dave2006

basically i have a really annoying noise when locking the car, as if it is locking then unlocking lot's of times really quickly. This has been annoying the bejaysus out of me so I decided to fix it. I replaced the door lock, like a fool thinking this was the problem. when i put everything back together the same problem ensues.
I still have the door in bits and i think the problem is the little motor below the door lock (on the right hand side). Does anyone know if this is easy to replace - it doesn't seem to have normal electrical connectors anywhere i can see.
ps it's the drivers side door on a MY98 wagon
thanks in advance

10bats

are you locking it by remote or with the key? the answer to that question will help to tell you which door is at fault.

dave2006

I'm using the fob to lock the door

10bats

probably the drivers door then, inside the motor there is a micro switch, first try leathering the mechanism and motor in wd40 then work the lock and unlock mechanism a bit.
If it is not too far gone it will start to work again.

dave2006

Cheers for the reply, I'll have a go tonight. I have replaced the whole mechanism though and it still makes the crazy noise, do you know what the black box below the lock mechanism is? It has a Rod connected to it and it seems to be the noisy part of the set up.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Solenoid. Sounds as if it's not latching. Can you remove and strip it?

dave2006

What's involved with stripping it? I can see a black case that looks like it could be opened?

dave2006

bit of an update, had a look at the 'black box' it contains a motor that pushes a rod backwards and then returns - it seems that this is the part making the noise. a quick look on-line and i found the makers website 'spal automotive' they can supply a replacement unit. my problem is this: is it worth changing this part or is it more likely that it is a problem with the control unit (i think this is situated in the passenger foot well)?
thanks for the reply(s) 10 bats and alcazar

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Could be either.
Have you a circuit tester containing a bulb?
Like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DRAPER-125...item2c59a13ded

Or just a bulb and two wires?

Disconnect the black box, place the c/t across it's feed wires and see what happens to the bulb.
If it is steady on or off, it's the solenoid at fault.
If the bulb flickers, or lights dim, it's more likely the control.

10bats

solenoid on way out, is it 2 wire or 5 wire. should be 2 wire, i got about 10 of em brand new.

dave2006

I'll get my multi meter out, I take it I'm looking for a constant voltage. Will it be 12v? If the control unit is dodgy is it a major job?
Thanks again

10bats

will only pulse 12v on lock and unlock, it will swop the polarity between the 2 wires.
both wires will rest at 0 volts and 1 will pulse 12v on lock
both wires will rest at 0 volts and the other wire will pulse 12v on unlock

dave2006

update - checked the solenoid and it was the faulty part, after much fiddling inside a freezing door i managed to replace and put all the rods back in place, just wanted to say thanks for the help boys

dave

funkmasterjay

Hello mate.
How easy was it to remove/replace the solenoid?

Many thanks.

J