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Old Mar 10, 2015 | 10:49 PM
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From: Rl'yeh
Default Tap connectors...how to?

Not having much fun with tap connectors, the ones that fasten onto a flat threaded pipe and have a washer in between.

How tight? Mine ALWAYS leak. I've had the same problem in France and with a shower pump here...I loathe the things.

Anything else on the joint? PTFE tape on the threads, sealing compound on the joint?

What the hell am I doing wrong?

Tomorrow I have to put in a new bath, the bath filler has threaded inlets for ordinary tap connectors, not tap tails etc, and, of course, the tap is in the rear corner, so once it's in, they will be inaccessible

Any tips gladly received.
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Old Mar 10, 2015 | 10:58 PM
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Can't imagine it

Iv just got flexible hoses on taps , done em up , and that's it
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Old Mar 10, 2015 | 11:12 PM
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As above, flexible connectors or push-fit, PTFE tape and nip them up.
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Old Mar 10, 2015 | 11:15 PM
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I didn't ptfe mine , they come with rubber washer
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Old Mar 10, 2015 | 11:17 PM
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I use PTFE tape on the tap thread if I'm using stainless flexis, just to be on the safe side and give a nice seal.
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Old Mar 11, 2015 | 12:50 AM
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Fibre washers are the work of the devil.

Once its swollen from sucking in water...bin it and use a dry one (dry the fitting as well ).
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Old Mar 11, 2015 | 11:03 AM
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From: Rl'yeh
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These are like this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Flexible-T...item2337ae4039
They have black rubber/neoprene washers supplied.

I've used them loads, but I NEVER seem to get a trouble free join.

The base of the tap is 3/4" BSP threaded like this: http://www.bristan.com/WebRoot/Brist...1044581-D1.GIF

So how do I attach the two, with no chance of a leak?
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Old Mar 11, 2015 | 12:49 PM
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Where are you getting a leak from? Where it connects to the tap thread or the compression end to your pipework? Are you adding washers or anything? Tightening by hand or with a spanner?


If they're decent quality there's not really much to them, just tighten (don't over/under tighten) and forget.
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Old Mar 13, 2015 | 08:52 AM
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Hand tight and a nip. that's it.
Don't use PTFE on the thread, that's not where the seal is.
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Old Mar 13, 2015 | 09:46 AM
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A little PTFE provides some grip and protection against minor deficiencies in the rubber washer, but isn't entirely necessary. Too much PTFE and you risk it not tightening up against the washed properly and causing leaks.

You can't really go wrong with these things though
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Old Mar 13, 2015 | 09:50 AM
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If you have the black rubber washers in any connection it is a good idea to put some spit on the washer/tap before assembly as if dry the washer can grip and deform as you tighten the connection if it rotates at all.
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Old Mar 13, 2015 | 11:11 AM
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From: Rl'yeh
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Well, they are on........ I used flexibles with push-fit 22mm fittings on the other end...I really like those and would use more. They connect onto 22mm copper pipe ends, cut with a pipe slice to ensure a good clean cut and a nice chamfer.

Because they were flexible it was possible to turn the water on, leave the bath pulled slightly away from the wall, and keep checking the dry-ness of the connections while I did something else...rebuilt the airing cupboard.
After 4 hours, no sign of a leak.

So it's in and fastened to the wall, levelled and braced, only the side panel to be done now.

I did the connections by hand tightening, then one quarter turn. So far...so good.

Thanks to those who helped.
now please see my other thread on replacing taps in DIY........
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Old Mar 13, 2015 | 11:49 AM
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Thats way I did it for bath . I can't imagine how they managed before flex fits

I was struggling to do up compression fits on taps at arms length as it was. ( corner fit bath ,taps half way down long side)
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Old Mar 13, 2015 | 02:13 PM
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From: Rl'yeh
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This one would have been impossible without flex. I couldn't even SEE them when in place.
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