Replacement Windows - uPVC or Timber?
Hi,
We are planning on replacing all our windows this year (approx 18 of them) and wondered what people preference was between uPVC and timber. Our house was built in 1917 and is in a rural setting (I'll try and post a pic soon) so my preference is with timber even though it's more expensive. Everest do some that have a 30 year guarantee against rot and fungus and don't need any painting for a few years, which suits me. I may be swayed towards the uPVC though as they do look quite nice and are about 25% cheaper and require no maintenance. I would be going with equal sight lines though as it just looks so much better to my eye.
Any comments?
We are planning on replacing all our windows this year (approx 18 of them) and wondered what people preference was between uPVC and timber. Our house was built in 1917 and is in a rural setting (I'll try and post a pic soon) so my preference is with timber even though it's more expensive. Everest do some that have a 30 year guarantee against rot and fungus and don't need any painting for a few years, which suits me. I may be swayed towards the uPVC though as they do look quite nice and are about 25% cheaper and require no maintenance. I would be going with equal sight lines though as it just looks so much better to my eye.
Any comments?
I'm in a similar position, I live in a 100 year old house and would like to maintain the period look. Although pvc is cheap, I think the hardwood style is more keeping with the tradition. Its not something you replace very often so don't skimp on them !
We were faced with a similar decision when we had an extension. Match existing hardwood or replace throughout with UPVC. We chose hardwood but now regret it. Maintenance is certainly a factor, also (and this will vary) the quality is not as good, some don't shut properly and some of the sealed units have failed.
I know all this is dependant on the particular manufacturer of both frame and unit, however it's just our own experience.
Allan
I know all this is dependant on the particular manufacturer of both frame and unit, however it's just our own experience.
Allan
Here's a old-ish pic of the back of our house, just to give you an idea of current style..

Some good points here. The reason I'm undecided is precisely down to the comments here.
Traditional look vs practicality and maintenance, with cost thrown in. Though we've been advised that there is now a "special offer" available from head office which will "slash the previous quote" we were given last week..

Some good points here. The reason I'm undecided is precisely down to the comments here.
Traditional look vs practicality and maintenance, with cost thrown in. Though we've been advised that there is now a "special offer" available from head office which will "slash the previous quote" we were given last week..
Get another company in as well, I fit the same kind of garage doors as Everest do, and I usually work out at approximately 1/3 their price, and i use a better product than they do.
If you go for Upvc, I believe the make 'Rehau' are a very good manufacturer of those kinds of door ...... BUT, I do not know much about windows, doors and conservatories, just thought you should ask some local 'reputable' companies advice.
If you go for Upvc, I believe the make 'Rehau' are a very good manufacturer of those kinds of door ...... BUT, I do not know much about windows, doors and conservatories, just thought you should ask some local 'reputable' companies advice.
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Put it this way.
I'm in the process of stripping and repainting 12 sodding timber windows and a timber conservatory myself - as firstly they need paint; and secondly every painter that touched a brush on them has bodged it (not properly rubbed down - like most alledged "professionals" do etc). I wouldn't mind so much if this was some 100 year old house; But its barely 20years old!
If I wasn't such a tight git I'd have the lot changed for uPVC. They are good quality frames, but the time needed to make right and keep them like that is quite serious - especially when no painters exist that are willing to do the job properly.
I'm in the process of stripping and repainting 12 sodding timber windows and a timber conservatory myself - as firstly they need paint; and secondly every painter that touched a brush on them has bodged it (not properly rubbed down - like most alledged "professionals" do etc). I wouldn't mind so much if this was some 100 year old house; But its barely 20years old!
If I wasn't such a tight git I'd have the lot changed for uPVC. They are good quality frames, but the time needed to make right and keep them like that is quite serious - especially when no painters exist that are willing to do the job properly.
Last edited by Shark Man; May 7, 2008 at 08:37 PM.
Get another company in as well, I fit the same kind of garage doors as Everest do, and I usually work out at approximately 1/3 their price, and i use a better product than they do.
If you go for Upvc, I believe the make 'Rehau' are a very good manufacturer of those kinds of door ...... BUT, I do not know much about windows, doors and conservatories, just thought you should ask some local 'reputable' companies advice.
If you go for Upvc, I believe the make 'Rehau' are a very good manufacturer of those kinds of door ...... BUT, I do not know much about windows, doors and conservatories, just thought you should ask some local 'reputable' companies advice.
I'm just starting a new build and am going with PVC in the Oak colour.
Timber windows need more maintenance than UPVC but will last a lot longer. We have UPVC and they need replacing, lots of seals gone etc.
Also if you have an old house check it is not in a conservation area, as if it is you will definitely need timber.
Also if you have an old house check it is not in a conservation area, as if it is you will definitely need timber.
I agree that timber looks a lot better, but the myth about them lasting longer is just that.
You will need to replace the gasket's after 20-30 years (Costs hardly anything if you do it your self), but other than that, the frames, and indeed glass, will be just as structurally integral as the day they were installed.
If they need removing and re-powder coating because they've not been looked after, then it will be cheaper to do than wooden one's that haven't.
Or they could be sprayed without removal.
As I said though, I prefer the look of wood.
You will need to replace the gasket's after 20-30 years (Costs hardly anything if you do it your self), but other than that, the frames, and indeed glass, will be just as structurally integral as the day they were installed.
If they need removing and re-powder coating because they've not been looked after, then it will be cheaper to do than wooden one's that haven't.

Or they could be sprayed without removal.
As I said though, I prefer the look of wood.
We have hard wood frames, I would change to brown PVC like a shot, timber takes so much caring for and the Upvc windows seal well and need little or no maintenance. As time goes on and I get older I find it more difficult to climb ladders and feel safe, so every few years I need to pay a decorator......
I agree that timber looks a lot better, but the myth about them lasting longer is just that.
You will need to replace the gasket's after 20-30 years (Costs hardly anything if you do it your self), but other than that, the frames, and indeed glass, will be just as structurally integral as the day they were installed.
If they need removing and re-powder coating because they've not been looked after, then it will be cheaper to do than wooden one's that haven't.
Or they could be sprayed without removal.
As I said though, I prefer the look of wood.
You will need to replace the gasket's after 20-30 years (Costs hardly anything if you do it your self), but other than that, the frames, and indeed glass, will be just as structurally integral as the day they were installed.
If they need removing and re-powder coating because they've not been looked after, then it will be cheaper to do than wooden one's that haven't.

Or they could be sprayed without removal.
As I said though, I prefer the look of wood.
- which id assume to be the most common problem
How much is this going to cost to put right ?
Moisture between the panes is the actual glazing unit at fault, not the type of window frame.
Its a quality issue that affects all types of double glazed frame; be it metal, pvc or wood. Glazing units can be easily replaced without needing to replace the frame
I've had plenty done; whole lot was affected by a bad batch of sealant.
Good glazing units should last at least over 10years before breaking down, and usually its the ones that get the morning sun that go first or are large area panes (casual observation).
Its a quality issue that affects all types of double glazed frame; be it metal, pvc or wood. Glazing units can be easily replaced without needing to replace the frame

I've had plenty done; whole lot was affected by a bad batch of sealant.
Good glazing units should last at least over 10years before breaking down, and usually its the ones that get the morning sun that go first or are large area panes (casual observation).
Last edited by Shark Man; May 8, 2008 at 09:16 PM.
As sharkman says, its the panes at fault. These can be repaired, or you can go to your local glass supplier and they will make you some replacements. (Which is what I'd do)
As for price, a patio door size unit should cost no more than £100. A smaller piece, about 700 x 700 will cost around £50. You can fit them yourself pretty easily. If you need help on how to strip them down, let me know.
As for price, a patio door size unit should cost no more than £100. A smaller piece, about 700 x 700 will cost around £50. You can fit them yourself pretty easily. If you need help on how to strip them down, let me know.
Don't be such a tart, and get on with it!

Ali and timber are the best.......more expensive but last longer and the glazing bars look much better because they're not as wide as the UPVC sh!te ones. I would rather stick pins in my eyes than have those. Mr OS's brother has had his own business doing glazing/mirrors etc. for years. They don't do UPVC any more, they just do repairs on them.
I've just re-painted some windows that were pre-finished (factory) and installed 7 years ago.
All of them were in excellent condition albeit a little dull, but absolutely zero rot or warping, even on the south facing ones.
These type of windows are usually finished with a Sikkens product which is probably the best on the market today.
Maintenance equates to a wipe over with some Meths, and then 1 coat of the appropriate Sikkens paint.
A bit like these.....
Pre Finished Windows - Factory Finished - Timber Windows - George Barnsdale & Sons
All of them were in excellent condition albeit a little dull, but absolutely zero rot or warping, even on the south facing ones.
These type of windows are usually finished with a Sikkens product which is probably the best on the market today.
Maintenance equates to a wipe over with some Meths, and then 1 coat of the appropriate Sikkens paint.
A bit like these.....
Pre Finished Windows - Factory Finished - Timber Windows - George Barnsdale & Sons
thats the key to timber windows get them painted from the factory and buy decent quality ones, they will look far superior last far better and they may need re-painting but not for 5-7 years then get a painter to do them properly and they will just last and last.




