top end but most prefer the 8v.......
Probably won't has PAS and they are v.heavy. Cam belt's are at 90,000 so check it's been done.
Look for FSH as it desirable on these and will make re-sale easy. Try to get onne with a sunroof as there is no air-con!
We recently bought a G reg and the thing that sold it too us was the history, the exterior will probably be a bit tatty.
Enjoy.
Tim
#4
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Olly (sometime of this bbs) has got a mint F plate 8V that he is selling, he posted it on here a while ago, I will try and resurrect the thread. He is on holiday till Wednesday but if you are interested, mail me and I will send you his addy.
#5
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Tim..16v slower to 60 than a 8v,where did you get that from?????
16v 0-60 7.9 secs....8v 0-60 8.7sec on a good day
And ALL mk2 gti's come with a sunroof and PAS on late cars 90 on...
16v 0-60 7.9 secs....8v 0-60 8.7sec on a good day
And ALL mk2 gti's come with a sunroof and PAS on late cars 90 on...
#6
On holiday, but still 'ere. Havin a brandy in the lobby before we go out on the razz. Its 29 degrees.
Chech around rear tailgate and back quarter seems for rust. Have a look at chassis plate, it is on LHS of engine bay and be upside down. If it ain't, walk away. Back calipers sieze: check rear discs for rusting and poor handbrake. Otherwise do the usual stuff: very little to look for, don't be frightened of miles, but look for history.
8v's were slower ON PAPER, but mainly FELT faster due to bags of low down torque and driveability. Give me the 8v any day of the week for this reason. And most other Golf enthusiasts.
Mine ain't really for sale, its just that everything I own is for sale, if you know what I mean. Its a totally original low mileage mint box and I am reluctant to sell, so have tucked it away for a rainy day. However...
Chech around rear tailgate and back quarter seems for rust. Have a look at chassis plate, it is on LHS of engine bay and be upside down. If it ain't, walk away. Back calipers sieze: check rear discs for rusting and poor handbrake. Otherwise do the usual stuff: very little to look for, don't be frightened of miles, but look for history.
8v's were slower ON PAPER, but mainly FELT faster due to bags of low down torque and driveability. Give me the 8v any day of the week for this reason. And most other Golf enthusiasts.
Mine ain't really for sale, its just that everything I own is for sale, if you know what I mean. Its a totally original low mileage mint box and I am reluctant to sell, so have tucked it away for a rainy day. However...
#7
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Im a 16v man,so i'll stick with the quicker car and you can watch my tail lights
Btw driven and owned MANY Gti's and the 16v is the ONLY car ive kept,so that says something for the good old valver.
Btw driven and owned MANY Gti's and the 16v is the ONLY car ive kept,so that says something for the good old valver.
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#8
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Oh well it felt quicker! I hated my 16v so each to their own eh.....
Good point on the reac calipers, forgot that. Genuine parts (ie calipers) cost a bomb but German and Swedish do em for £80 each I think.
Get an 8v!
Tim
Good point on the reac calipers, forgot that. Genuine parts (ie calipers) cost a bomb but German and Swedish do em for £80 each I think.
Get an 8v!
Tim
#9
Cheers for the advice
Had a look at it, it drove nicely and was an 8-valve. After years of not really giving Golf's a second glance I can now see the attraction to the old 8v. It had a nice torquey engine and an excellent engine note (helped by the twin scorpion system, and K&N). I walked away from that particular example as it had obviously just been boy-racered for the last few years but it has put me on to Golfs in general.
Olly, what's the spec on yours and how much are you after for it?
Cheers
Whip
Had a look at it, it drove nicely and was an 8-valve. After years of not really giving Golf's a second glance I can now see the attraction to the old 8v. It had a nice torquey engine and an excellent engine note (helped by the twin scorpion system, and K&N). I walked away from that particular example as it had obviously just been boy-racered for the last few years but it has put me on to Golfs in general.
Olly, what's the spec on yours and how much are you after for it?
Cheers
Whip
#10
Scooby Regular
Whip, I have just tried a search for Olly's original post but can't find it. I can't remember what he wanted for it but it is a mint 2 owner original 3 door 8V with teardrop alloys, @70k miles and FSH, it is metallic green (not oak).
#12
http://adserver.scoobynet.co.uk/banner.asp?UniqueAdID=1034095415090
Couple of pictures and spec on this thread, posted in January. Circumstances have changed, and I don't really need to sell it now, but would part with it if around GBP2200 was pressed into my paw. I have done around 15 miles in it since January, so miles still stand at 57K, not 70 as CrisPDuk states. You would have to look hard to find a better one.
Couple of pictures and spec on this thread, posted in January. Circumstances have changed, and I don't really need to sell it now, but would part with it if around GBP2200 was pressed into my paw. I have done around 15 miles in it since January, so miles still stand at 57K, not 70 as CrisPDuk states. You would have to look hard to find a better one.
#14
Scooby Regular
BTW Olly you sad ba***rd, what are doing playing on the internet when you should be on dem Cyprus beaches. Have you been chucked off again for being to f**king ugly
#15
Olly, the address you posted just links to an ad banner m8. I've tried to find the original thread without success.
2200 is a bit above what I was going to pay, although I'm sure it's a good price. I'd still be interested to see the photos and the spec though, even if it's just for comparison.
Cheers
Whip
2200 is a bit above what I was going to pay, although I'm sure it's a good price. I'd still be interested to see the photos and the spec though, even if it's just for comparison.
Cheers
Whip
#16
Do a search for Mint Golf GTi For Sale. On the dosy hotel computer, so not familiar how to drive the bugger too well.
CrisP: Just sheltering the sun mate. In Cyprus. Where its been 34 degrees today. On the beach, that is. With topless women. And cheap beer.
CrisP: Just sheltering the sun mate. In Cyprus. Where its been 34 degrees today. On the beach, that is. With topless women. And cheap beer.
#18
Scooby Regular
Whip, if you look in For Sale, there is a thread by Olly called Mint Mk2 Golf, I have just resurrected it but don't know how to post links.
#19
Here it is...
http://www.scoobynet.co.uk/bbs/threa...ThreadID=68813
Looks well tidy m8, a good example.
Whip
http://www.scoobynet.co.uk/bbs/threa...ThreadID=68813
Looks well tidy m8, a good example.
Whip
#21
I have a mint (ish) 88' 8 valve I won in the Daily Mirror back then, I was too young to drive it so I sold it to my dad who only did 70k in it and gave it to me !
Advice, check for rust underneath because contrary to folklore they do rust (earlier cars were more resistant though), also try and prise the arch covers back cos mine were pretty ropey behind there.
I have had both and didnt like the 16 valve, it wasnt any quicker most of the time and you had to be going ballistic to notice the difference.
Avoid anything that has been Max Powered cos they are never the same again, Check for wet carpets cos its a pig to sort out.
Dont buy a five door, even more leaky and the shell (at 14 years old) is about as stiff as a snotty hanky. And they look poo !
Interior parts are hard to get so if its a ruin inside forget it unless you are putting leather in or something.
Dont worry about the motor apart from checking the header tank for emulsion (head gasket) and ask if its had a cam belt. They tend to clatter when cold cos of the hydraulic tappets but if it doesnt go away you end up having to replace all of them cos you will never spot which one it is and it would be a bugger to put the head back and find its still doing it. Anyway they are cheap to buy second hand if its knackered. Better still put a 2.0 in it or better still a 1.8 t from a MK4 when all that power is wasted hauling its lardy **** around.
Go for it, I love mine and they seem to get a lot of looks nowadays if it looks right, e.g lowered 40mm (no more its screws the handling), nice wheels, oh and take all that 80's stylee red tape off the doors (takes a while).
Mine will keep up with a Scoob, well if the traffics heavy it will.....
Advice, check for rust underneath because contrary to folklore they do rust (earlier cars were more resistant though), also try and prise the arch covers back cos mine were pretty ropey behind there.
I have had both and didnt like the 16 valve, it wasnt any quicker most of the time and you had to be going ballistic to notice the difference.
Avoid anything that has been Max Powered cos they are never the same again, Check for wet carpets cos its a pig to sort out.
Dont buy a five door, even more leaky and the shell (at 14 years old) is about as stiff as a snotty hanky. And they look poo !
Interior parts are hard to get so if its a ruin inside forget it unless you are putting leather in or something.
Dont worry about the motor apart from checking the header tank for emulsion (head gasket) and ask if its had a cam belt. They tend to clatter when cold cos of the hydraulic tappets but if it doesnt go away you end up having to replace all of them cos you will never spot which one it is and it would be a bugger to put the head back and find its still doing it. Anyway they are cheap to buy second hand if its knackered. Better still put a 2.0 in it or better still a 1.8 t from a MK4 when all that power is wasted hauling its lardy **** around.
Go for it, I love mine and they seem to get a lot of looks nowadays if it looks right, e.g lowered 40mm (no more its screws the handling), nice wheels, oh and take all that 80's stylee red tape off the doors (takes a while).
Mine will keep up with a Scoob, well if the traffics heavy it will.....
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