hi guys my check light came on tonigh and engine cut out so restarted it, 5 seconds later check light again then slowly dies out. for about a week now ive noticed when i slow down a dip the clutch it struggles on the rpm to stay alive and sumtimes the ceck light would come on for 1 min or so.

is this the maff playing up.
and comments would be great

 

check the error codes stored, so much quicker then a crystal ball.

 

also its holding back a little on pull away

 

my code reader wont work on my car??? keeps saying fail

 

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good reply stig

 

whats that steve i cant read brail

 

It's the only reply needed.

If you have a 98 wagon, it has on board diagnostics built into the car, no need for a code reader.

Use the search

 

Get your head in the drivers foot well with a torch.

Look up towards the top of the steering column.

You will find 2 black connectors and 2 green connectors, and one larger black one that has a jumper wire coming from it.

Connect the 2black connectors together, then put ignition on.

It will flash the engine check light, long flash -10s, short flash 1s.

For example one long and one short would give you code 11 .

Come back with the code

 

cheers bud ill go have a gander and get back to ya

 

hiya its doing 2 long flashes and 3 short ones

 

so 23???

i cant find an error code that is that number

here have a look on this

this has a list of the error codes
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1711747

 

theres a 123...

throttle position sensor....might be worth a look as that sounds like yr syptoms???

 

or a 223...

which again is throttle position sensor

 

sorry its more like 2 short 1 sec burts then 3 fast bursts
hope that helps

 

yeah u maybe fite mate mabe me being a dick

sounds like maf or tps
clean it or bin it?

 

strange thing is when it was doing it i unpluged the maff fired it up and it ticked over.... just then left it running plugged maf back in and all is well atm?

 

I'd personally try cleaning it mate. Just don't touch the glass part if the sensor tho.

 

glass part? were is it located in the middle of the maifold?

 

just took it out and under 2,500 rpm its hlding back kinda cutting out and when u floor it it takes off? driving me mad no check light tho?

 

any ideas guys? im gona burn it in the min

 

Sorry , had to nip out for a bit.

23 I believe is maf sensor

 

there isent a 23 on thank link?

 

http://www.jollygreenmonster.com/error_codes.asp.htm


There is on this one matey

 

top man

so holding back under 3000rpm fluctuating at idle u rekon is the maff?
cos when i fired it up with maff unplugged then plugged it back in the engine changed note. meaning it works? people are saying if it dosent make a changed its -ucked?

 

Not sure without looking at the car myself.

But.....

The car itself is telling you mate

Try re-setting ( procedure on the same link)

Then pull the codes again

 

true so if i uplug the maf the check light will come on but will it drive better untill replaced or will it overboost etc and blow her to bits?

 

Don't drive un plugged fella, as far as I know that will screw it right up, if I'm wrong someone will correct me shortly

Then again maybe they won't, as we're in members gallery! Lol

 

thats true. i thought if u unplug the maf the ecu would set itself basic mode? i had the same problem with my saab areo maf was playing up summit rotten so i unplugged it and drove it. it had a stage 3 tune but all it done was set it back to standerd boost
wouldent pull a skin off a rice pudding!!

 

Definitely sounds like maf. But don't be fooled a failing maf doesn't always give a fault code, and you may only have had the code stored on the ecu, because you unplugged the maf. I had same problem. Massive running issues after restart when warm. Had no fault codes but was maf. Got a 2nd Hans one and job done. All sorted and running fine.